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Old 08-26-2005, 01:48 AM   #22156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RMeira
Hy guys ..
I've been reading around... and wanted to ask a few setup questions..
What's your advice on running with Rubber tires !? .. they give less grip then foam ones.. and of course, with a front diff, because with one-way the car will spin on breaking ... at least that's what everybody i know says.....
Any advice on what to do to get the better performance out of the car.. with that kind of tires ?!!?..
Thank you

Rodrigo Meira
With rubber tires, you usually be better running front diffs or with a solid front.

For some samples of rubber tire setup on the 710, go to mytsn/setups and look up for setups made by Paul Knapton. A very respected Brit driver.
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Old 08-26-2005, 01:49 AM   #22157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyramid
With solid front, try the following setups: http://www.mytsn.com/setups/setup.asp?sid=2942
Front and rear solid?
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Old 08-26-2005, 01:50 AM   #22158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markp27
It does, you need to modifiy the diff housing a little, though. The part 801375 needs to be machined back 6mm, so that it fits into the rear. You also need to shorten the 801385 also by 6mm and put a flat spot on the shaft so that the grub screw will old the adaptor tight.
Darth Smooth, how do you modify the front diff pulley on the Impulse / 705 to 35T?

Quote:
Originally Posted by markp27
If you're using the new chassis, then you'll have to dremmel some material away, so that the 46T doesn't rub.
Yes, I noticed this too...
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Old 08-26-2005, 01:54 AM   #22159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaalp
I got a question regarding the centax II:
Would I get a better punch when I use the 909515 Centax II centrifugal shoes?
You can try cutting them up to shorten them so that they fit in between the 3 flywheel pins.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aaalp
And I am also thinking of buying the 909513 centax II clutch housing light. Our track is sometimes dusty when not used during the week. Would it cause any problem for the shoes using this housing as this housing is rather open to dust etc. as it has more holes on it?
Don't know for sure. I would not worry about dust. I would be more worried about smaller stones / pebbles.
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Old 08-26-2005, 01:55 AM   #22160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
During the Euros, Julius made a very good point when he saw my clutch. I was using a Kyosho hard spring and when he tried to remove the pre-tension nut, it was stuck there. Julius says this must not be the case and also it is better if the spring can move a little bit. Check these points because you may just be physically using one or two coils from the spring and not the whole thing!
I learned the hard way during my experimentation of the clutch on the 705. I used to use the super hard silver spring from *spit* on my 705 clutch. Like you mention, it binds and it's like 1 or 2 mm longer than the stock (can't recall, getting older ). The performance was very hard to predict. Sometimes it worked good but other times not. So best would be to stick to Serpent Centax springs in Serpent Centax clutches. The 1.8mm Centax II spring does wonders on the Centax 3.
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Old 08-26-2005, 01:57 AM   #22161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fulcrum2
Has anybody done it his way?
Yes, I use this method also. Like Uncle Sow, I take it slow and steady (sounds familiar?) and run slightly on the rich side a few more tanks (after WOT) around the track and before tuning for race.
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Old 08-26-2005, 02:02 AM   #22162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashed_1
Kyosoho spring in a Centax 3 clutch?...Man, if only Jason read this, boy you'd get a good tongue lashing. Good point from Julius though. Gonna give it a thorough check today.
Who?

Ummm, cut the old man some slack will ya... The man's got to do R&D work. So sometimes he does weird stuff on the car... Or was putting a *spit* spring in the Centax III a typical case of lame excuses for doing too many things at a time?
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Old 08-26-2005, 02:03 AM   #22163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fulcrum2
Thanks for your reply. How are you doing 2 tanks at WOT? Engine on a bench or in the car sittin´on the box? Revs pretty high to get the temps up? How about the mixture?
Could you give me a quick description of your break-in method?

Thanks for your attention to this!
During the WOT method, you control the RPM and temp by regulating the HSN needle. You need a very rich setting in order not to out rev the engine even when the carb is fully wide open ! The engine will not rev high because it will be on the rich side (if done correctly). The reason why WOT is used is because a lot of fuel / lubrication is used when running in using this method.

Not necessary to be done on a bench. Mount the engine on the car and do it on the starter box.
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Old 08-26-2005, 02:04 AM   #22164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by going4#1
They have removable seals which are great for cleaning but eventually the seals come off by themselves.
I noticed that too. The only complain I have is the seals on the Acer are not excellent and not made properly. They tend to give drag on the bearings itself when mounted. For some of the bearings, I use the older purple (god forbid) seals as replacement and they fit fine.

As for the Centax thrust bearing, I have not had the need to use the ceramic set yet. It's been working fine for me since day one (nearly two years old !)
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Old 08-26-2005, 02:10 AM   #22165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
Yes, I did that just so Jason wakes up and comes here and 3hobby.net more often. Where is that lazy old man anyway? Kid slowing him down?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
We should be able to manage 10 pages if we write with BIG fonts!
Ah... That's a trick I see. More like an excuse for you guys NOT to use a microscope, eh?
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Old 08-26-2005, 02:19 AM   #22166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
I wish there was a more precise way to guage the tightness/looseness of the diffs.
Yeah, me too...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
I would still like a little more on power rear traction when exiting the turn.
Does your tail end spin coming out of corners? Try tightening the front diff. It makes a whole lot of difference stability wise. Else, you could try one shock up on the rear shock tower.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
I am going to try the 2.5mm rear sway bar. If I loose some front steering how will I get it back?
The harder rear sway bar would probably be good. To compensate for the understeer you may have when tightening the front diff (I assume that's why you're not running the front diff tighter than it is), try a harder rear sway bar setting. You could try the higher rear roll center or use a more vertical mounted rear shocks to make it slightly harder.

This is what I do on mine. I take out the front sway bar. Use a hard 2.5mm rear sway bar. That would give you a lot of on power and off power steering. Then tune the front diff always making sure the front is much harder than rear. I try to play with the front diff and only making that as a variable.

While tuning the front diff, I always try to run a harder front diff setting FIRST as much as I possible can get away with and if I had to loosen it more to get the steering I want, I then try something else.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
What can I expect if I switch to 5 holes? or the fixed 3 hole?
A little easier to drive? More stable? Less twitchy? I always use more holes with thicker shock oils.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
Julius, congrats on the strong showing at the EC's. The picture of you, Mark and Rick must be incorrect. I don't see any old guys
Then you saw heavily Photochopped pics ! But if you look at 3Hobby site, you'll see that there's this foreign guy there in almost every pic. He's the oldest. He hides the wheel chair really good.
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Old 08-26-2005, 02:30 AM   #22167
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I'm using the front diff and its quite abit tighter then the rear.
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Old 08-26-2005, 05:46 PM   #22168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InitialD
Yeah, me too...



Does your tail end spin coming out of corners? Try tightening the front diff. It makes a whole lot of difference stability wise. Else, you could try one shock up on the rear shock tower.



The harder rear sway bar would probably be good. To compensate for the understeer you may have when tightening the front diff (I assume that's why you're not running the front diff tighter than it is), try a harder rear sway bar setting. You could try the higher rear roll center or use a more vertical mounted rear shocks to make it slightly harder.

This is what I do on mine. I take out the front sway bar. Use a hard 2.5mm rear sway bar. That would give you a lot of on power and off power steering. Then tune the front diff always making sure the front is much harder than rear. I try to play with the front diff and only making that as a variable.

While tuning the front diff, I always try to run a harder front diff setting FIRST as much as I possible can get away with and if I had to loosen it more to get the steering I want, I then try something else.



A little easier to drive? More stable? Less twitchy? I always use more holes with thicker shock oils.



Then you saw heavily Photochopped pics ! But if you look at 3Hobby site, you'll see that there's this foreign guy there in almost every pic. He's the oldest. He hides the wheel chair really good.

Yes, my lone handling issue is that rear will tend to swing out if I get on the gas too quick coming out of the corner. Part of my problem is that there are many short straights on my track and my car is not as quick as I would like. My car is as fast or faster than the others but I think it could be quicker. It may be the clutch or the gearing. I think the clutch is slipping a little. I am thinking about gearing down 1st gear but I don't know if that will cause tire spin. I have also read that people are having problems with the 16t gear. What do you think?

I made a mistake last time out by tightening both diffs at the same time. If 0 = no collar and 10 = locked, then I had the front around 7 and the rear around 6. Does that make any sense? I didn't like it there so I went down to around 5 front and 3 rear.

Things to try next time:
- less toe-in in the rear (2 - 2.5)
- less toe-out in the front (.5)
- 2.5mm rear sway bar
- 5 holes in the shocks (should I do this front and rear?)
- put grub screws in the flyweights
- gearing (61t 1st gear)
Any other suggestions? I know I should only do 1 at a time so I won't get to try all of these.

Now is a good time for me to experiment since the track is new and we only practice right now. Racing should start in a few weeks. I need all the help I can get. I am the lone Serpent so far and I am surrounded by *spit* Mugens.

Are you saying that a photograph on myTSN would be "doctored"?
Who would do such a thing?

Thanks guys,
jag
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Old 08-26-2005, 11:57 PM   #22169
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What's wrong with the 16t pinion?
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Old 08-27-2005, 03:53 AM   #22170
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@InitalD and Sow&Steady

Quote:
During the WOT method, you control the RPM and temp by regulating the HSN needle. You need a very rich setting in order not to out rev the engine even when the carb is fully wide open ! The engine will not rev high because it will be on the rich side (if done correctly). The reason why WOT is used is because a lot of fuel / lubrication is used when running in using this method.

Thanks for your answers. I think Josh´s method is spot on, except for the temp issue. I´ve simulated a break in cycle with my current engine to get a feel for the procedure but found that the temps stay pretty low (60°C) if you do the first tanks at WOT and with the mixture rich enough to keep the revs in a reasonable (low) range.
That´s the only thing I´m concerned about, because the p/s set will be tight at low temps...
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