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Old 04-25-2005, 08:24 AM   #21226
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Originally posted by markp27
That's not the price that they are looking for You under estimate the true power of the One Ring
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Old 04-25-2005, 10:17 PM   #21227
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Originally posted by InitialD
Ok, ever since I took the grub screws out of the flyweights and ran it just with them mounted in between the pins, I run about 1.5 mm pre-tension and 0.5 mm clutch gap instead of 2 mm clutch gap with the grub screws. Never had a problem with bearing at either setting.

Perhaps with 2 mm pre-tension, your clutch is slipping a lot? Which would explain the temp increase...
InitialD: What grub screws? What did I miss? I'm still running with the same type of fly-weights we cut down when all this was new. Have never had a problem with 6 different engines.
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Old 04-25-2005, 10:18 PM   #21228
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Cheap cheap means how much? Rm100 I take from you...


walau weh.100???u gotta be kidding.it's only 2 months old.and i dun think has even 1 gallong through it.i'm gonnae polished it somemore
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Old 04-25-2005, 11:57 PM   #21229
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Originally posted by clmbia45
InitialD: What grub screws? What did I miss? I'm still running with the same type of fly-weights we cut down when all this was new. Have never had a problem with 6 different engines.
Well, I was testing different flyweight combos... On top of cutting the flyweights and mounting them in BETWEEN the flywheel post, I added two grub screws (M3 x 4) on each flyweights in the respective holes as pic below to make them heavier.



There are others who mount the flyweight as per the manual but add one M3 x 4 grub screw on the end of the flyweight.

Anyway, as what Pyramid mentioned, I found the performance using two grub screws per flyweight a little too "heavy" for my liking and at some points will drag and bog the clutch engagement.

So now, I took out all the grub screws and run the cut flyweights just mounted in between the flyweight pins.
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Old 04-26-2005, 01:25 AM   #21230
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Default Re: Re: droop

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Yes you can. Look at page 5 of the 710 setup booklet. Serpent calls it downstop. You adjust the grub / set screw located on the upper front bumper.

The front bumper with the 3 x 8mm grub / set screw (H11) is shown at the top on page 6 of the 710 manual (Step 1.7).
TC3 droop is a bit confusing. They are not suppot to call it as droop but downstop.
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Old 04-26-2005, 01:37 AM   #21231
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Default Re: Re: Re: droop

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Originally posted by thamjk
TC3 droop is a bit confusing. They are not suppot to call it as droop but downstop.
It can be confusing, as we mix up the terms at times.

The simplest way to think of it is as follows:

Droop is the amount by which the arms droop down - the more droop, the more the arms droop down.

Downstops are related to the screw limiting the amount by which the arms droop. This means the higher the downstop value (i.e. the further the downstop scew is screwed into the arm) the less the arms droop down and the lower the droop value.

I prefer to talk about downstops, as this is what I measure when I set my car up with the hudy tools.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 04-26-2005, 01:42 AM   #21232
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Originally posted by rcjayy
I need help

today I ran my 710 for the first time this year and when I started it up and hit the gas the car did not move, so I kept hitting the gas but the car stayed in place as the engine was reving high. I then looked at the clutch and gears and they were moving but the wheels would not ingage, after a few second I heard a loud click and the car started moving, 2 minutes later it did it again for a few seconds, then it started moving again, then I noticed loud clicks when shifting that I never heard before, I then took the two speed out to check the oneway and I could not turn it with my hand, so it appears to be working, could it be for some reason it sticking in second, but if it was shouldnt the car move slow? does anyone have any ideas I would appreciate it
It seems like you are having the one way bearing problem. My advice here is change the one way bearing and don't waste your time to try troubleshooting it. We have experienced your senario and two crankshaft broke in a week. Imagine if your one way bearing slip with engine runing high rpm and suddenly the one way click in. if your car is at the starter box it is still ok but what if the car on the track. This is worse then the tightest centax clutch in the world.
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Old 04-26-2005, 02:01 AM   #21233
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: droop

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
It can be confusing, as we mix up the terms at times.

The simplest way to think of it is as follows:

Droop is the amount by which the arms droop down - the more droop, the more the arms droop down.

Downstops are related to the screw limiting the amount by which the arms droop. This means the higher the downstop value (i.e. the further the downstop scew is screwed into the arm) the less the arms droop down and the lower the droop value.

I prefer to talk about downstops, as this is what I measure when I set my car up with the hudy tools.

Cheers, Mark.
Actually this is a very interesting topic. For me this is the way I look at droop. The defination is to represent how much is the chasis travel (up/down) while the car is on the track. They are two measurements that is taken to get the droop.

First is the chasis down travel. The down travel most of the time will be the chasis right height and that can be reduce with applying more up stop.

Second is the chasis up travel. The up travel is measured from the relax point to where the tyre just about to left the ground. The up travel can be reduce by applying more down stop.

Sum up that two measurement and that is what i called droop. Notice, its not the same value as down stop, up stop and right height.
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Old 04-26-2005, 02:15 AM   #21234
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: droop

Quote:
Originally posted by thamjk
Actually this is a very interesting topic. For me this is the way I look at droop. The defination is to represent how much is the chasis travel (up/down) while the car is on the track. They are two measurements that is taken to get the droop.

First is the chasis down travel. The down travel most of the time will be the chasis right height and that can be reduce with applying more up stop.

Second is the chasis up travel. The up travel is measured from the relax point to where the tyre just about to left the ground. The up travel can be reduce by applying more down stop.

Sum up that two measurement and that is what i called droop. Notice, its not the same value as down stop, up stop and right height.
Yeah, we've had this conversation a few times before - and it comes down to definitions of terms, etc, etc.

Lets not start it again, as normally it goes over several pages.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 04-26-2005, 05:48 AM   #21235
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Default titanium screws

does Serpent have a titanium screw set for the 710 or do i have to buy them seperately cause i'm finding it hard to get some of the screw size of the 710
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Old 04-26-2005, 05:54 AM   #21236
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Default Re: titanium screws

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Originally posted by buboy28
does Serpent have a titanium screw set for the 710 or do i have to buy them seperately cause i'm finding it hard to get some of the screw size of the 710
There is a kit from East - you can find them here:

http://www.the-border.com/product.ph...&cat=81&page=6
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Old 04-26-2005, 06:40 AM   #21237
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Default Re: titanium screws

Or buy them seperately... Tamiya, Xenon Racing, Speedmind etc sell a lot of M2 button head / countersunk titanium screws.

Just count the number of screws that you need from the manual. Pretty easy. The only thing I found hard to get are titanium cap screws and titanium phillips screws under the chassis. Both you would better off be using steel ones.
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Old 04-26-2005, 07:18 AM   #21238
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Default Re: Re: titanium screws

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
There is a kit from East - you can find them here:

http://www.the-border.com/product.ph...&cat=81&page=6
ok, thanks for the info i may have to order one
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Old 04-26-2005, 07:24 AM   #21239
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Default Re: Re: titanium screws

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Or buy them seperately... Tamiya, Xenon Racing, Speedmind etc sell a lot of M2 button head / countersunk titanium screws.

Just count the number of screws that you need from the manual. Pretty easy. The only thing I found hard to get are titanium cap screws and titanium phillips screws under the chassis. Both you would better off be using steel ones.
i already have the list of the screws and you are right D those titanium cap srew and phillips srew under the chassis are hard to find so i might settle for the whole set as suggested by Mark, thanks
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Old 04-26-2005, 07:37 PM   #21240
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Default Re: Re: titanium screws

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Or buy them seperately... Tamiya, Xenon Racing, Speedmind etc sell a lot of M2 button head / countersunk titanium screws.

Just count the number of screws that you need from the manual. Pretty easy. The only thing I found hard to get are titanium cap screws and titanium phillips screws under the chassis. Both you would better off be using steel ones.
I think most of the screws are M3.

Better to use stainless steel screws for those at the chassis. Stronger. Weight is not important there since it's already low at chassis level.

I do have problem finding the 2 long M4X25 flanged screws(1019) at the front bulkhead in titanium though...
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