I read with great interest the 2.3 set up book(VERY nice,btw..)....

and esp the articles on tweak stations....(esp D's.....)...now let me ask you a question.....and you can tell me if I'm wrong.....I'm getting the idea that the typical tweak station is wrong(from the article)........do you want one end of the car on a block with no tires..and lifting the other end?,.....

and has anyone tried the hudy tweak station...(I haven't seen one yet).....and is it the same as a MIP type>,,,,thanks

Try cutting the groove in the head. Soak it with WD 40. You canalways drill it out later.
I don't know why yours did that. I always locktight mine in and havn't had that problem. Maybe "locktight" is "lockloose".

Hi Harry - long time, no see! Glad to hear you like the 2.3 FAQ

The tweak station can mislead you into thinking you have a perfect car, where in fact it can still be tweaked.

The lifting method is only done with all four tyres on the car.
For a tweak station, if you chassis is still flat and straight, then you can put a block under the chassis and tweak the other end.

The Hudy tweak station is very nice, I used one at the winternats. But it does use a similar method to the MIP type, so operates in the same way.
I actually like the fact that you can check you track width with the new hudy station - thats really nice!

Cheers, Mark.

No problems ...

Harry,

If you want to read the full discussion:
http://www.rc-racing.com/cgi-bin/bac...howforgotten=2

That should aswer most of your questions

Julius

I work in the same way. But I do experiment with the front setting in practice to feel where the optimum for the track is.

It is often a combination of both diffs. For example, if you have oversteer on trottle, you could loosen the rear or tighten the front. Both will make the car more stable on throttle.

In other words experiment as a good knowledge of the diffs and how the car changes will give you tools to quickly fine tune the car even in warmup for the race.

I'm rebuilding my car now with the new chassis. Rene and RickV reported the car feeling more planted and easier to drive.

hey guys,does the diff's balls need to be lube???if so,what lube???and does the arms need reaming to make it free from binding???and any pics of the wiring setup????

Use some mugen super grease on the balls...

thanks.another question,how to make sure the diff is built rite???i think i have saw the link but dont remember where.thanks

See mark p's FAQ for the links and info...

here ya go!

Speaking of the grease for all around use. I have found this Molydbenum Disulphide spray Lube at Ace Hardware and used it by spraying it on the balls, diff plates, dog bone tips & wheel axles with a very very good results.

[IMG]Molydbenum Disulphide spray Lube[/IMG]

Redsand....that's good stuff. I've only used it on the dogbones.

At bicycle shops, you can also get a teflon spray used on the chains, and said to last 100 miles in competition. It also drys clear, non-staining. I've used it for years on the dogbones and out drives between major cleanings.

One of the most shear resistant lubricants that I have come across is auto transmission fluid. I think this would work really well at areas where there is high shear like dogbones and gears, etc.

I have yet to try it in r/c though...