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Old 02-03-2004, 09:43 AM   #3841
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Pit ... you need to be legal? Apparently there were great results achieved at the recent Serpent Asia Challenge with the TP06 (both kinds - EFRA and Outlaw versions). I think someone mentioned that GrandMaster MS used it on his S3 based KHM with great zooooooom!
Yes, the TP06 with Nova based engines really had zoom. I believe this is the same pipe as the Novarossi 52607 pipe.
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Old 02-03-2004, 09:52 AM   #3842
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Default Re: Tweak

Quote:
Originally posted by kreidel
I know this has been answered but I have to ask myself so bear with me. I just setup my car and set the tweak before I hooked up both swaybars and upon doing so it is off now.So ultimatley I am going to set tweak according to whether or not I am using my swaybars? I mean the end result is to have a car's tweak perfect they way I plan on running it correct?
Ummm, this is my 2 cents... The car should be tweak free 1) before putting the shocks on 2) after putting the shocks on and 3) after putting the sway bars on !

Before the shocks are on, the chassis should be flat and the droop screws should be set equal left and right. After the shocks are on, it should still remain tweak free because the shocks should be set the same rebound and length left and right. Lastly when the sway bars are on, it should also be tweak free.

If you need to tweak the chassis to get it to tweak free after putting shocks or after putting the sway bars, I guess the end result should be OK but there's definelty something wrong.
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Old 02-03-2004, 10:01 AM   #3843
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Default Re: Re: Tweak

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Ummm, this is my 2 cents... The car should be tweak free 1) before putting the shocks on 2) after putting the shocks on and 3) after putting the sway bars on !

Before the shocks are on, the chassis should be flat and the droop screws should be set equal left and right. After the shocks are on, it should still remain tweak free because the shocks should be set the same rebound and length left and right. Lastly when the sway bars are on, it should also be tweak free.

If you need to tweak the chassis to get it to tweak free after putting shocks or after putting the sway bars, I guess the end result should be OK but there's definelty something wrong.
In the 710 the cam that "untweaks" the front sway bar effects downstop. So I set downstop then I connect the front sway bar (still on Hudy blocks) and mess around with the cam and downstop screws till droop is equal and both sides have te same play on the sway bar.

There is always a little play on the bar so make sure whether you lift the left or the right arm both sides create the same movement on the other arm.

Then I connect the shocks and tweak the car using the lifting method.
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Old 02-03-2004, 10:15 AM   #3844
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
Also, sory D, I did not agree with this one.. longer amrs does not makes less or more of camber change.. the angle does
Actually it's both. At a given angle, a shorter upper arm will give more camber change as the suspension moves.
At a given length, more angle will give more change.
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Old 02-03-2004, 10:21 AM   #3845
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Default Re: Re: Re: Tweak

Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
So I set downstop then I connect the front sway bar (still on Hudy blocks) and mess around with the cam and downstop screws till droop is equal and both sides have te same play on the sway bar.
So what you're saying that you still play with the droop screws AFTER putting the sway bars on and playing with the cam? When you set to 0 droop in front and with the sway bar you get to -1, you reset the droop screws to 0 again or do you use the droop screws with the aid the adjusting cam to get same droop left and right? I guess you only do this in the front and not the rear?

Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
Then I connect the shocks and tweak the car using the lifting method.
So the order should be set droop without shocks and sway bar, put sway bar and check droop and then put shocks and check tweak with the lifting method?

I put shocks on first and do the lifting method after setting droop. I put the sway bars on later and do the lifting method. I hope there's nothing wrong with this order.
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Old 02-03-2004, 11:16 AM   #3846
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Tweak

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
So what you're saying that you still play with the droop screws AFTER putting the sway bars on and playing with the cam? When you set to 0 droop in front and with the sway bar you get to -1, you reset the droop screws to 0 again or do you use the droop screws with the aid the adjusting cam to get same droop left and right? I guess you only do this in the front and not the rear?
The thing is, if you change the cam setting, the droop on that side changes.

Quote:
So the order should be set droop without shocks and sway bar, put sway bar and check droop and then put shocks and check tweak with the lifting method?

I put shocks on first and do the lifting method after setting droop. I put the sway bars on later and do the lifting method. I hope there's nothing wrong with this order.
"Your" order has a chance of making an uneven droop when the sway bar is slightly off.

I thought of a good way to do this:
- Connect the sway bar. Set droop using the screw for te right side of the suspension only. Measure on the right side.
- If the right side is correctly set fo droop, use the cam of the sway bar to set left side droop. In theory the left side droop should be set a fraction lower to compensate for play in the sway bar (no more than 0.2mm so it's not really important).
- Then by sliding the sway bar in it's holde disconnect the sway bar.
- Now set the left side droop screw to the same droop as the right.
- Reconnect the sway bar.

Now droop is equal and the sway bar is aligned.

Then set tweak using the lifting method.
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Old 02-03-2004, 11:44 AM   #3847
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I've tried the lifting method now and it is actually pretty easy to do I haven't tested the car on the circuit yet, but hopefully I've got everything correct now.

Before you lift the car, do you press down on the suspension, to settle it?

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 02-03-2004, 12:11 PM   #3848
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 710

Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
I made it slightly shorter than in the book. I made it around 42mm. To do so I used a plain m3 threaded rod. Then you can use the ball joints unmodified and thread them on till they touch each other. You'll have the correct lenght then.
Thanks for that Julius.

I must admit I'm really impressed with the kit so far, Serpent really have pulled all the stops out on this one and it really does exude quality, the fit and finish is second to none, just waiting on my radio gear now so that I can finish it.
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Old 02-03-2004, 12:47 PM   #3849
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Default Regarding a receiver

Hi Guys,

I use a really nice, small rx unit for my EVO III Surikarn (LRP Phaser Competition) - is this also a good choice for a 710? On my 705 I use a Futaba unit, but as the LRP is so small, I thought I may go for one of those.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 02-03-2004, 01:41 PM   #3850
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Originally posted by dino.tw
Nice to see you,too. Yesterday is my lucky day. I got A 3rd. Kakaka......
good job Dino
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Old 02-03-2004, 01:59 PM   #3851
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Pit ... you need to be legal? Apparently there were great results achieved at the recent Serpent Asia Challenge with the TP06 (both kinds - EFRA and Outlaw versions). I think someone mentioned that GrandMaster MS used it on his S3 based KHM with great zooooooom!
Yes,I need a legal pipe.I'll be doing the SWCS races here in Tx. and will be going to the sedan nats. I just couldn't get away for the W'nats.
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Old 02-03-2004, 02:03 PM   #3852
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Originally posted by Pit-racer
Yes,I need a legal pipe.I'll be doing the SWCS races here in Tx. and will be going to the sedan nats. I just couldn't get away for the W'nats. TP06?
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Old 02-03-2004, 04:16 PM   #3853
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Tweak

Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
The thing is, if you change the cam setting, the droop on that side changes....

I thought of a good way to do this:
- Connect the sway bar. Set droop using the screw for te right side of the suspension only. Measure on the right side.
- If the right side is correctly set fo droop, use the cam of the sway bar to set left side droop. In theory the left side droop should be set a fraction lower to compensate for play in the sway bar (no more than 0.2mm so it's not really important).
- Then by sliding the sway bar in it's holde disconnect the sway bar.
- Now set the left side droop screw to the same droop as the right.
- Reconnect the sway bar.

Now droop is equal and the sway bar is aligned.

Then set tweak using the lifting method.
THAT'S A GREAT IDEA! It'll stop all that fiddling around. Thanks.
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Old 02-03-2004, 06:00 PM   #3854
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
I've tried the lifting method now and it is actually pretty easy to do I haven't tested the car on the circuit yet, but hopefully I've got everything correct now.

Before you lift the car, do you press down on the suspension, to settle it?

Cheers, Mark.
Your suppose to drop your car a few cm off the ground before you do the lift method.
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Old 02-03-2004, 07:22 PM   #3855
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pit-racer
Yes,I need a legal pipe.I'll be doing the SWCS races here in Tx. and will be going to the sedan nats. I just couldn't get away for the W'nats.
There are two versions of the TP06 (likewise for the new Novarossi pipe). The legal and outlaw one.

I would think the one that ran on Michael's car in Thailand was pretty legal in every sense. Pipe and 3 port engine !
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