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Old 05-19-2005, 09:23 PM   #21481
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Originally posted by Darth Vader
One of the most shear resistant lubricants that I have come across is auto transmission fluid. I think this would work really well at areas where there is high shear like dogbones and gears, etc.

I have yet to try it in r/c though...
Dust and fine sand are a huge problem in the desert. ANY lubricant that does not dry turns to oily mud in the outdrives. Hence I use moly when I'm assembling the car and teflon between tear-downs. Minimal wear.
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Old 05-19-2005, 09:40 PM   #21482
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Quote:
Originally posted by Darth Vader
One of the most shear resistant lubricants that I have come across is auto transmission fluid. I think this would work really well at areas where there is high shear like dogbones and gears, etc.

I have yet to try it in r/c though...
ATF that's what I use when I run out of after runs oil.
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Old 05-19-2005, 11:31 PM   #21483
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I always use ATF in my engine, its cheap and does the job.
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Old 05-20-2005, 12:27 AM   #21484
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Could someone explain to me how the DRS system work? sorry im new here >_<;
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Old 05-20-2005, 02:10 AM   #21485
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Default Re: Help! Engine Screws

Quote:
Originally posted by fulcrum2
Hi there!


I have a serious problem with my engine mount screws (under the chassis) M4x10 #802551

I canīt open two of them. Having them fastened by hand with a Hudy driver and no threadlock a couple of weeks ago, I canīt open two of them with the same driver!
The driver is already broken and the screwheads are badly damaged by now. Here are my questions:

How could this happen? Is the heat of the engine seizing the screws in the chassis?

What can I do to prevent this from happening in the future?

And the most important question, how can I get those screws out?
Drilling? Cut a groove in the head and use a flathead screwdriver? Weld another screw or tool to the heads?

What has worked for you?


Andy advice would be appreciated...
woaw it seems you are having hard time dealing with the engine mounting screw. At this stage you wouldn't have any other choice then cutting the screw as discribe by markp27. I am not sure if the screws will resize after a period of time but if you tightern hard at first place then you will find it more difficult to open next time. As for me I don't tightern it very hard but just nice up to a point where its comfortable to open. You may need to find the right torgue or pressure by doing it repeatedly few times.

If in the case next time you are unable to open again you might need someone to hold the car for you so that you can keep the hudy screw driver perppendicular and apply as amuch as down pressure you can to open it.
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Old 05-20-2005, 02:25 AM   #21486
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Quote:
Originally posted by redsand
Speaking of the grease for all around use. I have found this Molydbenum Disulphide spray Lube at Ace Hardware and used it by spraying it on the balls, diff plates, dog bone tips & wheel axles with a very very good results.

[IMG]Molydbenum Disulphide spray Lube[/IMG]
maybe you can discribe abit. How good is this grease? Do you find anything special as compare to other grease?
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Old 05-20-2005, 02:46 AM   #21487
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Quote:
Originally posted by Darth Vader
One of the most shear resistant lubricants that I have come across is auto transmission fluid. I think this would work really well at areas where there is high shear like dogbones and gears, etc.

I have yet to try it in r/c though...
My old man is an industrial chemist and has worked for all the major oil companies developing lubricants and he swears by ATF .... I use this for most things as well.......
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Old 05-20-2005, 04:22 AM   #21488
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Quote:
Originally posted by acutts
My old man is an industrial chemist and has worked for all the major oil companies developing lubricants and he swears by ATF .... I use this for most things as well.......
I do have one concern with regards to using ATF as after run oil. What is the residue after combustion? Maybe acutts can check with his dad on that...
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Old 05-20-2005, 08:06 AM   #21489
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Will do ... I'll give him a call this weekend ..!
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Old 05-20-2005, 03:33 PM   #21490
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Quote:
Originally posted by ogreasurada
Could someone explain to me how the DRS system work? sorry im new here >_<;
Do you have the car? Its best to read the set-up book that comes with it. Much easier than explaining it here.
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Old 05-20-2005, 05:56 PM   #21491
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I am thinking about getting either V1RRR WCE or Serpent 710. I am out for many yrs, and trying to get back in it. I have picked the motor and radio:
OS 12TZ(p) T5 and 3pk and KO 2364 servos. All opinions are welcomed. Also, which shop offers the lowest price ? Thx.
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Old 05-21-2005, 02:19 AM   #21492
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I know its along way off, but already starting to think about the Worlds and Pre-Worlds. I don't know what my chances are to qualify, but want to try and get to the Pre-Worlds at least if I don't.

Anyone else planning on going? Had a run on the track? Got a set up?
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Old 05-21-2005, 03:01 AM   #21493
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Quote:
Originally posted by silverM3
I am thinking about getting either V1RRR WCE or Serpent 710. I am out for many yrs, and trying to get back in it. I have picked the motor and radio:
OS 12TZ(p) T5 and 3pk and KO 2364 servos. All opinions are welcomed. Also, which shop offers the lowest price ? Thx.
I invite you to go to 3hobby.net and look there for a 2-part hands on review of the RRR. Plus a video of the test is also there.
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Old 05-21-2005, 03:02 AM   #21494
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Quote:
Originally posted by Greg M
I know its along way off, but already starting to think about the Worlds and Pre-Worlds. I don't know what my chances are to qualify, but want to try and get to the Pre-Worlds at least if I don't.

Anyone else planning on going? Had a run on the track? Got a set up?
Greg, with NZ being a stone's throw away from Brisbane, you really should at least go for the pre-worlds.
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Old 05-21-2005, 03:06 AM   #21495
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Thats the plan, but comes down to $$, a house is a priority, but this is a once in a life time opportunity. I should definately be at the pre worlds. Big problem for us is our qualifying, so far there isn't one, so looks like a CV approach is going to be used. I have only just got into 1/10 and the only big meetings including the Nationals I ran a CD3 and barely finished a race. The 710 is a different story and was swapping the lead with the national champ until my battery pack died last weekend. I just need to get as much track time and prove to the national body that I should go to the worlds.
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