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Old 05-15-2005, 01:06 PM   #21451
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Default Re: Re: Help! Engine Screws

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Oops! never heard of this happening.

If the heads are badly damaged, then you'll need to drill the heads out, but you have to be careful and you'll probably need a very hard drill bit.
You drill through the head with a drill bit which has a slightly larger diameter than the screw body itself.
Once you reach the body through the head, the head will simply fall out.
You can then remove your engine and simply unscrew the bodies from the engine block.

Cheers, Mark.
Once it happened to me with my older car ... I did a cut in the head, so i could use a crewdriver to remove the screw...
Used the dremel .. and it worked fine for me ..
Good luck
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Old 05-15-2005, 01:09 PM   #21452
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Hy Guys..
I'm having some problems with the white piece that goes inside my 2nd gear ... the shoes.. i think they're fine, and the side screws too, but the ones that hold the little metal piece inside, i'm having some problems on HOW to setup their tightness.... and what it'll do with my shift performance ?!?!.... and anybody help me, please .. giving some instructions on how to assemble and see if it's ok ?!
Tnks
Rodrigo Meira
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Old 05-15-2005, 01:17 PM   #21453
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Quote:
Originally posted by Greg M
Does anyone make an alloy lower front bulkhead? Can't find one by 3 racing?
I've not seen an alloy lower front b'jead before.
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Old 05-15-2005, 01:21 PM   #21454
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Quote:
Originally posted by RMeira
Hy Guys..
I'm having some problems with the white piece that goes inside my 2nd gear ... the shoes.. i think they're fine, and the side screws too, but the ones that hold the little metal piece inside, i'm having some problems on HOW to setup their tightness.... and what it'll do with my shift performance ?!?!.... and anybody help me, please .. giving some instructions on how to assemble and see if it's ok ?!
Tnks
Rodrigo Meira
There are two allen grub screws sitting on either side. You tighten these so that the metal piece in the middle turns minimally by hand.

I normally screw one in until I see a very small gap. Then I back out until the shoes just touch together. Then I do the same with the other screw.

Some people like to have a very small gap between the shoes which is also OK as long as the shows are not touching the aluminium 2nd spur gear holder.
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Old 05-15-2005, 01:35 PM   #21455
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The crash I had the other day ripped the screws out of the lower bulkhead, but did no damage to anything else. I'l prefer to break an arm then the bulkhead, hence why I'd be interested in getting one.
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Old 05-15-2005, 01:54 PM   #21456
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Quote:
Originally posted by JustRace
Julius...Do you use the front diff more than the one-way? How do you decide which to use? The only time I've used the front one-way was at the 2005 WinterNats. I did this to take away some front steering to help with the traction roll. Thanks.
At the moment I only run the diff. Last time with a one way was at the Euro's in Austria. The thing that decides it for me is laptimes. If I have the time I try both and see what works best.

I do find the car easier to setup with the diff. In part because you can change the feeling of the car a lot by just changing the clamp setting on the diff. I strongly reccomend experimenting with that setting a lot to see what the optimum setting is for you. Just drive the car a few minutes and get your pit-monkey to change the clamp a little at a time and feel the change in the car. You'll quickly find out that it is a very powerful tuning point on the car.
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Old 05-15-2005, 02:21 PM   #21457
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
There are two allen grub screws sitting on either side. You tighten these so that the metal piece in the middle turns minimally by hand.

I normally screw one in until I see a very small gap. Then I back out until the shoes just touch together. Then I do the same with the other screw.

Some people like to have a very small gap between the shoes which is also OK as long as the shows are not touching the aluminium 2nd spur gear holder.
I see..
Well .. i'll try here... tnk's for the advice ;-).
another question..
About the Rear Diff tightness..
My car is onle 90% assembled, since my engine arrives tomorrow only.
When i turn by hand the rear axle (where the central belt goes), it's a lot harder to turn, than the front one..
It's not the rear belt that is too tight , i checked that ... any other points ?!?!?! maybe a little problem with the rear diff ?!?!?!
or is it normal for the rear to be a little harder to turn than the front ?!
tnks
Rodrigo Meira
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Old 05-15-2005, 02:24 PM   #21458
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Quote:
Originally posted by RMeira
I see..
Well .. i'll try here... tnk's for the advice ;-).
another question..
About the Rear Diff tightness..
My car is onle 90% assembled, since my engine arrives tomorrow only.
When i turn by hand the rear axle (where the central belt goes), it's a lot harder to turn, than the front one..
It's not the rear belt that is too tight , i checked that ... any other points ?!?!?! maybe a little problem with the rear diff ?!?!?!
or is it normal for the rear to be a little harder to turn than the front ?!
tnks
Rodrigo Meira
Did you check that the brakes are not engaging onto the disc?

It shouldn't be harder to turn than the front.

Also check that the two pins that turns the disc brake are not touching the inside of the right bulkhead.
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Old 05-15-2005, 02:59 PM   #21459
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Did you check that the brakes are not engaging onto the disc?

It shouldn't be harder to turn than the front.

Also check that the two pins that turns the disc brake are not touching the inside of the right bulkhead.
As i got up the computer and ran to the car.. i tough.. BINGO .. the pins of the brake ... but .. no .. it wasn't them .. they're not touching the rear bulkhead ..

But .. as i was trning the axle with the car in front of me .. i touched the break disk a little .. and it became a lot more easy to turn ..
the break was not engaged... i guess that's because i'm running the axle in my hand. . when i get it running at high speed i guess it won't be a problem, because the break disk will settle better...
Thanks you for your help Sow&Steady ;-)

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Old 05-15-2005, 03:13 PM   #21460
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Check the pulley don't have any sticky oily dirt in them - especially the side pulleys. This can make it feel like the breaks are on.

Give all the pulleys a good clean and your transmission should run very smoothly

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 05-15-2005, 04:04 PM   #21461
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Markp
My car is brand new shiny and beautiful ....
even my SX-12 engine will arrive tomorrow .. so i haven't run it yet.... so i gues it's not any strange oil or anything in the pulleys ...
But thank's for the advice ;-)
Rodrigo Meira
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Old 05-15-2005, 04:32 PM   #21462
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Default Re: Help! Engine Screws

Quote:
Originally posted by fulcrum2
Hi there!


I have a serious problem with my engine mount screws (under the chassis) M4x10 #802551

I canīt open two of them. Having them fastened by hand with a Hudy driver and no threadlock a couple of weeks ago, I canīt open two of them with the same driver!
The driver is already broken and the screwheads are badly damaged by now. Here are my questions:

How could this happen? Is the heat of the engine seizing the screws in the chassis?

What can I do to prevent this from happening in the future?

And the most important question, how can I get those screws out?
Drilling? Cut a groove in the head and use a flathead screwdriver? Weld another screw or tool to the heads?

What has worked for you?


Andy advice would be appreciated...
This is what I use to get out stripped heads:

Irwin 5/64 In. Spiral Screw Extractor & Drill Bit
Model 4430609

You can get it at Home Depot for $2.67.

Just drill a hole into the head. Insert screw extractor and turn CCW. This will tighten the extractor into the screw. Once it tightens enough the screw will automatically start to unscrew.

Home Depot link Search for Screw Extractor
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Old 05-15-2005, 04:38 PM   #21463
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Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
At the moment I only run the diff. Last time with a one way was at the Euro's in Austria. The thing that decides it for me is laptimes. If I have the time I try both and see what works best.

I do find the car easier to setup with the diff. In part because you can change the feeling of the car a lot by just changing the clamp setting on the diff. I strongly reccomend experimenting with that setting a lot to see what the optimum setting is for you. Just drive the car a few minutes and get your pit-monkey to change the clamp a little at a time and feel the change in the car. You'll quickly find out that it is a very powerful tuning point on the car.
Julius...you play with both diffs? The times that I've used the front diff it was pretty tight. Then I made adjustment to only the rear diff.
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Old 05-15-2005, 04:46 PM   #21464
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Default New Chassis

Mark...I know you love the new chassis.

Julius....have you had a chance to experiment with the new chassis.

Any feedbacks??
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Old 05-15-2005, 05:30 PM   #21465
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Has anyone tried these by RD Logics? Are they any different from the ones that Serpent makes?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW
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