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Old 03-29-2004, 03:50 PM   #7126
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Default Initial D , Glow Plug Question?

What is a good glow plug to run on a Novarrosi Hand Modify (turbo) motor using 30% . Outsidec temp range average 90 to 95 Degrees (F)
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Old 03-29-2004, 04:06 PM   #7127
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Quote:
modifying the clutch weights can cause problems. Especially if the weights are not all exacly the same they will lead to improper engagement and wobbeling of the clutch shoe. That leads to the bearing failure.
i toasted on of the bearings that sits against the trus bearing. i think this may have been the problem. i think i am going to leave then stock (on the pins) and wait for may digital caliper to set the end play corectly.

now once i have the caliper though, I can modify them to the milimeter and should not have a problem... ? I was told to cut them bisecting the hole where the pins go.
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Old 03-29-2004, 05:01 PM   #7128
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Waazzzzooooppppp!???

Does anyone know where to buy the SERPENT KAI CONVERSION KIT?

Please post the e-mail addy...
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Old 03-29-2004, 06:23 PM   #7129
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Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
i toasted on of the bearings that sits against the trus bearing. i think this may have been the problem. i think i am going to leave then stock (on the pins) and wait for may digital caliper to set the end play corectly.

now once i have the caliper though, I can modify them to the milimeter and should not have a problem... ? I was told to cut them bisecting the hole where the pins go.
It would be cheaper and easier to use those feeler gauges that are available at an automotive store for the clutch adjustment. I also use the associated the black grease to lube my thrust bearing. I haven't any problems from it since I started using it. Before I figured out I was suppose to use some type of lube (the manual of my car didn't say anything about lube) I only got like five or six runs out of my clutch before my inner clutch bearing went out. (seized up on me) The thrust bearing was on the verge of failing too. One of the balls fell out of place, and caused my clutch to stay engaged.
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Old 03-29-2004, 06:28 PM   #7130
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Default Re: Initial D , Glow Plug Question?

Quote:
Originally posted by Marcos.S710
What is a good glow plug to run on a Novarrosi Hand Modify (turbo) motor using 30% . Outsidec temp range average 90 to 95 Degrees (F)
novarossi/RB #6

IMO
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Old 03-29-2004, 06:43 PM   #7131
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Quote:
Originally posted by xluis
hello for alls, This the best forum in the wolrd, for the 710. I read all nights. My english is not very good, but i reading...litle and litle...
Well, i a electric driver, i love electric cars, XRAY is the best. But for some circunstancies i change for a gas car, my first touring gas, is of course, a serpent 710. I probe it, and with yours posts i help very much. Now im confused with a front roll center, i put de upper arms up, with all the shims down, the roll center is low, ok??, the car turning more and is overturn in the curve, with a lot of grip, no??? and viceversa. Is this correct, or not ?.

Thank you, very much.

LuisC -- Spain --
I had the same problem as you. I would start with a default setting and use the setup book in the last page in color codes to see what your problems are and go step by step from there. Look at it and see how the chart works, it may sounds confusing but once you understand it you will have no problems setting it up. if your still lost then ask more questions on this forum....people here are really nice and helpful good luck
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Old 03-29-2004, 06:44 PM   #7132
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
Just out of curiosity what was really wrong with the 705 compared to the 710 in tuning wise? Was it the design or material that they used that makes the car harder to setup or find a sweet spot?
Nothing was wrong with the 705...........
It was a bit more of a challenge to get a perfect "sweet spot" set-up. The car design was based on the Impact 235mm car that made it more challenging to people that really didn't know how to set up a car without a rear camber link.
I still believe the705 car is a great car that still can run with the best of them. Also I think the 705 is alot more durable then the 710 that makes it a very good car!!
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Old 03-29-2004, 08:14 PM   #7133
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Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
I am using the one that came with the kit
Then it's the golden spring which is softer. Loosen the pre-tension nut and your clutch should engage without slipping.
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Old 03-29-2004, 08:16 PM   #7134
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
Like D said, "you can learn it the hard way like me"....I dont think I need to learn the hard way, just the best way, take it to someone who is experienced.
Any method of learning is good. The difference is if you learned it yourself, you'll remember it better and what to do and don't do. Learning from someone else is also good as this is a faster and a more direct process of learning. But that is if you have someone who is willing to teach and show it to you ! When I learned how to set the Centax clutch on my Impulse PRO (Japan version comes with the older Centax I clutch), nobody was using it. I had to dig the forums and mytsn to understand how it actually works and what makes it work properly. I'm still learning though.
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Old 03-29-2004, 08:17 PM   #7135
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Quote:
Originally posted by cox049
What life span/ duration do you guys get on the centax thrust bearing?
After 2 years of using the Centax I clutch (smaller 4x9x4 thrust bearing) on the Impulse PRO, I'm still using the same original one that came with the kit. The same with the Centax II on the 705 and the Centax 3 on the 710.

Yes, you need to lube it. I'd recommend the Mugen Super Grease (B0308). It's sticky and last a very long time.

Secondly, shim the end play after the clutch assembly as per Step 8.7 on page 28 of the assembly manual.

Thirdly and most importantly, make sure the larger inner diameter ring (5.2 mm) is placed first nearest to the clutch shoes and the smaller inner diameter (5.0 mm) to the outermost ! This will prevent the thrust bearings from spinning at the same RPM as the engine and toasting your thrust bearings.

When all this is done, you'll run your thrust bearing till your LHS will curse you for not having to change one !
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Old 03-29-2004, 08:19 PM   #7136
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Quote:
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
The length of time they last varies with several key things. They require greasing constantly to keep the dirt out. We actually take them out between every 5min qualifier and regrease.
I have not greased my thrust bearings for about nearly a month already. The last outing was a race with 3 qualifiers and a 20 minute main. The grease is still there.

Quote:
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
The other thing that would blow one after a days running is that the clutch is not shimmed correct. Bad set up of the clutch will have you sticking in new thrust bearings every other run. Make sure the external shims are correct to minimise the amount of wobble on the bell.
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Old 03-29-2004, 08:20 PM   #7137
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Quote:
Originally posted by BaxterC
I am wonderring if the guys blowing the thrust bearing have boen the clutch mod or are running the book setup? reason I ask is I want to know if it is the book setup that blows the bearings or the mod?
Whichever you choose to use (mod or unmod), remember to grease the thrust bearing and shim it as per Step 8.7 and you'll be fine.
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Old 03-29-2004, 08:22 PM   #7138
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do i need to grease the 2 small bearing shims and spacer???? + the thrust bearing?
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Old 03-29-2004, 08:22 PM   #7139
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Quote:
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
I stripped the clutch down and went to a 0.3mm gap instead of the stated 0.7mm and have not changed a thrust bearing since.
The reason for this is too much end play AFTER you install the clutch with the thrust bearings. Too much end play as a result of not shimming as per step 8.7 causes a lot of excess force to hammer on the thrust bearing. At 0.7 mm gap, the higher the velocity and impact of the shoe on the clutch bell and indirectly on the thrust bearing. Hence more agressive. The smaller gap like 0.3 or 0.4 mm, the clutch engagement is smoother. Wheel spin is also less. Better for tighter tracks.
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Old 03-29-2004, 08:23 PM   #7140
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Quote:
Originally posted by cox049
For the record: I don't have the clutch mod and my shimms were on the loose side... I think I'll set it up a little tighter - closer to .4mm -
It does not matter if you set 0.7 mm or 0.4 mm. Just shim the end play as per step 8.7 and you will be fine.

0.4 mm gives very smooth engagement while 0.7 mm will give you very agressive clutch engagement. You may want to tighten the clutch pre-tension nut a little if you use 0.4 mm in order not to bog down the engine with too fast clutch engagement. Take your pick.

Quote:
Originally posted by cox049
I didn't have a spare and bought a mugen bearing at the track. It looks the same
They are the same bearing size. As long as you can get any 5x10x4 thrust bearing, they should be fine.
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