Sorry for the incident that happened... Look to install a TRS on your carb.

Well for me, it's just ordinary black electrical tape wrapped around a few times.

I guess I'll use Julius' tip of putting a double sided tape first. But for some receivers, it makes it a little taller in the receiver box making mounting of the receiver difficult.

What car(s)?

Mind you, that's a natural talent !

But don't worry. Your male instincts will be your best guide.

Yup. You scratch my back, I scratch yours. Get to know some of the guys who race often at the track. It would be best if the person drives the same car as is familiar with how to start your can in case of a flame out (which incidently always happen when you do not want it to ).

Yes, that's what I though. I guess you can play with gearing to make up for the lack in the top end and take advantage of the low end torque the pipe produces.

I'm currently using a mixed pipe combo. Inline RDLogic .15 pipe with a Novarossi manifold. That makes for a short pipe with a pipe length of 88 mm. Pretty good high end but perhaps slightly soft on the low end. But that perhaps is made up from the agressive clutch setup. Makes driving out of corners easy.

On the Mugen, it is not too bad.

Ah, it is still soft in any case...

This is the only body that I've been using so far. Pretty neutral for me.

Ummm, that's what I thought when I "borrowed" the Alfa 2.1 shell from and friend and put it on my car. Makes for very stable rear end which makes the car a little understeer for my liking. Perhaps it's the big rear wing. I guess when you cut it more, it'sll give better steering.

I'm waiting for my Mazda 6 !

Hey, how does the Lolita or the Lola shell compare with the sedan shells on the 710?

Thanks for the little bits...

A slight front overdrive in the drive can also be achieved by using the 705's 46T rear diff pulley instead of the 45T. You need to do some things to make it work though. That'll be worth about 2.5 mm of tire split.

Or you could use the 23T pulley and the necessary aluminum pulley adapter (also from the Impact / 835 / 705) to get overdrive in the drivetrain. Using this would make for about 3.5 mm of tire split.

no i used the yellow springs front and rear, hey and you are more than welcome to come to our tack! I will pots my set up very soon i'm waiting on this company that wants me to test their tires,plus i want to try a couple of more things to the car.

i know thats after running 2 15 minute mains back to back(bump up from another main)won the first main and finished 3rd on the second. And the tires were also 35 shore front and rear.!

Whats TRS?

I've got round to upgrading the FAQ to be more the document I wanted - here's the V1.0 version of it - clearer and more professional layout. Comments would be nice

Cheers, Mark.

I see you sensed it too!

TRS= throttle return spring

Throttle Return Spring.

Cheers, Mark.

After changing to a higher roll center the car does not have traction roll as much which helped alot. The only way without traction roll is to true your tires down alot. But some how im still having traction roll My front toes out -2 which gives me oversteer which still has traction roll. I need some help with this setup, its frustrating me

The only thing I have done to the settings is red springs, raised front roll center, stiff front sway bar, soft rear sway bar. Everything else is pretty much factory setting.

Does traction roll only happen when the front tires have too much grip or can it happen with the rears as well? Im running 42 shores all around. How much affect does droop have on traction roll? Just want to narrow down my problems so I dont have to be wrenching all day Im running on high bite track. What about changing to a harder spring? Will that help or make things worse? Sorry for asking all these questions.

Man, you beat me to it!