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Old 05-15-2005, 07:02 PM   #21466
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I read with great interest the 2.3 set up book(VERY nice,btw..)....

and esp the articles on tweak stations....(esp D's.....)...now let me ask you a question.....and you can tell me if I'm wrong.....I'm getting the idea that the typical tweak station is wrong(from the article)........do you want one end of the car on a block with no tires..and lifting the other end?,.....

and has anyone tried the hudy tweak station...(I haven't seen one yet).....and is it the same as a MIP type>,,,,thanks
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Old 05-15-2005, 08:29 PM   #21467
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Default Re: Help! Engine Screws

Quote:
Originally posted by fulcrum2
Hi there!


I have a serious problem with my engine mount screws (under the chassis) M4x10 #802551

I can´t open two of them. Having them fastened by hand with a Hudy driver and no threadlock a couple of weeks ago, I can´t open two of them with the same driver!
The driver is already broken and the screwheads are badly damaged by now. Here are my questions:

How could this happen? Is the heat of the engine seizing the screws in the chassis?

What can I do to prevent this from happening in the future?

And the most important question, how can I get those screws out?
Drilling? Cut a groove in the head and use a flathead screwdriver? Weld another screw or tool to the heads?

What has worked for you?


Andy advice would be appreciated...
Try cutting the groove in the head. Soak it with WD 40. You canalways drill it out later.
I don't know why yours did that. I always locktight mine in and havn't had that problem. Maybe "locktight" is "lockloose".
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Old 05-15-2005, 11:45 PM   #21468
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
I read with great interest the 2.3 set up book(VERY nice,btw..)....

and esp the articles on tweak stations....(esp D's.....)...now let me ask you a question.....and you can tell me if I'm wrong.....I'm getting the idea that the typical tweak station is wrong(from the article)........do you want one end of the car on a block with no tires..and lifting the other end?,.....

and has anyone tried the hudy tweak station...(I haven't seen one yet).....and is it the same as a MIP type>,,,,thanks
Hi Harry - long time, no see! Glad to hear you like the 2.3 FAQ

The tweak station can mislead you into thinking you have a perfect car, where in fact it can still be tweaked.

The lifting method is only done with all four tyres on the car.
For a tweak station, if you chassis is still flat and straight, then you can put a block under the chassis and tweak the other end.

The Hudy tweak station is very nice, I used one at the winternats. But it does use a similar method to the MIP type, so operates in the same way.
I actually like the fact that you can check you track width with the new hudy station - thats really nice!

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 05-16-2005, 12:41 AM   #21469
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Quote:
Originally posted by RMeira
As i got up the computer and ran to the car.. i tough.. BINGO .. the pins of the brake ... but .. no .. it wasn't them .. they're not touching the rear bulkhead ..

But .. as i was trning the axle with the car in front of me .. i touched the break disk a little .. and it became a lot more easy to turn ..
the break was not engaged... i guess that's because i'm running the axle in my hand. . when i get it running at high speed i guess it won't be a problem, because the break disk will settle better...
Thanks you for your help Sow&Steady ;-)

Rodrigo Meira
No problems ...
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Old 05-16-2005, 02:09 AM   #21470
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
I read with great interest the 2.3 set up book(VERY nice,btw..)....

and esp the articles on tweak stations....(esp D's.....)...now let me ask you a question.....and you can tell me if I'm wrong.....I'm getting the idea that the typical tweak station is wrong(from the article)........do you want one end of the car on a block with no tires..and lifting the other end?,.....

and has anyone tried the hudy tweak station...(I haven't seen one yet).....and is it the same as a MIP type>,,,,thanks
Harry,

If you want to read the full discussion:
http://www.rc-racing.com/cgi-bin/bac...howforgotten=2

That should aswer most of your questions

Julius
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Old 05-16-2005, 03:37 AM   #21471
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Quote:
Originally posted by JustRace
Julius...you play with both diffs? The times that I've used the front diff it was pretty tight. Then I made adjustment to only the rear diff.
I work in the same way. But I do experiment with the front setting in practice to feel where the optimum for the track is.

It is often a combination of both diffs. For example, if you have oversteer on trottle, you could loosen the rear or tighten the front. Both will make the car more stable on throttle.

In other words experiment as a good knowledge of the diffs and how the car changes will give you tools to quickly fine tune the car even in warmup for the race.
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Old 05-16-2005, 03:38 AM   #21472
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Default Re: New Chassis

Quote:
Originally posted by JustRace
Mark...I know you love the new chassis.

Julius....have you had a chance to experiment with the new chassis.

Any feedbacks??
I'm rebuilding my car now with the new chassis. Rene and RickV reported the car feeling more planted and easier to drive.
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Old 05-18-2005, 08:20 AM   #21473
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hey guys,does the diff's balls need to be lube???if so,what lube???and does the arms need reaming to make it free from binding???and any pics of the wiring setup????
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Old 05-18-2005, 08:29 AM   #21474
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Use some mugen super grease on the balls...
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Old 05-18-2005, 08:34 AM   #21475
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thanks.another question,how to make sure the diff is built rite???i think i have saw the link but dont remember where.thanks
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Old 05-18-2005, 08:55 AM   #21476
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See mark p's FAQ for the links and info...

here ya go!
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Old 05-18-2005, 10:33 PM   #21477
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Speaking of the grease for all around use. I have found this Molydbenum Disulphide spray Lube at Ace Hardware and used it by spraying it on the balls, diff plates, dog bone tips & wheel axles with a very very good results.

[IMG]Molydbenum Disulphide spray Lube[/IMG]
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Old 05-19-2005, 04:51 AM   #21478
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Quote:
Originally posted by redsand
Speaking of the grease for all around use. I have found this Molydbenum Disulphide spray Lube at Ace Hardware and used it by spraying it on the balls, diff plates, dog bone tips & wheel axles with a very very good results.

[IMG]Molydbenum Disulphide spray Lube[/IMG]
Redsand....that's good stuff. I've only used it on the dogbones.
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Old 05-19-2005, 10:46 AM   #21479
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Quote:
Originally posted by redsand
Speaking of the grease for all around use. I have found this Molydbenum Disulphide spray Lube at Ace Hardware and used it by spraying it on the balls, diff plates, dog bone tips & wheel axles with a very very good results.

[IMG]Molydbenum Disulphide spray Lube[/IMG]
At bicycle shops, you can also get a teflon spray used on the chains, and said to last 100 miles in competition. It also drys clear, non-staining. I've used it for years on the dogbones and out drives between major cleanings.
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Old 05-19-2005, 08:39 PM   #21480
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One of the most shear resistant lubricants that I have come across is auto transmission fluid. I think this would work really well at areas where there is high shear like dogbones and gears, etc.

I have yet to try it in r/c though...
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