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Old 08-10-2005, 02:47 AM   #22006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Vader
D,

Which has more bite? As in higher coefficient of friction. The yellow shoe or the ori black shoe?
http://www.mytsn.com/forums/forum.as...2471&pid=10063
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Old 08-10-2005, 02:48 AM   #22007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _cyclops_
At the gouda track (small and tight) i saw rick cut up a yellow shoe in tree, and then using it like the normal weights would be used.. this was for the 710....
Using it like normal weights would mean mounting the flyweights into the flywheel pins as per the manual or IN BETWEEN the flywheel pins?
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Old 08-10-2005, 02:51 AM   #22008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
D, so you cut the flyweights in lieu of cutting up a clutch shoe? Do you cut off the end without the hole... meaning do you leave the hole in the flyweight?
I left the original hole in each of my flyweights after I cut it up. Somebody pointed out that it may not be good as it'll create imbalance with just one hole at the side. I guess you could cut it out when you trim the flyweight to fit in between the flywheel pins?

Anyway, some time late last year, I drilled another hole on the opposite side of each flyweights so that with two holes on each flyweight, I could mount 2 each M3x4 grub screws. After that, I found the clutch was better without those grub screws and now all the flyweights have two holes each on opposite sides.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
Do you have a picture of how Rick/you lighten the flyweights?
No I don't. It's not the flyweight that was lightened. It was the clutch shoes !

Just ream out with the bodyshell reamer and create several dimples on the back surface of the clutch shoe. Make sure the holes do not get to the front side surface of the clutch shoe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
How much preload and gap do you use with this setup? I am assuming the use of a yellow clutch and stiff spring.
If I recall, it's about 1.5 to 1.7mm. But that measurement would depend on the track. I suggest to set the tension of the Centax spring at the track.

Don't you have any Serpent guy that can help you at the track side in Florida?
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Old 08-10-2005, 03:17 AM   #22009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InitialD
Using it like normal weights would mean mounting the flyweights into the flywheel pins as per the manual or IN BETWEEN the flywheel pins?

as per manual, he did, idd...
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Old 08-10-2005, 05:18 AM   #22010
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InitialD:

Thankyou once again for your imput I have always found the support for Serpent to be alot better then that of other cars i have owned. This being both from the factory an fellow racers, come Christmas i will have to see what Santa brings

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Old 08-10-2005, 06:26 AM   #22011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InitialD
Where's that old bloke sparsky?

Well, in RC you need to be very patient. There are some days when nothing will work correctly.
InitialD: I think he is out bush on tatical manovures...
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Old 08-10-2005, 06:30 AM   #22012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InitialD
I left the original hole in each of my flyweights after I cut it up. Somebody pointed out that it may not be good as it'll create imbalance with just one hole at the side. I guess you could cut it out when you trim the flyweight to fit in between the flywheel pins?

Anyway, some time late last year, I drilled another hole on the opposite side of each flyweights so that with two holes on each flyweight, I could mount 2 each M3x4 grub screws. After that, I found the clutch was better without those grub screws and now all the flyweights have two holes each on opposite sides.



No I don't. It's not the flyweight that was lightened. It was the clutch shoes !

Just ream out with the bodyshell reamer and create several dimples on the back surface of the clutch shoe. Make sure the holes do not get to the front side surface of the clutch shoe.



If I recall, it's about 1.5 to 1.7mm. But that measurement would depend on the track. I suggest to set the tension of the Centax spring at the track.

Don't you have any Serpent guy that can help you at the track side in Florida?

InitialD: Because i am still trying to get a grasp on these clutch mods, i have another silly question for you

You said before that your modified flyweights had holes in them from previous attempts with grub screws... If someone was to cut the flyweight to sit in between the clutch pins without the holes in them will this have an impact at all?

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Old 08-10-2005, 07:09 AM   #22013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg M
What did you use to trim down the top of the cover?
manual milling machine
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Old 08-10-2005, 07:31 AM   #22014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear
If someone was to cut the flyweight to sit in between the clutch pins without the holes in them will this have an impact at all?
It if had any impact, it would not be so significant like night and day but I'm just guessing...

Perhaps if I can get a new set of flyweights, I'll try starting it out from scratch.
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Old 08-10-2005, 12:41 PM   #22015
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Thanks everyone for your help on my clutch problem. Anyway, can anyone tell me where I can order serpent parts/optional parts from in U.S? Can I order from serpent directly? Can someone give me a link directly to them? Thanks!
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Old 08-10-2005, 02:44 PM   #22016
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So JAg, how did the new setup work?
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Old 08-10-2005, 06:11 PM   #22017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyramid
manual milling machine

The key word here is "manual"
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Old 08-10-2005, 09:35 PM   #22018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gfd2726
Thanks everyone for your help on my clutch problem. Anyway, can anyone tell me where I can order serpent parts/optional parts from in U.S? Can I order from serpent directly? Can someone give me a link directly to them? Thanks!
Hi GFD,
We have a few dealers in California. Please send me an email to [email protected] and let me know your location to give youa list of the nearest dealers

Thanks

Paolo Morganti
Serpent USA
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Old 08-11-2005, 05:44 AM   #22019
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Paolo...congrats on the double win at the Great Lakes Challenge. I hope to see a really good report on Mytsn I'm sure it's alot easier writing after a victory. BTW...you should tell Scotty he needs to start posting.
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Old 08-11-2005, 07:29 AM   #22020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
So JAg, how did the new setup work?
Funny you should ask Julius, I finally got to take the car to the track last night. I got there a little late and I had not finished setting the car up so I did it at the track. I rushed thru the setup and got the car on the track. It was working pretty well but the steering wasn't great (understeer). I ran 2 tanks before I noticed that, in my haste, I forgot to attach the rear sway bar. I fixed that and sent it back out... WOW! The car has more steering now than it ever has. I had to turn down the D/R on my radio. I was turning into the rails all over the place. Now my problem is traction rolling. I have 37's on the car but I think I need 40's or 42's. Last week I ran a tank with 40's and they weren't working for me. Now the 37's aren't working. The front end is great but the rear is only pretty good.

Now my question is, when I switch to 40's the rear will probably get a little worse (more loose). What should I do to get more bite in the rear?

My setup is:
Droop:
F - 0
R - 6

Ride Height:
F & R 5 mm

Camber:
F - 1.5
R - 3

Toe:
F - 1 (out)
R - 3

Sway Bar:
F - Flat
R - Stock (2mm from end)

Diff:
F - Slightly loose
R - Medium

Shocks:
F - Red springs, 35 wt, 3 holes, mounted 1 hole up from lowest
R - Red springs, 35 wt, 3 holes, mounted 1 hole up from lowest

Roll Center:
F - stock
R - Lower (up), Upper (inside middle)

I was thinking about increasing the rear toe and/or tightening the rear diff. What do you think?

Thanks for your help. I think the car is very close and it is a major improvement. A little more rear traction and get the clutch right and the car will be excellent.

Thanks again,
jag
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