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Old 02-04-2004, 06:39 AM   #3871
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
We race in car park tracks a lot here and if down-under car parks are anything like the ones here then it'll be dusty with low grip.

Try your stock set-up first but if the track is technical, lock your one-way into a solid.
S&S

Dusty and low grip sounds exactly like our track, it is technical.
I usually drive with a oneway, what difference will a locked oneway have besides giving me more brake? Will I lose some turn into corners?

Thanks
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Old 02-04-2004, 09:28 AM   #3872
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Did some adjustments with the car tonight after I notice the ride height from the suspensions are off. So I took off the rear sway bars before I proceeded. This is how I measure my ride height(actually to make sure both arms are the same height) for both front and rear since I dont have a tool for that now. What I do is take my Hudy wrench and stick it in the screw to see how far it goes in. Then I take a color tape and mark it on the stick to see how deep it goes in. I do that to the other side as well. Then I do the same for the front and rear. I can just tell by eye balling it very close. I lift the car up first at the front and both wheels are the exact same height from the groung, I did the same for the rear and its perfect This is what I do to check the preload of the springs. For all 4 shocks I put the car on all four wheels and turn the aluminum collar so that the springs have barely any play, not much but enough to twist the springs around easily. That way I know that they have pretty much the same preload so incase there is adjustments that needed, its not that far off. So when I do the lifting( to see which wheel lifts up first)technique its much easier to adjust from there.
So right now the car ride height is all good, and ready to go. Then I lift the front to see which wheel lifts first, did some spring adjustments as well and everything seems to work fine. The rear had no problems as well, very quick adjustment (about half a turn) and all good.
Now here is the problem, I then installed my rear sway bars and checked the links and rods that connect to the sway bars to make sure both are the same lenght and distance. When the sway bar is connected the car is tweaked. The height for the rear arms are not the same! Put the car down and lifted the front to see which wheel lifts up first and what do you know, its tweaked! I didnt bother checking the rear to see which wheels lifts first since the arms were not even. So without the rear sway bar the car is perfect but when its connected its tweaked.

Does anyone have any idea as to what I am doing wrong or what else I might have missed out?
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Old 02-04-2004, 10:08 AM   #3873
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With the links unhooked, check to see if the sway bar moves freely.
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Old 02-04-2004, 10:20 AM   #3874
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How come I never thought of that! (doh!)

Well its moves up and down fine but when I lift it up it doesnt frop down by itself. So I guess it doesnt move freely as it should be. I did loosen the 4 screws on top that holds the sway bar down but it still stays up, it helped a bit. I dont think it has anything to do with the screws. Should I put some kind of grease on it or is there something inside that gap I dont know about
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Old 02-04-2004, 12:03 PM   #3875
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
How come I never thought of that! (doh!)

Well its moves up and down fine but when I lift it up it doesnt frop down by itself. So I guess it doesnt move freely as it should be. I did loosen the 4 screws on top that holds the sway bar down but it still stays up, it helped a bit. I dont think it has anything to do with the screws. Should I put some kind of grease on it or is there something inside that gap I dont know about
No don't use grease.
If the tweak is off when you attach the sway bar, just adjust the links. Make one side a little longer until the tweak is gone. Don't worry if one need to be a little longer, that's why they are adjustable
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Old 02-04-2004, 03:27 PM   #3876
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
I did loosen the 4 screws on top that holds the sway bar down but it still stays up, it helped a bit. I dont think it has anything to do with the screws.
It did make a difference.
When it still new, i need to loosen about 1/4-1/2 turn from full tighten to make the bar move freely.
Tighten a bit more when you readjust the suspension.
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Old 02-04-2004, 04:56 PM   #3877
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Default Buying info...

Hey guys,

I figured I would ask all of you for your opinion on this car thus far. I'm possibly thinking about running this car for this coming season. How is everything going so far? Performance? Parts availabilty? Prices for parts? cheap or expensive? durabilty? any problems with the car? Any extra parts needed to make it compeition ready?

I used to run serpent a few years ago (Impact 235mm), but stayed away from serpent after that experience. Parts where way too expensive ($10 for one dog bone, I can buy a pack of two dog bones for my mugen 1/8 for $10) and parts were also hard to get at times. Back ordered from serpent. Then they go away on vacation at times, etc. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!

thanks,
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Old 02-04-2004, 06:32 PM   #3878
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
So there is no difference in PPM and PCM except that PCM has failsafe?
PCM is slower than normal FM (or PPM like Futaba calls it) and HRS (also runs in normal FM mode). The reason is because PCM employs some kind of parity checking and it is more secure than HRS and PPM mode.
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Old 02-04-2004, 06:33 PM   #3879
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Regarding a receiver

Quote:
Originally posted by Schrijver99
No PCM , it has SUPER HIGH RESPONSE and PPM mode.
The SUPER HIGH RESPONSE is not the same as HRS from Futaba, so you can only use PPM if you have a Futaba transmitter.
The LRP reciever is made by Kopropo.
Oh and both will fit fine in the 710.
Thanks for the info Schrijver99.
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Old 02-04-2004, 06:36 PM   #3880
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Basically he was trying to make the diff working just like the xray diff. With 100% lock the diff is still very smooth and with no oil/grease inside the ball.
Thanks for the tip GoldFinger. It looks like a little tedious. Besides making the diff very smooth with no oil and grease inside, what other advantages does the tip / mod you mentioned do to your current diff?

I'm actually very pleased with the current diff I'm having. Still very smooth and no gritty feeling.
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Old 02-04-2004, 06:46 PM   #3881
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Default Re: Buying info...

Quote:
Originally posted by JCB
How is everything going so far? Performance? Parts availabilty? Prices for parts? cheap or expensive? durabilty? any problems with the car? Any extra parts needed to make it compeition ready?
Hi JCB, everything about the car is great. Even though the car is new, I find that parts support are pretty OK. Prices when compared to older cars are relatively cheaper. Durability? It is not as durable as say the Impact or the older Impulse / 705 but it does take a beating to a certain extent.

All in all, I cannot say that this is the be all and end off of cars. All cars are without fault.

Do you have any 710 running at your local track? Perhaps it is better if you see for yourself the car in person and evaluate it with your own eyes.

Quote:
Originally posted by JCB
I used to run serpent a few years ago (Impact 235mm), but stayed away from serpent after that experience.
I do think that parts support nowadays have generally improved. But if it is still like that where you are, I sincerely suggest you consider the car that has the best support parts wise from the LHS or from the trackside in terms of technical support. My 2 cents.
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Old 02-04-2004, 07:05 PM   #3882
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InitialD,

Thanks again for your info and honesty. I'm dying to see the car in person, but everyone around here runs Mugen, G4, and a handul of NTC3. That's all. I'll continue to read what everyone else has to add.

THANKS!
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Old 02-04-2004, 07:44 PM   #3883
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Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
No don't use grease.
If the tweak is off when you attach the sway bar, just adjust the links. Make one side a little longer until the tweak is gone. Don't worry if one need to be a little longer, that's why they are adjustable
When you say link, do you mean the rod with the ball cup or adjust it where it attaches to the sway bar(farther in)?
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Old 02-04-2004, 07:44 PM   #3884
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Default rear diff

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD

As for the rear diff, I notice that when the diff is cold, it gives a very tight setting. When the car comes in after a few good rounds, I notice that the diff will be slightly looser but then it stays constant. Just thought that people should notice this when checking diff settings of other cars...
I notice the same thing with the rear diff.
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Old 02-04-2004, 08:01 PM   #3885
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Default Re: Re: Re: Tweak

Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
In the 710 the cam that "untweaks" the front sway bar effects downstop. So I set downstop then I connect the front sway bar (still on Hudy blocks) and mess around with the cam and downstop screws till droop is equal and both sides have te same play on the sway bar.

There is always a little play on the bar so make sure whether you lift the left or the right arm both sides create the same movement on the other arm.

Then I connect the shocks and tweak the car using the lifting method.
With the sway bar connected my right arm can move up almost a mm before affecting the left arm. The left arm has a more direct effect on the right. You're saying to play around with the droop and cam so both sides react the same way? I also see the same thing with my rear arms/sway bar but I couldn't figure out to fix this.

So you check the front tweak with the sway bars connected? Clmbia45 made the same suggestion which I thought was a good idea
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