Serpent 710
Originally posted by markp27
Which mod is this, Goldfinger?
Which mod is this, Goldfinger?
I'll try to take a pics from our team driver car this weekend as I also promise other people to make rev5 clearer (yes Joe, that is you incase you are reading).. the new chassis will jus make mine even lower I think
just need some li-po rx batteries to clear bottom of fuel tank.
Originally posted by GoldFinger
About the chassis, i dont know in theory but in practical the hole below the engine is not only as a cooling hole but they are really help to clear out the dirt.
About the chassis, i dont know in theory but in practical the hole below the engine is not only as a cooling hole but they are really help to clear out the dirt.
Tech Initiate
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 33
From: Brasil
Thank you guys ..
I'll stick with the regular belt's ... Since i live in Brazil, i have to order a lot of things abroad, so it takes almost 10 days to get here... and i don't want to miss a race for lacking a belt or anything ...
Mark ;-) I've read the FAQ weeks befor i even get the car .. and i tought the Serpent forum to give the Highest support to other pilots and i've veery happy to be in the snake team ;-)
I'll get some suspension arms and some belts ;-)
Thank's a lot guys .....
Rodrigo Meira
I'll stick with the regular belt's ... Since i live in Brazil, i have to order a lot of things abroad, so it takes almost 10 days to get here... and i don't want to miss a race for lacking a belt or anything ...
Mark ;-) I've read the FAQ weeks befor i even get the car .. and i tought the Serpent forum to give the Highest support to other pilots and i've veery happy to be in the snake team ;-)
I'll get some suspension arms and some belts ;-)
Thank's a lot guys .....
Rodrigo Meira
Originally posted by Pyramid
Sorry for not being able to get some pics on the upper recv cover that I milled out before. I did not use that anymore since I've switch to KO receiver and the mods done on rx top cover is really staright forward as cutting those 2 upper cover legs by 2mm shorter. The one for R131ip really need some machining work if you want to get it factory looks. Golfinger just being lazy!
Sorry for not being able to get some pics on the upper recv cover that I milled out before. I did not use that anymore since I've switch to KO receiver and the mods done on rx top cover is really staright forward as cutting those 2 upper cover legs by 2mm shorter. The one for R131ip really need some machining work if you want to get it factory looks. Golfinger just being lazy!
Brader, first you didn't post the pics, then Goldfinger is lazy ... what's going on with the team over there?

I'll try to take a pics from our team driver car this weekend as I also promise other people to make rev5 clearer (yes Joe, that is you incase you are reading).. the new chassis will jus make mine even lower I think
just need some li-po rx batteries to clear bottom of fuel tank.
just need some li-po rx batteries to clear bottom of fuel tank.
Looking forward to it.
Originally posted by RMeira
Thank you guys ..
I'll stick with the regular belt's ... Since i live in Brazil, i have to order a lot of things abroad, so it takes almost 10 days to get here... and i don't want to miss a race for lacking a belt or anything ...
Mark ;-) I've read the FAQ weeks befor i even get the car .. and i tought the Serpent forum to give the Highest support to other pilots and i've veery happy to be in the snake team ;-)
I'll get some suspension arms and some belts ;-)
Thank's a lot guys .....
Rodrigo Meira
Thank you guys ..
I'll stick with the regular belt's ... Since i live in Brazil, i have to order a lot of things abroad, so it takes almost 10 days to get here... and i don't want to miss a race for lacking a belt or anything ...
Mark ;-) I've read the FAQ weeks befor i even get the car .. and i tought the Serpent forum to give the Highest support to other pilots and i've veery happy to be in the snake team ;-)
I'll get some suspension arms and some belts ;-)
Thank's a lot guys .....
Rodrigo Meira
There is a 21t pulley for the middle shaft that gives more front drive. Are you running a front diff? A tighter setting on the clamp may help. I run the front diff very stiff and it improves the car a lot.
Originally posted by Julius
There is a 21t pulley for the middle shaft that gives more front drive. Are you running a front diff? A tighter setting on the clamp may help. I run the front diff very stiff and it improves the car a lot.
There is a 21t pulley for the middle shaft that gives more front drive. Are you running a front diff? A tighter setting on the clamp may help. I run the front diff very stiff and it improves the car a lot.
Tech Regular
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 314
Hi there!
I have a serious problem with my engine mount screws (under the chassis) M4x10 #802551
I can´t open two of them. Having them fastened by hand with a Hudy driver and no threadlock a couple of weeks ago, I can´t open two of them with the same driver!
The driver is already broken and the screwheads are badly damaged by now. Here are my questions:
How could this happen? Is the heat of the engine seizing the screws in the chassis?
What can I do to prevent this from happening in the future?
And the most important question, how can I get those screws out?
Drilling? Cut a groove in the head and use a flathead screwdriver? Weld another screw or tool to the heads?
What has worked for you?
Andy advice would be appreciated...
I have a serious problem with my engine mount screws (under the chassis) M4x10 #802551
I can´t open two of them. Having them fastened by hand with a Hudy driver and no threadlock a couple of weeks ago, I can´t open two of them with the same driver!
The driver is already broken and the screwheads are badly damaged by now. Here are my questions:
How could this happen? Is the heat of the engine seizing the screws in the chassis?
What can I do to prevent this from happening in the future?
And the most important question, how can I get those screws out?
Drilling? Cut a groove in the head and use a flathead screwdriver? Weld another screw or tool to the heads?
What has worked for you?
Andy advice would be appreciated...
I'm loving the 710 at the moment. Had our first club day in a while and after a few set up issues was mixing it with the national champ in the last race. We were swapping the lead every lap and we were both on for near the track record until a power failure half way through the race ended my chances. My best lap time with my old CD3 was 18sec flat, the 710 I'm in the 16sec bracket. I had done a 17 laps 1 sec run earlier in the day and was on for an 18 laps 5 sec. I was a mix of emotions when the car died, great to be able to mix it with the best, but very dissappointed not to finish and actually get the time, but thats racing.
Originally posted by fulcrum2
Hi there!
I have a serious problem with my engine mount screws (under the chassis) M4x10 #802551
I can�t open two of them. Having them fastened by hand with a Hudy driver and no threadlock a couple of weeks ago, I can�t open two of them with the same driver!
The driver is already broken and the screwheads are badly damaged by now. Here are my questions:
How could this happen? Is the heat of the engine seizing the screws in the chassis?
What can I do to prevent this from happening in the future?
And the most important question, how can I get those screws out?
Drilling? Cut a groove in the head and use a flathead screwdriver? Weld another screw or tool to the heads?
What has worked for you?
Andy advice would be appreciated...
Hi there!
I have a serious problem with my engine mount screws (under the chassis) M4x10 #802551
I can�t open two of them. Having them fastened by hand with a Hudy driver and no threadlock a couple of weeks ago, I can�t open two of them with the same driver!
The driver is already broken and the screwheads are badly damaged by now. Here are my questions:
How could this happen? Is the heat of the engine seizing the screws in the chassis?
What can I do to prevent this from happening in the future?
And the most important question, how can I get those screws out?
Drilling? Cut a groove in the head and use a flathead screwdriver? Weld another screw or tool to the heads?
What has worked for you?
Andy advice would be appreciated...
If the heads are badly damaged, then you'll need to drill the heads out, but you have to be careful and you'll probably need a very hard drill bit.
You drill through the head with a drill bit which has a slightly larger diameter than the screw body itself.
Once you reach the body through the head, the head will simply fall out.
You can then remove your engine and simply unscrew the bodies from the engine block.
Cheers, Mark.



