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Old 08-23-2005, 09:58 AM   #22141
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Originally Posted by going4#1
The maker is East. Made in Japan. Mushroom just got re-stocked in Orange (just got mine yesterday). Looks great on the car and matches the other Serpent orange hop-ups parts. Highly recommend it for the 710 as the Serpent anti-roll bar does a bit of rolling itself left and right. I always wonder why Serpent moved away from the blade type. Cost, I guess?
The pin that slides over aluminum housing.. after sometimes will have plays (lots and lots of play).
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Old 08-23-2005, 10:53 AM   #22142
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Originally Posted by crashed_1
Kyosoho spring in a Centax 3 clutch?...Man, if only Jason read this, boy you'd get a good tongue lashing.
Yes, I did that just so Jason wakes up and comes here and 3hobby.net more often. Where is that lazy old man anyway? Kid slowing him down?

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Good point from Julius though. Gonna give it a thorough check today.
Do check that ...

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How did you do in the Euros?...are we gonna see a 5 page report like marks German Nats?...
My aim was to be in the top 50% but you can't achieve this when you failed to complete 50% of your heats! Anyway, Joe_K and I have decided to out-do Mark by joining forces and doing a combined report. We should be able to manage 10 pages if we write with BIG fonts!
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Old 08-23-2005, 11:01 AM   #22143
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Originally Posted by fulcrum2
@Sow&Steady



Thanks for your reply. How are you doing 2 tanks at WOT? Engine on a bench or in the car sittinŽon the box? Revs pretty high to get the temps up? How about the mixture?
Could you give me a quick description of your break-in method?

Thanks for your attention to this!
I do it with the engine in the car and during WOT, I try to build the temp up to about 60 or 70 C for the first 2 tanks. I feel this is rich enough to remove junk, if any, but also warm enough so as start the wearing-in process without prematurely wearing the piston-sleeve.

Next I place the car on the track and drive around rich. Some engines do fine with the same setting that I used in the first part, some will need to be richened a bit more. The idea is still the same, you want to drive it around rich with the throttle almost fully open but at the same time not stalling and not too hot (i.e. around 70 to 80 C at this point). I do this for about 5 to 6 tanks, gradually leaning out each tank so that by the end of the 6th tank on the track, I am running at around 90 C and close to race tune.

Between each of the above tanks, I stop the engine and ensure that the piston is at bottom-dead-center by turning the flywheel and then letting it cool down before doing the next tank.

I feel that this is the best way to heat-cycle and bed-in the engine but of course, there are many opinions on this.
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Old 08-23-2005, 03:38 PM   #22144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
YAnyway, Joe_K and I have decided to out-do Mark by joining forces and doing a combined report. We should be able to manage 10 pages if we write with BIG fonts!
Cheats!!!!!
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Old 08-24-2005, 08:10 AM   #22145
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Originally Posted by Pyramid
The pin that slides over aluminum housing.. after sometimes will have plays (lots and lots of play).

That sucks. Any solution?
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Old 08-24-2005, 08:28 AM   #22146
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Originally Posted by going4#1
That sucks. Any solution?
Yes, try to sell it now (before it got some plays) and get the serpent 2.5mm one
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Old 08-24-2005, 08:58 AM   #22147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
I do it with the engine in the car and during WOT, I try to build the temp up to about 60 or 70 C for the first 2 tanks. I feel this is rich enough to remove junk, if any, but also warm enough so as start the wearing-in process without prematurely wearing the piston-sleeve.

Next I place the car on the track and drive around rich. Some engines do fine with the same setting that I used in the first part, some will need to be richened a bit more. The idea is still the same, you want to drive it around rich with the throttle almost fully open but at the same time not stalling and not too hot (i.e. around 70 to 80 C at this point). I do this for about 5 to 6 tanks, gradually leaning out each tank so that by the end of the 6th tank on the track, I am running at around 90 C and close to race tune.

Between each of the above tanks, I stop the engine and ensure that the piston is at bottom-dead-center by turning the flywheel and then letting it cool down before doing the next tank.

I feel that this is the best way to heat-cycle and bed-in the engine but of course, there are many opinions on this.

Why is heat-cycle so important? Can you explain why this is needed? I use about the same break-in method, but i don't stop the engine between tanks...
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Old 08-24-2005, 08:12 PM   #22148
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Originally Posted by Pyramid
Yes, try to sell it now (before it got some plays) and get the serpent 2.5mm one
You are very genius you know...
What a bright idea!!..
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Old 08-25-2005, 02:26 AM   #22149
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Originally Posted by markp27
Cheats!!!!!
Wat u mean chits? In mi cuntry dis is OK!
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Old 08-25-2005, 02:29 AM   #22150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _cyclops_
Why is heat-cycle so important? Can you explain why this is needed? I use about the same break-in method, but i don't stop the engine between tanks...
The sleeve is primarily made of brass, chrome plated on the inside - hence bi-metal.

The piston is made of aluminium.

I think it is clear that in order to bed-in the parts together properly, you would best do it by heat-cycling.
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Old 08-25-2005, 03:22 AM   #22151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
Wat u mean chits? In mi cuntry dis is OK!
Restekpa!
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Old 08-25-2005, 07:23 AM   #22152
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Default Nanda Break-in Bench. Cheap junk or a good deal?

Has anyone tried the Nanda Break-in bench yet (now on rc-mushroom)? At US$80 it seems like a bargin compared to the $150 for Hudy. But like a lot of Hudy knock-offs, usually its more than the price that is cheap. I'd like to get one to break in my engines as it saves quite a bit of time and avoid having to drive around the track extra slow almost begging to be hit by someone.

Any comments?
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Old 08-25-2005, 08:27 AM   #22153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InitialD
Jag, some suggestions here. If your track is flat, I would try using very little droop in the rear, say 8 or 9. Maybe 1 in the front. What tire diameters are you using? Too much rear droop makes for too much weight transfer to the front. This would cause too much steering and loss of stability and secondly the car becomes lazy.

Ride height maybe 5 in front and 6 in the rear. I like the rear to be higher than the front because for one thing, the rear tires wear faster. Secondly, when you're on power, the rear dives under acceleration.

As for camber, make the fronts wear flat while for the rear, use as much camber to make the rear tires slightly cone from the inside to outside (slightly smaller diameter in the inside). Left and right camber need not necessary be the same depending on the track layout.

Probably lessen the front toe out to 1 or 0.5. Mid corner speed increases and initial steering into corners will also lessen. Depending on your driving style, it may be easier to drive this way to make the car less sensitive to steering input. If you're not getting enough ON power steering, lessen the rear toe in. 3 is a lot I think. If you're using this much to tame the rear, I suggest you look somewhere else to get the balance back to the rear of the car. Too much straight line speed is scrubbed off also with a lot of rear toe in.

For the front diffs, I would generally try to get the front HARDER than the rear and then work my way from there. I do this mostly for stability of the car when powering out of the corners. Tightening the rear diff harder than front diff will cause the car to twitch and the rear swapping ends when you power out of corners. If I don't get enough steering because the front diff is harder than the rear, I'll get steering back by hardening my rear sway bar till I find the right balance. I go as much as taking off the front sway bars to get steering back. I use the optional harder 2.5mm sway bar and mount it inside the the rear bottom arms (stock setting is mounting it on the outer side).

For shocks, you may want to try 40wt Serpent oil for more responsive car. Are you using 1.2mm hole pistons or just the 1.0mm ones?

The roll centers I use on my 710 are the same as yours except that I use the highest front roll center (no shims underneath). I like how the car reacts and responds from left to right with a higher roll center in the front.

I ran the car again last night with 40's and it was working very well. I played with the diffs and front sway bar until it got bad and I ended up with the front sway bar flat, the front diff medium and the rear diff a little more loose that the front. I wish there was a more precise way to guage the tightness/looseness of the diffs. My rear diff seems pretty loose but I don't have anything to compare it to. I tightened both of them about 1/3 of a turn and the car became very difficult to drive. The front is still a little tighter than the rear. This was the best setup I could find with these items. I would still like a little more on power rear traction when exiting the turn.

I am going to try the 2.5mm rear sway bar. If I loose some front steering how will I get it back?

The tires are wearing pretty well... I wore the rears down to the rim That didn't help the driveablity any. I decreased the droop and increased the rear ride height. That seemed to help.

I am going to lessen the rear toe and rebuild the shocks for the next trip out. I have the shocks set with 3 holes (I think, they are set per the manual). What can I expect if I switch to 5 holes? or the fixed 3 hole?

Julius, congrats on the strong showing at the EC's. The picture of you, Mark and Rick must be incorrect. I don't see any old guys

Thanks for all the help.
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Old 08-25-2005, 11:57 PM   #22154
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Anyone out there using the 2500 receiver batteries? If so, where do I get a pack? I am tired of charging my packs before every heat! Thanks!
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Old 08-26-2005, 01:47 AM   #22155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg M
I tried raising the rear roll centre in practice today and hated it, rear end was very loose, so dropped it right back down and the rear grip came back up, but still needed some more front grip. I ended up increasing the front caster to the maximum and changed my driving style abit. In the end I top qualified and came second in the final. Overall a very good day and some improvement in car set up.
Were you using the front diff? Did you try tightening the front diff more when the rear was loose?
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