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Old 08-22-2005, 01:17 PM   #22126
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Hi guys,

Anybody here use ceramic bearings in their S710? Why are they so expensive? I know they are lighter weight but what other benefits of using ceramic bearings? Are they worth the money?

Also, does anybody has any experience with any of these? Which one is better?

http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=3399

http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=6702

Thank you.
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Old 08-22-2005, 02:15 PM   #22127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashed_1
I know this question has been posted many times but i can't seem to find an answer... I have just finished running in my MEGA and it has loads of torque. I read in the Mega forum that the pre tension on the clutch has to be set to around 1.8mm to 2mm. I did exactly that and find that it gives the car very good pick up for the first 1 minute and then starts to feel a little soft after. I tried 1.5mm and it was worse. The clutch felt like it was engaging too early and only picked up speed after 3-4 meters.

Would a bigger clutch gap help?...I can't tighten the pre-tension any further than 2mm...it's maxed out.

My setup...yellow shoes, fly weights in between pins, 705 centax springs and 0.7mm gap with little to no end play.

HELLLPP!!!


Crashed, this is a surprise coming from you. Anyway, I think either the gap is too big or you have a problem somewhere.

During the Euros, Julius made a very good point when he saw my clutch. I was using a Kyosho hard spring and when he tried to remove the pre-tension nut, it was stuck there. Julius says this must not be the case and also it is better if the spring can move a little bit. Check these points because you may just be physically using one or two coils from the spring and not the whole thing!
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Old 08-22-2005, 02:17 PM   #22128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TShirt Man
Who makes the blade type rear sway bar for the 710? Also is there a place to pick up any setups for the 710? Thanks! Please email me: [email protected]
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Old 08-22-2005, 02:20 PM   #22129
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Hi there!


IŽve just read about the Josh Cyrul break-in method in the nitro engine sub forum.
Personally I like his aproach, but letting the car sit on the box for five tanks and running WOT very rich will keep the temps very low (approx. 140F).
This does not sound right to me. He mentions theat he is using this method for 10 years now, but meanwhile we have ABC engines which need to be run at operating temp, or the piston will wear the sleeve away.
Any thoughts about his procedure? Has anybody done it his way?
Cyruls break in
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Old 08-22-2005, 02:27 PM   #22130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fulcrum2
Hi there!


IŽve just read about the Josh Cyrul break-in method in the nitro engine sub forum.
Personally I like his aproach, but letting the car sit on the box for five tanks and running WOT very rich will keep the temps very low (approx. 140F).
This does not sound right to me. He mentions theat he is using this method for 10 years now, but meanwhile we have ABC engines which need to be run at operating temp, or the piston will wear the sleeve away.
Any thoughts about his procedure? Has anybody done it his way?
Cyruls break in
I used to do it that way but I don't any more because of exactly what you said. These days I'll do the very WOT part for 1, maybe 2 tanks and then onto the track for the rest.
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Old 08-22-2005, 02:39 PM   #22131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TShirt Man
Who makes the blade type rear sway bar for the 710? Also is there a place to pick up any setups for the 710? Thanks! Please email me: [email protected]
I think mushroom has it in orange or grey, suit yourself...


http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=3878
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Old 08-22-2005, 06:00 PM   #22132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyramid
PM Goldfinger..
I will do just that...I hear you guys have got a bit of a headache but managed to cure it.
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Old 08-22-2005, 06:06 PM   #22133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s8in
[I did exactly that and find that it gives the car very good pick up for the first 1 minute and then starts to feel a little soft after. I tried 1.5mm and it was worse. The clutch felt like it was engaging too early and only picked up speed after 3-4 meters.

This is usually a too lean Low Speed needle setting- or too lean overall. Motor heats up and then grunt disapears. There seems to be some confusion about the motor. It has no low speed power.
All the power is mid to top rpm- that is why you need to run a tight clutch. Also needed is a very short first gear to get you moving and the rpm up. Then with the right shift point into 2nd it will pull a long 2nd gear and take off like a scalded cat. (2607 pipe)

The fact that the clutch engags at a higher rpm which is in the powerband of the motor makes it feel like it has a lot of low speed (but not rpm) power.

The low speed needle seems to need to be about 1.5 - 2mm out of the slide. Or use the 5 second pinch test mentioned in the zx12 forum.
Thanx. Will hit the tracks today and give it a try. Yeah i was dragging the first gear quite a bit but not too extreme though. I like this motor and i really hate to see it stashed away because of I/O error.(Idiot Operator)
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Old 08-22-2005, 06:10 PM   #22134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sow&Steady
Crashed, this is a surprise coming from you. Anyway, I think either the gap is too big or you have a problem somewhere.

During the Euros, Julius made a very good point when he saw my clutch. I was using a Kyosho hard spring and when he tried to remove the pre-tension nut, it was stuck there. Julius says this must not be the case and also it is better if the spring can move a little bit. Check these points because you may just be physically using one or two coils from the spring and not the whole thing!
Kyosoho spring in a Centax 3 clutch?...Man, if only Jason read this, boy you'd get a good tongue lashing. Good point from Julius though. Gonna give it a thorough check today.

How did you do in the Euros?...are we gonna see a 5 page report like marks German Nats?...
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Old 08-22-2005, 09:59 PM   #22135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redsand
dont be afraid with the number readings. i've gone as much as 4.5deg rear left camber.
I too use 4.5 in the rear as well since the tires get pretty skewed if I don't.
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Old 08-22-2005, 10:03 PM   #22136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benzoil
I think mushroom has it in orange or grey, suit yourself...


http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=3878

The maker is East. Made in Japan. Mushroom just got re-stocked in Orange (just got mine yesterday). Looks great on the car and matches the other Serpent orange hop-ups parts. Highly recommend it for the 710 as the Serpent anti-roll bar does a bit of rolling itself left and right. I always wonder why Serpent moved away from the blade type. Cost, I guess?
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Old 08-22-2005, 11:55 PM   #22137
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@Sow&Steady



Thanks for your reply. How are you doing 2 tanks at WOT? Engine on a bench or in the car sittinŽon the box? Revs pretty high to get the temps up? How about the mixture?
Could you give me a quick description of your break-in method?

Thanks for your attention to this!
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Old 08-23-2005, 02:07 AM   #22138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gfd2726
Hi guys,

Anybody here use ceramic bearings in their S710? Why are they so expensive? I know they are lighter weight but what other benefits of using ceramic bearings? Are they worth the money?

Also, does anybody has any experience with any of these? Which one is better?

http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=3399

http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=6702

Thank you.
i use ceramic only for the thrustbearing on the clutch after tearing apart two standart thrustbearings. had no problems after that. they seem to be more durable than the standart ones.
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Old 08-23-2005, 08:14 AM   #22139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PINCIR
i use ceramic only for the thrustbearing on the clutch after tearing apart two standart thrustbearings. had no problems after that. they seem to be more durable than the standart ones.
That is completely the opposite of what happened to me. I killed 2 ceramic thrust bearings and have stuck with the steel ever since, never loosing a bearing after that. Kind of weird, eh?

As for ceramic, my advice is do a little research first. I've used them in my 710 and I can tell you that the ceramic balls are only one part of the bearing equation. There are the shields, race, and lubricant too and all combine to determine how well the bearing works.

Boca Bearings has a very good explaination of all these factors. (http://www.bocabearings.com). Expensive but I've had good and bad luck with them. While their quality is high, they tend to be a bit more fragile in a crash.

Acer also has a good deal on a set. I think it's www.acerbearings.com. They tend to be more durable than boca, at least for me, but they are not sealed. They have removable seals which are great for cleaning but eventually the seals come off by themselves. Boca's sealed bearings don't require cleaning much but if dirt does get it, getting it out is pretty hard.

Good luck/
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Old 08-23-2005, 09:19 AM   #22140
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Is ceramic bearings ROAR legal to use on the car? Thanks guys.
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