R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-29-2005, 09:12 AM   #22186
Tech Apprentice
 
nitro rookie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Caledonia Michigan
Posts: 66
Default

Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone could tell what to look for in a pipe.
I have the 710 with a stock Rex RER3 and a RB mods Rex RER3. I was running
a Skyline racing pipe but it got beat up pretty bad this weekend, so I want to try something else now. Any ideas would be great.
Thanks
nitro rookie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2005, 11:39 AM   #22187
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 27,214
Trader Rating: 182 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitro rookie
Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone could tell what to look for in a pipe.
I have the 710 with a stock Rex RER3 and a RB mods Rex RER3. I was running
a Skyline racing pipe but it got beat up pretty bad this weekend, so I want to try something else now. Any ideas would be great.
Thanks
keep the Skyline pipe , just fill it up with water and put it over night in the freezer, it will be almost as good as new.
Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2005, 02:56 AM   #22188
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitro rookie
Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone could tell what to look for in a pipe.
I have the 710 with a stock Rex RER3 and a RB mods Rex RER3. I was running
a Skyline racing pipe but it got beat up pretty bad this weekend, so I want to try something else now. Any ideas would be great.
Thanks
You could try Nova varients of the inline pipes... You cannot go wrong with that.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2005, 02:57 AM   #22189
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fulcrum2
What is the difference between the red soft shock bladders and the oem black ones?
going4#1 and jag are correct. Red is softer than black. I find the red more consistent.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2005, 02:57 AM   #22190
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyU
What's wrong with the 16t pinion?
Meshing problem with the 61T spur. But I think that has already improved with the new batch of silver coloured 16T pinions. No problems so far with my 16T/61T combo.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2005, 02:59 AM   #22191
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
Yes, my lone handling issue is that rear will tend to swing out if I get on the gas too quick coming out of the corner.
If you're having this problem when running the front diff, then tightening the front diff will give you the stability like what Julius has mentioned.

Please make sure that the front or rear diff is built correctly in the first place and make sure that they do not slip. Refer to Julius' article on building the diffs correctly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
I have also read that people are having problems with the 16t gear. What do you think?
No problems here. Mesh it slightly tighter. You should be ok.

[QUOTE=jag]I made a mistake last time out by tightening both diffs at the same time. If 0 = no collar and 10 = locked, then I had the front around 7 and the rear around 6. Does that make any sense? I didn't like it there so I went down to around 5 front and 3 rear.

Try a front diff setting of about 6 to 7 and a rear diff setting of about 2 or 3 as a relative comparison.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
- put grub screws in the flyweights
I suggest NOT to try this... But if you have a lot of time in your hands, you could give it a go. No promises on clutch improvement in the long run.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
Now is a good time for me to experiment since the track is new and we only practice right now. Racing should start in a few weeks. I need all the help I can get. I am the lone Serpent so far and I am surrounded by *spit* Mugens.
In Florida? I find that difficult to believe...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
Are you saying that a photograph on myTSN would be "doctored"?
Who would do such a thing?
Oh, they will let you see what you need to see and doctor it for those that you need not have to see. (j/k)
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2005, 06:14 AM   #22192
Tech Master
 
DS Motorsport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,440
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

it would be great if there is a tool to measure the tightness on the diff.
i found one way to measure it: measure the gap with some calipers that is in the diff clamp. How tighter the diff, how smaller the gap on the clamp.
It's not perfect, but i as a rookie driver i do'nt have the experience to feel if the diff is set right.

But a real tool for it can be made i think. just have something you can attach at the place where the wheels normally go. And than you turn the diff and the device measures the amount op power needed to turn it one full cycle.
Something like that could work i think.

but i also got a question. I recently bought a new set of shocks because of breaking both front shocks. With the old ones i just fill them till the top, screw the lid on and the excessive oil will bleed out. But when i do that with the new ones, they are still too full, i can't compress them.
So then i just filled them halfway but than they are full of air, so how to fill the shocks correctly? The only change with the old shocks is that i now got the red bladders in them.
DS Motorsport is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2005, 07:07 AM   #22193
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Posts: 478
Send a message via ICQ to _cyclops_
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DS Motorsport
it would be great if there is a tool to measure the tightness on the diff.
i found one way to measure it: measure the gap with some calipers that is in the diff clamp. How tighter the diff, how smaller the gap on the clamp.
It's not perfect, but i as a rookie driver i do'nt have the experience to feel if the diff is set right.

But a real tool for it can be made i think. just have something you can attach at the place where the wheels normally go. And than you turn the diff and the device measures the amount op power needed to turn it one full cycle.
Something like that could work i think.
I think a torque wrench would work.. just put it on the wheel nut, and hold one wheel, then just see when the torque wrench slips... but.. then again.. torque wrenches are expensive, and do they make them that small with that such small presure changes?

ReneC help us out here, make something :P
_cyclops_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2005, 07:09 AM   #22194
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Posts: 478
Send a message via ICQ to _cyclops_
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DS Motorsport
but i also got a question. I recently bought a new set of shocks because of breaking both front shocks. With the old ones i just fill them till the top, screw the lid on and the excessive oil will bleed out. But when i do that with the new ones, they are still too full, i can't compress them.
So then i just filled them halfway but than they are full of air, so how to fill the shocks correctly? The only change with the old shocks is that i now got the red bladders in them.
Push the piston halfway in the shock and then screw on the cap...
_cyclops_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2005, 08:02 AM   #22195
jag
Tech Master
 
jag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 1,168
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
keep the Skyline pipe , just fill it up with water and put it over night in the freezer, it will be almost as good as new.
Be careful if you do this. I wrap some zip ties around it and check on it every hour. If you leave it too long it can split the pipe.
jag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2005, 08:11 AM   #22196
jag
Tech Master
 
jag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 1,168
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by _cyclops_
I think a torque wrench would work.. just put it on the wheel nut, and hold one wheel, then just see when the torque wrench slips... but.. then again.. torque wrenches are expensive, and do they make them that small with that such small presure changes?

ReneC help us out here, make something :P
I think you are on to something here. You can get a torque wrench that measures in in/lbs and that would probably work. I may pick one up and see if it works.

jag
jag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2005, 08:21 AM   #22197
jag
Tech Master
 
jag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 1,168
Default

[QUOTE=InitialD]If you're having this problem when running the front diff, then tightening the front diff will give you the stability like what Julius has mentioned.

Please make sure that the front or rear diff is built correctly in the first place and make sure that they do not slip. Refer to Julius' article on building the diffs correctly.



No problems here. Mesh it slightly tighter. You should be ok.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
I made a mistake last time out by tightening both diffs at the same time. If 0 = no collar and 10 = locked, then I had the front around 7 and the rear around 6. Does that make any sense? I didn't like it there so I went down to around 5 front and 3 rear.

Try a front diff setting of about 6 to 7 and a rear diff setting of about 2 or 3 as a relative comparison.



I suggest NOT to try this... But if you have a lot of time in your hands, you could give it a go. No promises on clutch improvement in the long run.



In Florida? I find that difficult to believe...



Oh, they will let you see what you need to see and doctor it for those that you need not have to see. (j/k)

I will experiment with tightening the front diff alone to see how it effects the rear bite. I believe that the diffs are built correctly. They did not slip when I built them but I may pull them out to check. Is Julius' article in the FAQ?

I'm not going to mess with the gearing just yet. I rebuilt the clutch, again, yesterday. I did cut, drill and screw the flyweights (what a pain) and I switched to a black clutch. The yellow clutch was wearing very badly. It has been very hot out and I have yellow particles all over my car after every run. The yellow clutch also wore unevenly. I didn't notice any wobble in the assembly. I replaced all of it anyway.

Believe it or not, Mugen is very popular around here. There are 3 guys that I have racing against that all have them.

Thanks,
jag
jag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2005, 10:15 AM   #22198
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Posts: 478
Send a message via ICQ to _cyclops_
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
I think you are on to something here. You can get a torque wrench that measures in in/lbs and that would probably work. I may pick one up and see if it works.

jag

well, try it, let us know if it works.. it might be a good base to start developing a real tool for this...
_cyclops_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2005, 10:17 AM   #22199
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Posts: 478
Send a message via ICQ to _cyclops_
Default

[QUOTE=jag]
Quote:
Originally Posted by InitialD
If you're having this problem when running the front diff, then tightening the front diff will give you the stability like what Julius has mentioned.

Please make sure that the front or rear diff is built correctly in the first place and make sure that they do not slip. Refer to Julius' article on building the diffs correctly.



No problems here. Mesh it slightly tighter. You should be ok.




I will experiment with tightening the front diff alone to see how it effects the rear bite. I believe that the diffs are built correctly. They did not slip when I built them but I may pull them out to check. Is Julius' article in the FAQ?

I'm not going to mess with the gearing just yet. I rebuilt the clutch, again, yesterday. I did cut, drill and screw the flyweights (what a pain) and I switched to a black clutch. The yellow clutch was wearing very badly. It has been very hot out and I have yellow particles all over my car after every run. The yellow clutch also wore unevenly. I didn't notice any wobble in the assembly. I replaced all of it anyway.

Believe it or not, Mugen is very popular around here. There are 3 guys that I have racing against that all have them.

Thanks,
jag

I noticed that the diff get's a little loser when you just had build it and raced it.... so, it might slip now.....

also, don't try to many things in once, with what you have done with the clutch, nice, but don't push alll the options at once
_cyclops_ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2005, 10:34 AM   #22200
jag
Tech Master
 
jag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 1,168
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by _cyclops_
well, try it, let us know if it works.. it might be a good base to start developing a real tool for this...
I will let you know but it will only help if someone else (who knows what they are doing... D or Julius) has one also. Otherwise I won't have anything to compare it to.
jag is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Serpent 705 J_Longbrake Nitro On-Road 4252 02-23-2015 12:34 AM
WTB: NIB Serpent 710 aN4rK1 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 3 06-16-2006 09:23 PM
Serpent 835 JFCJ R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 3 02-20-2005 09:29 PM
Trade in Your Old Serpent 710 Parts for New Serpent 710 Parts fast_it710 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 0 09-17-2004 12:27 AM
Serpent Impulse w/MT-12 and Serpent Starter box - cheap Solara R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 03-07-2003 03:01 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:40 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net