Serpent 710
#3708
Originally posted by markp27
D, I'm crumbling!!!! Give me a good reason not to get a 710......QUICK!!!!
D, I'm crumbling!!!! Give me a good reason not to get a 710......QUICK!!!!
The EURO is currently very strong. Send me a PM and see if I can hook you up with one !
#3709
Originally posted by InitialD
Well for starters, if you don't get the 710, you cannot do your HUMOUR_ON, HUMOUR_OFF postings here !
The EURO is currently very strong. Send me a PM and see if I can hook you up with one !
Well for starters, if you don't get the 710, you cannot do your HUMOUR_ON, HUMOUR_OFF postings here !
The EURO is currently very strong. Send me a PM and see if I can hook you up with one !
#3712
To Doug Darby
One more thing to note.. if you measure track width, do not measure from the outmost part of arms to the innermost parts of knuckles (meanning the space in between). Find dead spot somewhere in the chassis as the starting point to the outermost side wall of your knuckles. Let me know what new things you discover by doing it that way..
One more thing to note.. if you measure track width, do not measure from the outmost part of arms to the innermost parts of knuckles (meanning the space in between). Find dead spot somewhere in the chassis as the starting point to the outermost side wall of your knuckles. Let me know what new things you discover by doing it that way..
#3714
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Hey guys, I think we should all post pics of our garages like JABRONI did.
D! How about your garage ... we're dying to see what the Master's garage looks like!
Hey guys, I think we should all post pics of our garages like JABRONI did.
D! How about your garage ... we're dying to see what the Master's garage looks like!
#3715
Originally posted by Pyramid
To Doug Darby
One more thing to note.. if you measure track width, do not measure from the outmost part of arms to the innermost parts of knuckles (meanning the space in between). Find dead spot somewhere in the chassis as the starting point to the outermost side wall of your knuckles. Let me know what new things you discover by doing it that way..
To Doug Darby
One more thing to note.. if you measure track width, do not measure from the outmost part of arms to the innermost parts of knuckles (meanning the space in between). Find dead spot somewhere in the chassis as the starting point to the outermost side wall of your knuckles. Let me know what new things you discover by doing it that way..
#3717
The problem with a tweak board is you have no idea which side of the
car is off!
Lets try this mind experiment: Take a perfectly adjusted car (no tweak)
and set the left front and left rear shock one turn stiffer. On a tweak
board you will see no difference as front and rear are equal, but the
chassis is no longer horizontal.
experiment #2: Take a perfectly adjusted car (no tweak) and set only
the left front shock one turn stiffer. On a tweak board you will see
tweak. If you would turn the left rear shock stiffer the tweak is gone
even though you actually turned the wrong spring.
Using the method of lifting the car on a flat surface (with equal
downstops) gives not only perfect tweak, but also a level chassis!
Remember that tweak boards are made for straight rear axle cars where
you'd normally only adjust the t-plate.
Good thing is: a flat wooden board is a lot cheaper and easier to come
by than a tweak board!
car is off!
Lets try this mind experiment: Take a perfectly adjusted car (no tweak)
and set the left front and left rear shock one turn stiffer. On a tweak
board you will see no difference as front and rear are equal, but the
chassis is no longer horizontal.
experiment #2: Take a perfectly adjusted car (no tweak) and set only
the left front shock one turn stiffer. On a tweak board you will see
tweak. If you would turn the left rear shock stiffer the tweak is gone
even though you actually turned the wrong spring.
Using the method of lifting the car on a flat surface (with equal
downstops) gives not only perfect tweak, but also a level chassis!
Remember that tweak boards are made for straight rear axle cars where
you'd normally only adjust the t-plate.
Good thing is: a flat wooden board is a lot cheaper and easier to come
by than a tweak board!
#3718
There is a way to use a tweak board come to think of it. You'd need to set the chassis on the fixed beam. That way you'd have a flat and fixed reference. You need a non worn chassis though.
#3719
Originally posted by Julius
The problem with a tweak board is you have no idea which side of the
car is off!
Lets try this mind experiment: Take a perfectly adjusted car (no tweak)
and set the left front and left rear shock one turn stiffer. On a tweak
board you will see no difference as front and rear are equal, but the
chassis is no longer horizontal.
experiment #2: Take a perfectly adjusted car (no tweak) and set only
the left front shock one turn stiffer. On a tweak board you will see
tweak. If you would turn the left rear shock stiffer the tweak is gone
even though you actually turned the wrong spring.
Using the method of lifting the car on a flat surface (with equal
downstops) gives not only perfect tweak, but also a level chassis!
Remember that tweak boards are made for straight rear axle cars where
you'd normally only adjust the t-plate.
Good thing is: a flat wooden board is a lot cheaper and easier to come
by than a tweak board!
The problem with a tweak board is you have no idea which side of the
car is off!
Lets try this mind experiment: Take a perfectly adjusted car (no tweak)
and set the left front and left rear shock one turn stiffer. On a tweak
board you will see no difference as front and rear are equal, but the
chassis is no longer horizontal.
experiment #2: Take a perfectly adjusted car (no tweak) and set only
the left front shock one turn stiffer. On a tweak board you will see
tweak. If you would turn the left rear shock stiffer the tweak is gone
even though you actually turned the wrong spring.
Using the method of lifting the car on a flat surface (with equal
downstops) gives not only perfect tweak, but also a level chassis!
Remember that tweak boards are made for straight rear axle cars where
you'd normally only adjust the t-plate.
Good thing is: a flat wooden board is a lot cheaper and easier to come
by than a tweak board!
Is the tweak station not the best solution?
#3720
Originally posted by markp27
This isn't true for the Tweak Station (unless I misunderstood your explination), though - the rear solid bar is checked to be level before use and only the front bar "swings" and indicates if there is a tweak.
Is the tweak station not the best solution?
This isn't true for the Tweak Station (unless I misunderstood your explination), though - the rear solid bar is checked to be level before use and only the front bar "swings" and indicates if there is a tweak.
Is the tweak station not the best solution?
are "hanging in the springs".
Now the car is perfect on the tweak board with the rear end in the
fixed part. Now turn the left rear shock collar harder. This will make
the chassis roll to the right. As up front nothing has changed the
movable beam will roll to the right as well, thus showing tweak.
Now turn the left front spring harder and the movable part will roll
back to the left. No tweak but not a perfect chassis...
Just try it.




What to do? You keep sending me a whole lot of junk !