Losi XXX-S
#811
Originally posted by futureal
Troy: Remember that since you are using that dumb reverse order view, the Message #'s are practically meaningless, since with each post all of the numbers are incremented. Real men use normal thread ordering!
Troy: Remember that since you are using that dumb reverse order view, the Message #'s are practically meaningless, since with each post all of the numbers are incremented. Real men use normal thread ordering!
#812
When you say droop #2 that means that when you slide the droop gauge under the chassis it rest on the 2 on the gauge. I think that is what they mean. I don't understand how you can't get 2 though becuase I cut half the threads off the shock shaft and the 1/8 off the cup and I am running my front droop at 2 right now. I would think that running super super short shafts would make the lower droop settings easy to achieve butthe higher droop settings harder. Maybe I am wrong.
Mike
Mike
#813
Tech Apprentice
Originally posted by mike_Webb
When you say droop #2 that means that when you slide the droop gauge under the chassis it rest on the 2 on the gauge. I think that is what they mean. I don't understand how you can't get 2 though becuase I cut half the threads off the shock shaft and the 1/8 off the cup and I am running my front droop at 2 right now. I would think that running super super short shafts would make the lower droop settings easy to achieve butthe higher droop settings harder. Maybe I am wrong.
Mike
When you say droop #2 that means that when you slide the droop gauge under the chassis it rest on the 2 on the gauge. I think that is what they mean. I don't understand how you can't get 2 though becuase I cut half the threads off the shock shaft and the 1/8 off the cup and I am running my front droop at 2 right now. I would think that running super super short shafts would make the lower droop settings easy to achieve butthe higher droop settings harder. Maybe I am wrong.
Mike
#814
Tech Apprentice
Can someone please explain exactly what a front oneway bearing will do for my TripleXS? I see they are available now. I also see racers saying, "man, this oneway gives my car so much corner speed!" How exactly does the oneway "give" more cornerspeed? I am very new to TC racing. And the TripleXS is my FIRST TC!
#816
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Addict-
The Losi guage measures droop by how much higher the tips of hte arms are above the bottom of the chassis. Mark #2 on the Losi gauge simply means the arms are 2mm higher than the bottom of the chassis. However, position #2 has more droop than position #4, as the arms drop lower when you run position #2. See what I mean?
WHITESTER-
With a front one-way, your car will have no front brakes - the front wheels will free-wheel when you are off power or braking. If the front wheels are not doing any braking, then they are more able to steer the car. If the front tires are responsible for slowing the car down(braking), they are sliding(scrubbing) on the track. When you turn the wheels to go around a corner, since they are already sliding, their ability to steer the car is reduced.
I prefer a one-way on most tracks, as it really suits my driving style. You will have to develop good control of the brakes, and be smooth, but the laptimes will be reduced as a result.
The Losi guage measures droop by how much higher the tips of hte arms are above the bottom of the chassis. Mark #2 on the Losi gauge simply means the arms are 2mm higher than the bottom of the chassis. However, position #2 has more droop than position #4, as the arms drop lower when you run position #2. See what I mean?
WHITESTER-
With a front one-way, your car will have no front brakes - the front wheels will free-wheel when you are off power or braking. If the front wheels are not doing any braking, then they are more able to steer the car. If the front tires are responsible for slowing the car down(braking), they are sliding(scrubbing) on the track. When you turn the wheels to go around a corner, since they are already sliding, their ability to steer the car is reduced.
I prefer a one-way on most tracks, as it really suits my driving style. You will have to develop good control of the brakes, and be smooth, but the laptimes will be reduced as a result.
#817
Tech Apprentice
Sir Speedy-
Thanks alot for your detailed explanation. I really like this forum. Everyone is chalked full of info. Since I am only running stock class, I probably will not be needing the oneway bearing then. I never use the breaks in stock.. LOL Too slow for brakes LMAO!
Thanks alot for your detailed explanation. I really like this forum. Everyone is chalked full of info. Since I am only running stock class, I probably will not be needing the oneway bearing then. I never use the breaks in stock.. LOL Too slow for brakes LMAO!
#818
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
I would say that the one-way would be even more important in stock than in modified.
The car will steer so quickly and efficiently, it will maintain a great deal of cornerspeed. Cornerspeed = low laptimes.
The reason you are not using brakes, is that stock motors have a braking effect when you let off the throttle. A stock motor scrubs off speed in that respect.
If you are racing on a high-traction surface, a one-way is the way to go in my opinion.
The car will steer so quickly and efficiently, it will maintain a great deal of cornerspeed. Cornerspeed = low laptimes.
The reason you are not using brakes, is that stock motors have a braking effect when you let off the throttle. A stock motor scrubs off speed in that respect.
If you are racing on a high-traction surface, a one-way is the way to go in my opinion.
#819
Tech Apprentice
Okay great then Sir Speedy. You wouldn't happen to have a part # handy now would ya???
#821
Jeff,
Try the stock setup first then try using Rons setup at www.teamlosi.com.
That way you can get a feel for a hard vs. soft setup car.
You might be able to find some answers in the FAQ listed below. As for the one-way, it should work well on highbite surfaces regardless of indoors and outdoors. I have used the oneway as well for med bite outdoors on concrete flowing track.
If you are just getting into the car. Suggest you run the diffs first and once you feel comfortable move to the one way. Although the one-way is faster in some conditions there are reasons why real race cars rely heavily on braking.
Try the stock setup first then try using Rons setup at www.teamlosi.com.
That way you can get a feel for a hard vs. soft setup car.
You might be able to find some answers in the FAQ listed below. As for the one-way, it should work well on highbite surfaces regardless of indoors and outdoors. I have used the oneway as well for med bite outdoors on concrete flowing track.
If you are just getting into the car. Suggest you run the diffs first and once you feel comfortable move to the one way. Although the one-way is faster in some conditions there are reasons why real race cars rely heavily on braking.
#822
mark, or sir speedy, i have been runing my car on carpet, w\ rubber, and the car seemes to dump over in the corner, i am thinking of going to a hard setup....blue, or purple.....front, silver or blue rear...what do you think??? i ran rons setup for the last few races of our outdoor season, and it was great....i would definatly recomend it to anyone.....
#823
We dont have carpet out here in Cali, but you can try to move the rear shock out one hole. If the car seems slow to rotate you can move the spring rate up.
For carpet, lets see what Speedy says. The shock mount should help the car from being so dumpy. I would start with the rear.
For carpet, lets see what Speedy says. The shock mount should help the car from being so dumpy. I would start with the rear.
#824
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
See what Speedy says?
I am in Florida...it is all outdoors here. We run at Minnreg a couple times a year....that is about it!!
If you say the rear end is dumping over, then yes, you need to go a little stiffer. Moving the shock out, or going up a rate are great ways to get some added rear bite.
WHITESER-
I think the PN is like A-3425??
Mark may have it in the FAQ???
I am in Florida...it is all outdoors here. We run at Minnreg a couple times a year....that is about it!!
If you say the rear end is dumping over, then yes, you need to go a little stiffer. Moving the shock out, or going up a rate are great ways to get some added rear bite.
WHITESER-
I think the PN is like A-3425??
Mark may have it in the FAQ???
#825
SS-
Just updated the FAQ.
md
Just updated the FAQ.
md