Serpent 710
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Yup, mine is being installed this week too (gotta work on it in the evenings if 3hobby doesn't take up too much time!).
Yup, mine is being installed this week too (gotta work on it in the evenings if 3hobby doesn't take up too much time!).
'One' other thing must be done/revised also for this chassis.. The receiver cover! must be place higher by at least 0.85mm (assuming brother Marks info on 1.85mm lowered) to clear the ground when cornering. Especially for racers with R133ip futaba receiver.
Last but not least, the pic marks posted, does not look like the hole for sterring post arms being lowered as well while the mid braket is. So if upper deck is lowered, how do you put the alu steering post in without the hole being lowered by the same amount? Mark, did you do photoshoping again?
Last edited by Pyramid; 05-09-2005 at 08:23 AM.
Originally posted by Pyramid
You'll find a time Bro!
'One' other thing must be done/revised also for this chassis.. The receiver cover! must be place higher by at least 0.85mm (assuming brother Marks info on 1.85mm lowered) to clear the ground when cornering. Especially for racers with R133ip futaba receiver.
Last but not least, the pic marks posted, does not look like the hole for sterring post arms being lowered as well while the mid braket is. So if upper deck is lowered, how do you put the alu steering post in without the hole being lowered by the same amount? Mark, did you do photoshoping again?
You'll find a time Bro!
'One' other thing must be done/revised also for this chassis.. The receiver cover! must be place higher by at least 0.85mm (assuming brother Marks info on 1.85mm lowered) to clear the ground when cornering. Especially for racers with R133ip futaba receiver.
Last but not least, the pic marks posted, does not look like the hole for sterring post arms being lowered as well while the mid braket is. So if upper deck is lowered, how do you put the alu steering post in without the hole being lowered by the same amount? Mark, did you do photoshoping again?
Me, photoshop
never heard of it
Just checking my measurements and to explain more clearly, the milled out sections of the chassis are 1.1mm except for the channel for the belt which is 0.5mm lower. So the rx unit will sit 1.1mm lower than normal.
The hole for the steering post is also milled out by 1.1mm.
Cheers, Mark.
Originally posted by crashed_1
Now I know who has "THE R I N G"!!!
Now I know who has "THE R I N G"!!!
Originally posted by markp27
Here it is folks - looks very nice - will be changing my chassis over this week.
Cheers, Mark.
Here it is folks - looks very nice - will be changing my chassis over this week.
Cheers, Mark.

Let us know if it gets you into the Salven zone
Tech Elite

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,433
From: Miami, Fl.
Hi everyone,
this is my recommended starting set-up for royal palm in Miami. 37 shore all around
2.5 rear sway bat, all soft inner holes
front sway bar full stiff
drop 0-front 7-rear
default roll center
minus 1 front toe
plus 3 rear toe
front one way
rear diff-medium hard
35wt oil all around 3 holes
yellow front springs
red rear springs
cadi body, a must have for this track, wing as far back as legal
ride height front 5.5, rear 6
3mm caster in front of arms
shock front 2nd hole from bottom, rears layed down
width front 199 rear 200
any questions can be posted, I will do my best to help.
this is my recommended starting set-up for royal palm in Miami. 37 shore all around
2.5 rear sway bat, all soft inner holes
front sway bar full stiff
drop 0-front 7-rear
default roll center
minus 1 front toe
plus 3 rear toe
front one way
rear diff-medium hard
35wt oil all around 3 holes
yellow front springs
red rear springs
cadi body, a must have for this track, wing as far back as legal
ride height front 5.5, rear 6
3mm caster in front of arms
shock front 2nd hole from bottom, rears layed down
width front 199 rear 200
any questions can be posted, I will do my best to help.
Originally posted by dj apolaro
Hi everyone,
this is my recommended starting set-up for royal palm in Miami. 37 shore all around
2.5 rear sway bat, all soft inner holes
front sway bar full stiff
drop 0-front 7-rear
default roll center
minus 1 front toe
plus 3 rear toe
front one way
rear diff-medium hard
35wt oil all around 3 holes
yellow front springs
red rear springs
cadi body, a must have for this track, wing as far back as legal
ride height front 5.5, rear 6
3mm caster in front of arms
shock front 2nd hole from bottom, rears layed down
width front 199 rear 200
any questions can be posted, I will do my best to help.
Hi everyone,
this is my recommended starting set-up for royal palm in Miami. 37 shore all around
2.5 rear sway bat, all soft inner holes
front sway bar full stiff
drop 0-front 7-rear
default roll center
minus 1 front toe
plus 3 rear toe
front one way
rear diff-medium hard
35wt oil all around 3 holes
yellow front springs
red rear springs
cadi body, a must have for this track, wing as far back as legal
ride height front 5.5, rear 6
3mm caster in front of arms
shock front 2nd hole from bottom, rears layed down
width front 199 rear 200
any questions can be posted, I will do my best to help.
What is it about the body that you like? Also, have you tried the madza6?
Tech Elite

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,433
From: Miami, Fl.
I only use the cady body at that track and oakland park. I use the mazda everywhere else. The cadi is good on the smaller tracks, it is more agressive on the steering, but you loose a little bit of the stability, but the serpent is very stable on the rear, so it is o.k. I have tried the mazda and parma alfa, but the cadi is my favorite at the Miami track.
Originally posted by Pyramid
You'll find a time Bro!
You'll find a time Bro!
I am trying but that other old man beat me already! He just told me he's nearly finished and only just got home from work!

'One' other thing must be done/revised also for this chassis.. The receiver cover! must be place higher by at least 0.85mm (assuming brother Marks info on 1.85mm lowered) to clear the ground when cornering. Especially for racers with R133ip futaba receiver.
Last but not least, the pic marks posted, does not look like the hole for sterring post arms being lowered as well while the mid braket is. So if upper deck is lowered, how do you put the alu steering post in without the hole being lowered by the same amount? Mark, did you do photoshoping again?
Originally posted by JustRace
What's the odds of sending your pit monkey one for his birthday or christmas!!! Mark...good thing you don't have a wife that's watching your spending
Let us know if it gets you into the Salven zone
What's the odds of sending your pit monkey one for his birthday or christmas!!! Mark...good thing you don't have a wife that's watching your spending

Let us know if it gets you into the Salven zone
Originally posted by Pyramid
You'll find a time Bro!
'One' other thing must be done/revised also for this chassis.. The receiver cover! must be place higher by at least 0.85mm (assuming brother Marks info on 1.85mm lowered) to clear the ground when cornering. Especially for racers with R133ip futaba receiver.
Last but not least, the pic marks posted, does not look like the hole for sterring post arms being lowered as well while the mid braket is. So if upper deck is lowered, how do you put the alu steering post in without the hole being lowered by the same amount? Mark, did you do photoshoping again?
You'll find a time Bro!
'One' other thing must be done/revised also for this chassis.. The receiver cover! must be place higher by at least 0.85mm (assuming brother Marks info on 1.85mm lowered) to clear the ground when cornering. Especially for racers with R133ip futaba receiver.
Last but not least, the pic marks posted, does not look like the hole for sterring post arms being lowered as well while the mid braket is. So if upper deck is lowered, how do you put the alu steering post in without the hole being lowered by the same amount? Mark, did you do photoshoping again?
Originally posted by clmbia45
Looks like the front bearing blocks and rear brace for the radio tray are both milled out lower, there-by lowering the radio tray, and requiring the lower servo saver post to be lower.
Looks like the front bearing blocks and rear brace for the radio tray are both milled out lower, there-by lowering the radio tray, and requiring the lower servo saver post to be lower.



