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Old 03-22-2005, 07:17 PM   #20716
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Default Re: Rubber Tire Setup for 710

Shiloh, have you tried looking for setups made by British drivers? Some of them run with rubber tires only.

Look for Paul Knapton's 710 setups on mytsn. He runs the car competitively in the UK Rubber series.
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Old 03-23-2005, 06:11 AM   #20717
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Originally posted by Sow&Steady
I don't wish it to anyone to lose USD 350 in one pop, gets accused as a potential theif of a customer and never see a single item delivered!
It will turns out lah unckle Sow... someday.

I came across you dirty car in your site, and notice you have installed the brake disk with the vented area forward.. well, hard to mean by forward or backward. Anyhow, why not the vented facing the other way around?

here is the link to the picture (I guess we must be a member and logged on to see it huh uncle sow),

http://3hobby.net/modules.php?name=c...595&fullsize=1
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Old 03-23-2005, 06:19 AM   #20718
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 950R question

Quote:
Originally posted by jag
I turned the lever forward 1 tooth and shortened the link almost as short as it would go (without modifying it) and it turned out perfect. The servo saver lever is centered and I get about 26 degrees of steering both ways.
Yes, I believe that`s the way we all should do it. But we also need to readjust the the servo link everytime you change camber, especially when changing from runing clockwise to counterclockwise. If I remember it correctly, the discussion was on having the lever at 90deg angle with the servo (so pointed straight to the top) and adjust the servo link to get the car running straight, wasn`t it? then I replied that was impossible to do to have the L/R steering at the same radius with the servo saver lever on its center (by turning the servo link obviously) WITHOUT adjusting the steering link (so L/R steering link will be different while it should have been the same in S710).
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Old 03-23-2005, 07:18 AM   #20719
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 950R question

Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
Yes, I believe that`s the way we all should do it. But we also need to readjust the the servo link everytime you change camber, especially when changing from runing clockwise to counterclockwise. If I remember it correctly, the discussion was on having the lever at 90deg angle with the servo (so pointed straight to the top) and adjust the servo link to get the car running straight, wasn`t it? then I replied that was impossible to do to have the L/R steering at the same radius with the servo saver lever on its center (by turning the servo link obviously) WITHOUT adjusting the steering link (so L/R steering link will be different while it should have been the same in S710).
I agree (I think). Lean the lever forward and shorten the rod to center the servo saver... right? If you don't lean it forward, the link will bind on the servo.

The thing I found strange is that the steering is perfect on the 950R with 100% EPA on my radio but with my 710 I have to adjust the EPA to get the steering equal left and right. My 710 turns further in one direction.
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Old 03-23-2005, 08:06 AM   #20720
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 950R question

Quote:
Originally posted by jag
The thing I found strange is that the steering is perfect on the 950R with 100% EPA on my radio but with my 710 I have to adjust the EPA to get the steering equal left and right. My 710 turns further in one direction.
That's the thing I'm trying to point it out Jag. I guess D could help me out here with all his complete vocabulary

In order to have EPA the same for both L/R on your S710 (you just hit the correct spot on 950R) is that you must play with your steering trim rate (the angle of the servo horn attached to your servo) and recenter the servo saver (lengthen or shorten the link) then put it back on the hudy setup until you have the same reading. So the key is only on your servo horn angle. As fas as I could remember, when you shorten the servo turnbuckle link by 0.3mm, you need to advance your subtrim by 5 points (on 3PK). But dont spent to much time on this, as I mentioned, if you change your front camber just a little bit, those EPA L/R need to be adjusted again. The same case goes to when you are not having the same size of L/R tires (even the conical shape is the same) due to tire wear on a particular track, the car won run straight either. It is very common to adjust the EPA between 5 points prior to race on a particular track/layout at that day.
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Old 03-23-2005, 08:25 AM   #20721
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
It will turns out lah unckle Sow... someday.
Bro Pyramid, I hope so. I hope so. And I hope it doesn't come only when I'm too old to even drive a lawnmower!

When it does, I will surely post it on the thread back at 3Hobby just so that people know.

Quote:
I came across you dirty car in your site, and notice you have installed the brake disk with the vented area forward.. well, hard to mean by forward or backward. Anyhow, why not the vented facing the other way around?

here is the link to the picture (I guess we must be a member and logged on to see it huh uncle sow),

http://3hobby.net/modules.php?name=c...595&fullsize=1 [/B]
Ayo! My friend, that's a really old picture. No wonder I haven't won the National Championship! you never look at it early enough to warn me!

Thanks, I will reverse it to try. I normally do it that way because I thought with the rotation, I'd like for the muck to be "driven" outwards rather than inwards. Don't know why, just my gut feeling.
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Old 03-23-2005, 08:38 AM   #20722
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Bro Pyramid, I hope so. I hope so. And I hope it doesn't come only when I'm too old to even drive a lawnmower!
You're not far away from it Onkel Sow.

Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Thanks, I will reverse it to try. I normally do it that way because I thought with the rotation, I'd like for the muck to be "driven" outwards rather than inwards. Don't know why, just my gut feeling.
I tried putting it reversed. I thought I didn't like the feeling during braking. With the 9606 vented disc and 9607 race brake pads, I thought the brakes grabbed more agressively which I did not like. More like an off / on thingy. Installing it the vented disc the way you did made for a more linear feeling on the brakes. My dua kupang.
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Old 03-23-2005, 08:44 AM   #20723
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 950R question

Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
That's the thing I'm trying to point it out Jag. I guess D could help me out here with all his complete vocabulary

In order to have EPA the same for both L/R on your S710 (you just hit the correct spot on 950R) is that you must play with your steering trim rate (the angle of the servo horn attached to your servo) and recenter the servo saver (lengthen or shorten the link) then put it back on the hudy setup until you have the same reading. So the key is only on your servo horn angle. As fas as I could remember, when you shorten the servo turnbuckle link by 0.3mm, you need to advance your subtrim by 5 points (on 3PK). But dont spent to much time on this, as I mentioned, if you change your front camber just a little bit, those EPA L/R need to be adjusted again. The same case goes to when you are not having the same size of L/R tires (even the conical shape is the same) due to tire wear on a particular track, the car won run straight either. It is very common to adjust the EPA between 5 points prior to race on a particular track/layout at that day.
Are you saying that you rotate the servo saver (by adjusting the length of the link) to get equal steering L&R? So the servo saver may not be perfectly centered? I never thought of doing it that way. Is that the way you do it or do you fix it with the radio?
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Old 03-23-2005, 08:49 AM   #20724
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 950R question

Quote:
Originally posted by jag
Are you saying that you rotate the servo saver (by adjusting the length of the link) to get equal steering L&R? So the servo saver may not be perfectly centered? I never thought of doing it that way. Is that the way you do it or do you fix it with the radio?
Jag, I remember Julius mentioning that it is normal if you have to use the EPA on the Tx to trim it about 10 points of so difference between left and right steering throw...
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Old 03-23-2005, 09:04 AM   #20725
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 950R question

Quote:
Originally posted by jag
Are you saying that you rotate the servo saver (by adjusting the length of the link) to get equal steering L&R? So the servo saver may not be perfectly centered? I never thought of doing it that way. Is that the way you do it or do you fix it with the radio?
It may not be perfectly center.. YES, why? that would happened in the case of not having L/R camber at the same rate.

But if you adjust the servo linkage (from horn to servo saver), you should then adjust the servo angle (horn angle to its turnbuckle links) again to make the servo saver back to its centermost point.

For your reff,

Steering Linkage
In case you found out that turning radius for left and right is different while the steering linkage (from servo saver to knuckles) are both already in the same length, what you need to do is to adjust the servo linkage (from servo horn to servo saver). Do not follow the manual length measurement, different brand of servo will sit differently. Just make sure when looking at the car (front of car facing you), the servo saver is in its center of chassis, then adjust the servo linkage until you get same maximum steering throw for both left and right (remember, steering linkage measurement must be the same). Rule of thumb, make the servo horn to be at 90 degree angle with the servo linkage.



The use of around 3x15mm grub screw style combined with Xray ball cup (XR-352670 which is the same appearance with serpent but slimmer dimension) is very useful for this matter to get shorter length and clear the rubbing with front belt for some servo brands. Please refer to picture above which uses precision shims to slightly adjust the linkage for perfect L/R steering end point adjustment.
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Old 03-23-2005, 09:11 AM   #20726
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 950R question

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Jag, I remember Julius mentioning that it is normal if you have to use the EPA on the Tx to trim it about 10 points of so difference between left and right steering throw...
Good. That's the way I have done it on my 710.
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Old 03-23-2005, 09:14 AM   #20727
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: 950R question

Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
It may not be perfectly center.. YES, why? that would happened in the case of not having L/R camber at the same rate.

But if you adjust the servo linkage (from horn to servo saver), you should then adjust the servo angle (horn angle to its turnbuckle links) again to make the servo saver back to its centermost point.

For your reff,

Steering Linkage
In case you found out that turning radius for left and right is different while the steering linkage (from servo saver to knuckles) are both already in the same length, what you need to do is to adjust the servo linkage (from servo horn to servo saver). Do not follow the manual length measurement, different brand of servo will sit differently. Just make sure when looking at the car (front of car facing you), the servo saver is in its center of chassis, then adjust the servo linkage until you get same maximum steering throw for both left and right (remember, steering linkage measurement must be the same). Rule of thumb, make the servo horn to be at 90 degree angle with the servo linkage.



The use of around 3x15mm grub screw style combined with Xray ball cup (XR-352670 which is the same appearance with serpent but slimmer dimension) is very useful for this matter to get shorter length and clear the rubbing with front belt for some servo brands. Please refer to picture above which uses precision shims to slightly adjust the linkage for perfect L/R steering end point adjustment.
I am about to change my steering servo so when I do I will check it out.

Thanks guys.
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Old 03-27-2005, 02:13 PM   #20728
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Default N Z Nats

Hello people we have just finished our NZ nationals and i have finshed third with my 710/mega with the top two bieng at there home track, what i am trying to say is this car is excellent with the mega engine. After the race people hopefully are more aware of the 710 in this country, and i know that there is alot of people wanting the new mega engine after this. 90% of the field were MTX-3's with a few G4's also doing well.
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Old 03-27-2005, 02:15 PM   #20729
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Default 710 parts

I am selling these parts, worth your time to take a look
710 parts
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Old 03-27-2005, 02:34 PM   #20730
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Default Re: N Z Nats

Quote:
Originally posted by Brett.w
Hello people we have just finished our NZ nationals and i have finshed third with my 710/mega with the top two bieng at there home track, what i am trying to say is this car is excellent with the mega engine. After the race people hopefully are more aware of the 710 in this country, and i know that there is alot of people wanting the new mega engine after this. 90% of the field were MTX-3's with a few G4's also doing well.
Well done Brett.
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