Serpent 710
08-22-2005 | 12:17 PM
Tech Adept
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 206
From: S.CA
Hi guys,
Anybody here use ceramic bearings in their S710? Why are they so expensive? I know they are lighter weight but what other benefits of using ceramic bearings? Are they worth the money?
Also, does anybody has any experience with any of these? Which one is better?
http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=3399
http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=6702
Thank you.
Anybody here use ceramic bearings in their S710? Why are they so expensive? I know they are lighter weight but what other benefits of using ceramic bearings? Are they worth the money?
Also, does anybody has any experience with any of these? Which one is better?
http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=3399
http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=6702
Thank you.
08-22-2005 | 01:15 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,104
From: Va Va Voom!
Originally Posted by crashed_1
I know this question has been posted many times but i can't seem to find an answer... 
I have just finished running in my MEGA and it has loads of torque. I read in the Mega forum that the pre tension on the clutch has to be set to around 1.8mm to 2mm. I did exactly that and find that it gives the car very good pick up for the first 1 minute and then starts to feel a little soft after. I tried 1.5mm and it was worse. The clutch felt like it was engaging too early and only picked up speed after 3-4 meters.
Would a bigger clutch gap help?...I can't tighten the pre-tension any further than 2mm...it's maxed out.
My setup...yellow shoes, fly weights in between pins, 705 centax springs and 0.7mm gap with little to no end play.
HELLLPP!!!
I have just finished running in my MEGA and it has loads of torque. I read in the Mega forum that the pre tension on the clutch has to be set to around 1.8mm to 2mm. I did exactly that and find that it gives the car very good pick up for the first 1 minute and then starts to feel a little soft after. I tried 1.5mm and it was worse. The clutch felt like it was engaging too early and only picked up speed after 3-4 meters. Would a bigger clutch gap help?...I can't tighten the pre-tension any further than 2mm...it's maxed out.
My setup...yellow shoes, fly weights in between pins, 705 centax springs and 0.7mm gap with little to no end play.
HELLLPP!!!
Crashed, this is a surprise coming from you. Anyway, I think either the gap is too big or you have a problem somewhere.
During the Euros, Julius made a very good point when he saw my clutch. I was using a Kyosho hard spring and when he tried to remove the pre-tension nut, it was stuck there. Julius says this must not be the case and also it is better if the spring can move a little bit. Check these points because you may just be physically using one or two coils from the spring and not the whole thing!
08-22-2005 | 01:17 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,104
From: Va Va Voom!
Originally Posted by TShirt Man
Who makes the blade type rear sway bar for the 710? Also is there a place to pick up any setups for the 710? Thanks! Please email me: [email protected]
08-22-2005 | 01:20 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 314
Hi there!
IŽve just read about the Josh Cyrul break-in method in the nitro engine sub forum.
Personally I like his aproach, but letting the car sit on the box for five tanks and running WOT very rich will keep the temps very low (approx. 140F).
This does not sound right to me. He mentions theat he is using this method for 10 years now, but meanwhile we have ABC engines which need to be run at operating temp, or the piston will wear the sleeve away.
Any thoughts about his procedure? Has anybody done it his way?
Cyruls break in
IŽve just read about the Josh Cyrul break-in method in the nitro engine sub forum.
Personally I like his aproach, but letting the car sit on the box for five tanks and running WOT very rich will keep the temps very low (approx. 140F).
This does not sound right to me. He mentions theat he is using this method for 10 years now, but meanwhile we have ABC engines which need to be run at operating temp, or the piston will wear the sleeve away.
Any thoughts about his procedure? Has anybody done it his way?
Cyruls break in
08-22-2005 | 01:27 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,104
From: Va Va Voom!
Originally Posted by fulcrum2
Hi there!
IŽve just read about the Josh Cyrul break-in method in the nitro engine sub forum.
Personally I like his aproach, but letting the car sit on the box for five tanks and running WOT very rich will keep the temps very low (approx. 140F).
This does not sound right to me. He mentions theat he is using this method for 10 years now, but meanwhile we have ABC engines which need to be run at operating temp, or the piston will wear the sleeve away.
Any thoughts about his procedure? Has anybody done it his way?
Cyruls break in
IŽve just read about the Josh Cyrul break-in method in the nitro engine sub forum.
Personally I like his aproach, but letting the car sit on the box for five tanks and running WOT very rich will keep the temps very low (approx. 140F).
This does not sound right to me. He mentions theat he is using this method for 10 years now, but meanwhile we have ABC engines which need to be run at operating temp, or the piston will wear the sleeve away.
Any thoughts about his procedure? Has anybody done it his way?
Cyruls break in
08-22-2005 | 01:39 PM
Tech Initiate
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 38
Originally Posted by TShirt Man
Who makes the blade type rear sway bar for the 710? Also is there a place to pick up any setups for the 710? Thanks! Please email me: [email protected]
http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=3878
08-22-2005 | 05:06 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,985
From: i love my job
Originally Posted by s8in
[I did exactly that and find that it gives the car very good pick up for the first 1 minute and then starts to feel a little soft after. I tried 1.5mm and it was worse. The clutch felt like it was engaging too early and only picked up speed after 3-4 meters.
This is usually a too lean Low Speed needle setting- or too lean overall. Motor heats up and then grunt disapears. There seems to be some confusion about the motor. It has no low speed power.
All the power is mid to top rpm- that is why you need to run a tight clutch. Also needed is a very short first gear to get you moving and the rpm up. Then with the right shift point into 2nd it will pull a long 2nd gear and take off like a scalded cat. (2607 pipe)
The fact that the clutch engags at a higher rpm which is in the powerband of the motor makes it feel like it has a lot of low speed (but not rpm) power.
The low speed needle seems to need to be about 1.5 - 2mm out of the slide. Or use the 5 second pinch test mentioned in the zx12 forum.
This is usually a too lean Low Speed needle setting- or too lean overall. Motor heats up and then grunt disapears. There seems to be some confusion about the motor. It has no low speed power.
All the power is mid to top rpm- that is why you need to run a tight clutch. Also needed is a very short first gear to get you moving and the rpm up. Then with the right shift point into 2nd it will pull a long 2nd gear and take off like a scalded cat. (2607 pipe)
The fact that the clutch engags at a higher rpm which is in the powerband of the motor makes it feel like it has a lot of low speed (but not rpm) power.
The low speed needle seems to need to be about 1.5 - 2mm out of the slide. Or use the 5 second pinch test mentioned in the zx12 forum.
08-22-2005 | 05:10 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,985
From: i love my job
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
Crashed, this is a surprise coming from you. Anyway, I think either the gap is too big or you have a problem somewhere.
During the Euros, Julius made a very good point when he saw my clutch. I was using a Kyosho hard spring and when he tried to remove the pre-tension nut, it was stuck there. Julius says this must not be the case and also it is better if the spring can move a little bit. Check these points because you may just be physically using one or two coils from the spring and not the whole thing!
During the Euros, Julius made a very good point when he saw my clutch. I was using a Kyosho hard spring and when he tried to remove the pre-tension nut, it was stuck there. Julius says this must not be the case and also it is better if the spring can move a little bit. Check these points because you may just be physically using one or two coils from the spring and not the whole thing!
Good point from Julius though. Gonna give it a thorough check today.How did you do in the Euros?...are we gonna see a 5 page report like marks German Nats?...
08-22-2005 | 09:03 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 341
Originally Posted by Benzoil
I think mushroom has it in orange or grey, suit yourself...
http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=3878
http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=3878
The maker is East. Made in Japan. Mushroom just got re-stocked in Orange (just got mine yesterday). Looks great on the car and matches the other Serpent orange hop-ups parts. Highly recommend it for the 710 as the Serpent anti-roll bar does a bit of rolling itself left and right. I always wonder why Serpent moved away from the blade type. Cost, I guess?
08-22-2005 | 10:55 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 314
@Sow&Steady
Thanks for your reply. How are you doing 2 tanks at WOT? Engine on a bench or in the car sittinŽon the box? Revs pretty high to get the temps up? How about the mixture?
Could you give me a quick description of your break-in method?
Thanks for your attention to this!
Thanks for your reply. How are you doing 2 tanks at WOT? Engine on a bench or in the car sittinŽon the box? Revs pretty high to get the temps up? How about the mixture?
Could you give me a quick description of your break-in method?
Thanks for your attention to this!
08-23-2005 | 01:07 AM
Tech Rookie
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4
Originally Posted by gfd2726
Hi guys,
Anybody here use ceramic bearings in their S710? Why are they so expensive? I know they are lighter weight but what other benefits of using ceramic bearings? Are they worth the money?
Also, does anybody has any experience with any of these? Which one is better?
http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=3399
http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=6702
Thank you.
Anybody here use ceramic bearings in their S710? Why are they so expensive? I know they are lighter weight but what other benefits of using ceramic bearings? Are they worth the money?
Also, does anybody has any experience with any of these? Which one is better?
http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=3399
http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=6702
Thank you.
08-23-2005 | 07:14 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 341
Originally Posted by PINCIR
i use ceramic only for the thrustbearing on the clutch after tearing apart two standart thrustbearings. had no problems after that. they seem to be more durable than the standart ones.
As for ceramic, my advice is do a little research first. I've used them in my 710 and I can tell you that the ceramic balls are only one part of the bearing equation. There are the shields, race, and lubricant too and all combine to determine how well the bearing works.
Boca Bearings has a very good explaination of all these factors. (http://www.bocabearings.com). Expensive but I've had good and bad luck with them. While their quality is high, they tend to be a bit more fragile in a crash.
Acer also has a good deal on a set. I think it's www.acerbearings.com. They tend to be more durable than boca, at least for me, but they are not sealed. They have removable seals which are great for cleaning but eventually the seals come off by themselves. Boca's sealed bearings don't require cleaning much but if dirt does get it, getting it out is pretty hard.
Good luck/