RC10B4.1 FT/WC
03-01-2012 | 03:22 PM
Viper's gear different than most other 13.5T's due to the lower Kv rating
my 13.5 is geared at 25/84 in my SC10 and 17.5T is 32(33)/72 in my B4.1
try 33//75 in your Buggy with the 13.5
Check temp after 2 mins than again at 5
My motor comes off at 140 after 7 mins
my 13.5 is geared at 25/84 in my SC10 and 17.5T is 32(33)/72 in my B4.1
try 33//75 in your Buggy with the 13.5
Check temp after 2 mins than again at 5
My motor comes off at 140 after 7 mins
03-01-2012 | 04:29 PM
03-01-2012 | 04:41 PM
30 75 for me full timing is so fast and runs no more than 120. The mod guys ask if i put in a 10.5 
To run in with less torque bc these have more torque then the other motors, gear up, i going to try 33 75 and make it somewhat hot. 140 after 10 min is my goal ...i put a 17.5 in my car, feels dead.
To run in with less torque bc these have more torque then the other motors, gear up, i going to try 33 75 and make it somewhat hot. 140 after 10 min is my goal ...i put a 17.5 in my car, feels dead.
03-01-2012 | 05:12 PM
For those of you running velcro on your bodies, have any of you just eliminated the rear tab that normally goes over the pin for the body clip? A buddy of mine bought a used b4.1 and they had it cut clean in the back with no tab, and in my eyes seems it would work well. I'm still using body clips but eventually that tab starts to crack off, my dad has velcro but still has the tab with no clip and it seems to slowly be cracking a bit too. I have a body being painted by a local guy and I plan to actually take care of it and thought about removing the tab to help it last a tad bit longer, any one else do this?
03-01-2012 | 08:29 PM
Hex Conversions?
Are the hex conversions for the B4.1 (front and/or rear) really worth it?
Trying to sort-out need items versus want items for my B4.1 build and the only advantage I can see right now is that you "capture" the roll pin on the rear so you cannot lose it (assuming you are using the clamp-on style hex piece from JConcepts or Proline).
Thanks in advance.
JB
Trying to sort-out need items versus want items for my B4.1 build and the only advantage I can see right now is that you "capture" the roll pin on the rear so you cannot lose it (assuming you are using the clamp-on style hex piece from JConcepts or Proline).
Thanks in advance.
JB
03-01-2012 | 08:33 PM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,974
From: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
Are the hex conversions for the B4.1 (front and/or rear) really worth it?
Trying to sort-out need items versus want items for my B4.1 build and the only advantage I can see right now is that you "capture" the roll pin on the rear so you cannot lose it (assuming you are using the clamp-on style hex piece from JConcepts or Proline).
Thanks in advance.
JB
Trying to sort-out need items versus want items for my B4.1 build and the only advantage I can see right now is that you "capture" the roll pin on the rear so you cannot lose it (assuming you are using the clamp-on style hex piece from JConcepts or Proline).
Thanks in advance.
JB
03-01-2012 | 09:04 PM
The rear hexes are nice... and if a nut isn't fully tight they are less likely to spin on the hex than a pin. The fronts were really convenient, but my c clips gave way and caused issues (had the nut too tight trying to avoid losing a front wheel like the losis are prone to) On a practice lap, the c clip bound the axle when it was rubbing the kingpin, and by the end of the race a bearing had exploded. I'm back to pin fronts since the convenience isn't worth a dnf.
03-01-2012 | 09:11 PM