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Old 02-16-2004, 10:39 AM   #4471
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Originally posted by cyba888
Is it safe to charge my tx batteries if I connect the wires to my Tekin charger while its in the remote socket? Look at attached files. Usually when the charger is NOT connected to the wall I get a volt reading when its connected to the batteries. But when I tested this method out I didnt get a reading. Do I need to charge it first to see if it will actually charge without damaging my radio?
You probably wont be able to charge the pack through the radio because futaba uses diodes in their radios. The diode affects charging when using a fast or peak charger. What i did when i had that radio was buy an 8 cell holder from jr and charge them in the holder. Hope this helps
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Old 02-16-2004, 10:42 AM   #4472
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MAn I need to get a tire truer? That stuff aint cheap!
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Old 02-16-2004, 11:02 AM   #4473
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
MAn I need to get a tire truer? That stuff aint cheap!
Don't take this as critic, but Nitro cars are an expensive hobby, tyres get worn out quick; crashes put a hole in your pocket and you suddenly find that to really get the most out of the cars you have to invest a lot of money.

If you can afford it, then go for a tyre truer, then you can start to size yours tyres with differential between front and back, so that they wear at an even rate. Otherwise, you'll have to have a number of tyres (used) which you can choose from to get the right sizes which you need.

Perhaps InitialD (or the other knowlegable guys) can give us a little lesson in tyre sizes (split ratios etc) which I can put into the FAQ for future reference.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 02-16-2004, 11:09 AM   #4474
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
Is it safe to charge my tx batteries if I connect the wires to my Tekin charger while its in the remote socket? Look at attached files. Usually when the charger is NOT connected to the wall I get a volt reading when its connected to the batteries. But when I tested this method out I didnt get a reading. Do I need to charge it first to see if it will actually charge without damaging my radio?
I wouldn't like to say on this one - possibly, but I don't want you blowing up that nice TX unit!!!

Best of all go to your local hobby shop and ask them.

Do you know what the output of the charger is? Voltage and Current rating?
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Old 02-16-2004, 11:36 AM   #4475
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Default 710 FAQ

Just added a couple of things and need clarification from Julius about his tweaking method.

Please give comments, suggestions where you think anything is inacurate.

Cheers, Mark.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 710faq.pdf (183.2 KB, 189 views)
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Old 02-16-2004, 01:49 PM   #4476
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I know it is kinda late to just started to build the 710 (with 6" of snow outside, there is no reason to think NITRO at all)....but after trying to help my friend to setup his 710, I found there are 2 problems that I am not sure what to do, and hope you guys can give me some direction.

#1 question.....It happened on STEP 9.2, 2-speed gearbox, the 2nd gear housing cannot spin freely (compare to the old 2-speed gearbox)....from what I am seeing, it is because the PIN (P13) within the 2-speed housing is TIGHT pushed to the (V5) flange bearing due to the setscrew (H11) compressed toward the PIN (P13) inside the 2-speed shaft....my question is...what is the function of that set screw (H11) inside...? If I tighen it to lock tight that pin, my 2-speed flange bearing (V5) is rubbing again that pin and CANNOT spin freely (I know it suppose to spin freely like the old 2-speed)....so I removed that setscrew (H11), pin is no longer pushing against the bearing and the housing can spin freely at last....but then, what is the function on that set screws? To prevent the pin flow out after removing the 2-speed clutch..? Or should I ask...do I need that screw or do I need to tighten that against the pin? There is no direction on the manual about that set screw....I assumed I have to tighten it to the PIN, but that does not make the 2nd gear spin freely like the manual said...

The another solution is....that silver spaced in front of the 2nd gear need to shave about 1/2mm or so on order to give some space between the 2nd gear and that pin even in lock tight position, but I am not going to do that untill someone or Serpent said so....

#2 question.......again, 2-speed gear housing....there are 3 holes drilled in angles for the clutch springs adjustment.....is that true that only TOOLS can use to adjust all 3 of those screws are the kit L-shape allen wrentch..? Does the HUDY tool works? All I know is my orignial tools, the tip is not longer enough to reach the screws and the shaft itself is too big for the angled holes.....

And last...WHY angled, and why so small....

Overall, I missed the old 2-speed gear box....seems like more bullet proved and more easy to adjust.
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Old 02-16-2004, 02:43 PM   #4477
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I know it is kinda late to just started to build the 710 (with 6" of snow outside, there is no reason to think NITRO at all)....but after trying to help my friend to setup his 710, I found there are 2 problems that I am not sure what to do, and hope you guys can give me some direction.

#1 question.....It happened on STEP 9.2, 2-speed gearbox, the 2nd gear housing cannot spin freely (compare to the old 2-speed gearbox)....from what I am seeing, it is because the PIN (P13) within the 2-speed housing is TIGHT pushed to the (V5) flange bearing due to the setscrew (H11) compressed toward the PIN (P13) inside the 2-speed shaft....my question is...what is the function of that set screw (H11) inside...? If I tighen it to lock tight that pin, my 2-speed flange bearing (V5) is rubbing again that pin and CANNOT spin freely (I know it suppose to spin freely like the old 2-speed)....so I removed that setscrew (H11), pin is no longer pushing against the bearing and the housing can spin freely at last....but then, what is the function on that set screws? To prevent the pin flow out after removing the 2-speed clutch..? Or should I ask...do I need that screw or do I need to tighten that against the pin? There is no direction on the manual about that set screw....I assumed I have to tighten it to the PIN, but that does not make the 2nd gear spin freely like the manual said...

The another solution is....that silver spaced in front of the 2nd gear need to shave about 1/2mm or so on order to give some space between the 2nd gear and that pin even in lock tight position, but I am not going to do that untill someone or Serpent said so....

#2 question.......again, 2-speed gear housing....there are 3 holes drilled in angles for the clutch springs adjustment.....is that true that only TOOLS can use to adjust all 3 of those screws are the kit L-shape allen wrentch..? Does the HUDY tool works? All I know is my orignial tools, the tip is not longer enough to reach the screws and the shaft itself is too big for the angled holes.....

And last...WHY angled, and why so small....

Overall, I missed the old 2-speed gear box....seems like more bullet proved and more easy to adjust.
Answer #1 is easy: You need to create a little side play on the 2speed shaft. Just loosen the pulley on the left side of the car and move it outward 0.5mm. That gives the whole axle a little side play and solves also your 2-speed problem.

Answer #2 So small = light = faster acceleration.
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Old 02-16-2004, 02:47 PM   #4478
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Old 02-16-2004, 03:10 PM   #4479
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two speed works great, just lighter.. the holes? i took both off and adjusted out of the car, wht is nice is you can mark the two spped shoes so you can see fromt he outside were the screws go.
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Old 02-16-2004, 06:39 PM   #4480
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Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
Answer #1 is easy: You need to create a little side play on the 2speed shaft. Just loosen the pulley on the left side of the car and move it outward 0.5mm. That gives the whole axle a little side play and solves also your 2-speed problem.

Rookie, after doing what Julius mentioned.. recheck your brake pin clearance (towards 2spd right block)

About "in-place" 2spd adjusment, i found my 710 is better than 705. But if you not satisfied, just take of the e-clip and slide out the 1st gear assy (till hit the rear right tire) then you can adjust it more visually.

I never use (H11) setscrew
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Old 02-16-2004, 06:53 PM   #4481
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
MAn I need to get a tire truer? That stuff aint cheap!
Only If you serious and want to max out your tuning skill.
And like Mark said, this hobby is no cheap already...

Read bellow article, there is a paragraph that describing tire size x drive ratio and how to calculate the overdrive.

These (compilation) article is coming from Bob Ingersoll, Art Carbonell and Michael Salven. And nicely compiled by Mike Meyers
(thanks to all of you guys), I took it from s-grid.com.

Enjoy !
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File Type: zip setup principles.zip (26.7 KB, 85 views)
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Old 02-16-2004, 06:54 PM   #4482
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Quote:
Originally posted by Schrijver99
If you open the feulcap and you can see a hole for a screw at the bottom you have the new one (with brasscollor filter inside).
If you can't see it, you have the old one (705 tank with old white 705 "filter")

I also have the old one and have to use a fuelfilter
My tank has the hole for for decreasing the volume. It comes with the white filter. I'm using an external filter because I've had problems without it.
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Old 02-16-2004, 07:07 PM   #4483
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Quote:
Originally posted by JustRace
My tank has the hole for for decreasing the volume. It comes with the white filter. I'm using an external filter because I've had problems without it.
I have the same tank.
Is the white filter bad?
I always use an external filter anyways.
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Old 02-16-2004, 07:28 PM   #4484
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What do you use to adjust the volume of the tank?
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Old 02-16-2004, 08:00 PM   #4485
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Quote:
Originally posted by PSI Racer
What do you use to adjust the volume of the tank?
Since I was using an external filter at the WinterNats, I was given a warning that my fuel capacity was close. I ended up using two wheel nuts to reduce tank volume. Just use a long screw and secure it to the hole in the tank.
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