Serpent 710
#3721
Originally posted by Doug Darby
Yeah.. too neat.. I am almost embarrassed by it. I got rained out racing last Saturday, and as All the cars were ready, and packed for racing I dedided to spend about 5 hours cleaning shop. What you see is the result.
Yeah.. too neat.. I am almost embarrassed by it. I got rained out racing last Saturday, and as All the cars were ready, and packed for racing I dedided to spend about 5 hours cleaning shop. What you see is the result.
#3722
Originally posted by Doug Darby
I did try rotating the cam through about 120 degrees in about 4 different steps and it didn't seem to make any difference. But I think you are on to something here and I will try starting with no sway bar and then working the cam again to see what I find.
Thanks
I did try rotating the cam through about 120 degrees in about 4 different steps and it didn't seem to make any difference. But I think you are on to something here and I will try starting with no sway bar and then working the cam again to see what I find.
Thanks
#3723
Originally posted by Julius
The problem with a tweak board is that both sides of the car
are "hanging in the springs".
Now the car is perfect on the tweak board with the rear end in the
fixed part. Now turn the left rear shock collar harder. This will make
the chassis roll to the right. As up front nothing has changed the
movable beam will roll to the right as well, thus showing tweak.
Now turn the left front spring harder and the movable part will roll
back to the left. No tweak but not a perfect chassis...
Just try it.
The problem with a tweak board is that both sides of the car
are "hanging in the springs".
Now the car is perfect on the tweak board with the rear end in the
fixed part. Now turn the left rear shock collar harder. This will make
the chassis roll to the right. As up front nothing has changed the
movable beam will roll to the right as well, thus showing tweak.
Now turn the left front spring harder and the movable part will roll
back to the left. No tweak but not a perfect chassis...
Just try it.
I have a slightly off topic question: With my Tamiya Surikarn, most of the weight (due to the battery arrangement) is on the left hand side of the car. I tweak the car so that the tweak station shows that both sides are balanced, but looking at the chassis, I see one side higher than the other, due to the greater weight of the batteries.
This is also relevant for those who haven't got a prefect left-right weight distribution, which without the addition of some weight to the car, is normally the case.
Am I tweaking my electric car incorrectly?
Cheers, Mark.
#3724
Originally posted by markp27
Now I see what you mean! Hmm, interesting.
I have a slightly off topic question: With my Tamiya Surikarn, most of the weight (due to the battery arrangement) is on the left hand side of the car. I tweak the car so that the tweak station shows that both sides are balanced, but looking at the chassis, I see one side higher than the other, due to the greater weight of the batteries.
This is also relevant for those who haven't got a prefect left-right weight distribution, which without the addition of some weight to the car, is normally the case.
Am I tweaking my electric car incorrectly?
Cheers, Mark.
Now I see what you mean! Hmm, interesting.
I have a slightly off topic question: With my Tamiya Surikarn, most of the weight (due to the battery arrangement) is on the left hand side of the car. I tweak the car so that the tweak station shows that both sides are balanced, but looking at the chassis, I see one side higher than the other, due to the greater weight of the batteries.
This is also relevant for those who haven't got a prefect left-right weight distribution, which without the addition of some weight to the car, is normally the case.
Am I tweaking my electric car incorrectly?
Cheers, Mark.
Also on your electric you can use the pick it up in the middle technique.
#3725
Originally posted by Julius
There is a way to use a tweak board come to think of it. You'd need to set the chassis on the fixed beam. That way you'd have a flat and fixed reference. You need a non worn chassis though.
There is a way to use a tweak board come to think of it. You'd need to set the chassis on the fixed beam. That way you'd have a flat and fixed reference. You need a non worn chassis though.
After doing this, I then remove the Hudy Block and adjust the tweak for the front and rear once more.
And finally, I connect the sway bars and adjust their length (or the cam thing) until the tweak is once more level.
Do you mean, that it would be better to always tweak with the block underneath one end of the car?
Cheers, Mark.
#3726
It's absolutely true... I guess thats way the laser tweak station would never be a hot item, buble one still more self convidenced and make us more to believe
But I prefer without it
Another note: have not done any maintenance on my S710 since its first race meeting (with some practices and engine tuning) except... cleanning the car and engine that takes about 30 minutes top (include removing the upper deck). Everything still turns smoothly. This is what I called a FUN SPORT
Will inspect on all moving parts after the upcoming second race and see how forgiving it is on maintenance.
But I prefer without it
Another note: have not done any maintenance on my S710 since its first race meeting (with some practices and engine tuning) except... cleanning the car and engine that takes about 30 minutes top (include removing the upper deck). Everything still turns smoothly. This is what I called a FUN SPORT
Will inspect on all moving parts after the upcoming second race and see how forgiving it is on maintenance.
#3727
Yiiiiiiipppppeeeeeeeeeeeeee! My 710 has just arrived.
What would you guys recommend out of the following servos for steering duties.
KoPropo PS-2113 FET or PS-2123 Digital.
Futaba 9402 or S9350
Sanwa ERG-VB or ERG-VR.
I fancied the Sanwa ERG-VB, but been advised that it may be a bit overkill on the 1/10th, my LHS is selling all these around the same price bracket.
Cheers Guys
What would you guys recommend out of the following servos for steering duties.
KoPropo PS-2113 FET or PS-2123 Digital.
Futaba 9402 or S9350
Sanwa ERG-VB or ERG-VR.
I fancied the Sanwa ERG-VB, but been advised that it may be a bit overkill on the 1/10th, my LHS is selling all these around the same price bracket.
Cheers Guys
#3728
I never have luck either with KO or Sanwa servos, they all seems to generate noise which make it always unsteady (I tried until 2123/43 and ERG-WR I believe and it was on my electric cars).. I would always go with Futaba
#3729
Originally posted by Diesel Racer
Yiiiiiiipppppeeeeeeeeeeeeee! My 710 has just arrived.
What would you guys recommend out of the following servos for steering duties.
KoPropo PS-2113 FET or PS-2123 Digital.
Futaba 9402 or S9350
Sanwa ERG-VB or ERG-VR.
I fancied the Sanwa ERG-VB, but been advised that it may be a bit overkill on the 1/10th, my LHS is selling all these around the same price bracket.
Cheers Guys
Yiiiiiiipppppeeeeeeeeeeeeee! My 710 has just arrived.
What would you guys recommend out of the following servos for steering duties.
KoPropo PS-2113 FET or PS-2123 Digital.
Futaba 9402 or S9350
Sanwa ERG-VB or ERG-VR.
I fancied the Sanwa ERG-VB, but been advised that it may be a bit overkill on the 1/10th, my LHS is selling all these around the same price bracket.
Cheers Guys
Its suppose to be the fastest speed contoller
Thats what im using on my 710
#3730
Originally posted by markp27
Ehm
You're right
But I don't touch anything to do with MS! WAIT, I didn't mean Lord MS
Greetings from your Windows free zone!
Ehm
You're right
But I don't touch anything to do with MS! WAIT, I didn't mean Lord MS
Greetings from your Windows free zone!
Since the machine at work is free .. . I can't complain too much
#3732
Originally posted by Julius
For any all wheel independant suspension car the tweak board is not handy because of the reasons in my earlier posts. A tweak board is handy on pan (solid rear axle) cars.
Also on your electric you can use the pick it up in the middle technique.
For any all wheel independant suspension car the tweak board is not handy because of the reasons in my earlier posts. A tweak board is handy on pan (solid rear axle) cars.
Also on your electric you can use the pick it up in the middle technique.
If I first of all tweak the front and rear by placing the Hudy Block underneath the opposite end of the car to which I'm tweaking, I will know that the front and rear are independantly tweaked, and I can be sure that when the right front is too lightly loaded, then I must create more tension on the left rear and less on the right rear. i.e. I would have a known starting point and would end up with a balanced car??
Would this not work as well as the lifting method?
Cheers, Mark.
#3733
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Welcome to the club mark! I'll MacOS X, I'll do Jaguar, I'll do Linux and anything else to keep me away from windooooze except of course, on the work machine
Since the machine at work is free .. . I can't complain too much
Welcome to the club mark! I'll MacOS X, I'll do Jaguar, I'll do Linux and anything else to keep me away from windooooze except of course, on the work machine
Since the machine at work is free .. . I can't complain too much
Well in my Computer Centre here at home, I've got two Sun Ultras, two Linux XPs and two Mac laptops - bliss
A mixture for my photo work and my programming work.
Cheers, Mark.
#3735
Originally posted by Julius
There is a way to use a tweak board come to think of it. You'd need to set the chassis on the fixed beam. That way you'd have a flat and fixed reference. You need a non worn chassis though.
There is a way to use a tweak board come to think of it. You'd need to set the chassis on the fixed beam. That way you'd have a flat and fixed reference. You need a non worn chassis though.
By fixed beam, you mean the rear beam of say ... the Speedmind Tweak Station?
I think that's what is meant to do isn't it?



