2LikesLosi XXX-S
08-21-2001, 05:49 PM
#61
thanks guys. I think I am going to get the SMH now...get the really good Pro-Match ones and go with the P2K. The track said something about maybe having a 19turn or maybe as low as 15turn mid-range stock class so I think the SMH will be better for me. Plus come summertime I want to race in Dumfries and that is a nice and big outdoor course and I can get out of the mod racers way if I start to trouble them. I just want to go fast and have fun and learn again 
08-21-2001, 05:50 PM
#62
I don't have a XXX-S, just reading and helping.
08-21-2001, 05:51 PM
#63
mike, if you have enough money, the SMH's will definately be a good choice for you.
08-21-2001, 05:53 PM
#64
I looked at the pro-match site, and their SMH are at some good prices!
08-22-2001, 12:45 AM
#66
Tech Adept
Only raced my XXX-S a few times now but I love it. I thought my PRO3 generated tonnes of grip until I tried the Losi. Speed is excellent. So far durability does not seem to be a problem and beleive me I have tested the strength of this car.
Anyway, I have a few questions for you guys that have a little more experience with Losi cars.
I find my GM PRO stock motor getting hot after a few miniutes of racing but even my 1700 mah batteries last a full 5min of racing. After a race my motor is way too hot compared to other cars I have run. Do motors tend to run hot in these cars or should I play around with my gearing? The track I run in is short and technical.
With stock parts and our control tyre I can only get my front ride height to 6mm. That seems to work fine with purple springs but I would like to go a shade softer on the front to dial out a little push. If I fit the slightly longer, softer springs I can not get the ride height low.
Will fitting threaded shock bodies make a difference by getting rid of those huge upper spring collars?
Also my spur gear does not run true which does not seem to affect the mesh with the pinion but seems to make gear train a little noisier. I query this as I have heard that the XXX-S is suppposed to be really quiet????
Thanks for any replies.
Yorkie
Anyway, I have a few questions for you guys that have a little more experience with Losi cars.
I find my GM PRO stock motor getting hot after a few miniutes of racing but even my 1700 mah batteries last a full 5min of racing. After a race my motor is way too hot compared to other cars I have run. Do motors tend to run hot in these cars or should I play around with my gearing? The track I run in is short and technical.
With stock parts and our control tyre I can only get my front ride height to 6mm. That seems to work fine with purple springs but I would like to go a shade softer on the front to dial out a little push. If I fit the slightly longer, softer springs I can not get the ride height low.
Will fitting threaded shock bodies make a difference by getting rid of those huge upper spring collars?
Also my spur gear does not run true which does not seem to affect the mesh with the pinion but seems to make gear train a little noisier. I query this as I have heard that the XXX-S is suppposed to be really quiet????
Thanks for any replies.
Yorkie
08-22-2001, 10:28 AM
#67
Originally posted by HarshGuy
Hey guys, there is a XXX-S thread going on www.rcracing.com ...it's gotten a good amounts of posts if interetsted.
Hey guys, there is a XXX-S thread going on www.rcracing.com ...it's gotten a good amounts of posts if interetsted.
08-22-2001, 11:29 AM
#68
Suspended
Yorkie- I have not experienced the hot motor problem but I know others have mentioned it.
The ride height is fixed by trimming the top ring off the shock collar and by cutting about 1/8th of an inch off the top of the bottom eyelet where the shaft screws in. This will allow the spring retainer to sit lower on the shockmount and will allow the collar to be raised up higher.
I would contact Losi about the spur thing. Mine is very true and the car is silent.
Hope this helps.
The ride height is fixed by trimming the top ring off the shock collar and by cutting about 1/8th of an inch off the top of the bottom eyelet where the shaft screws in. This will allow the spring retainer to sit lower on the shockmount and will allow the collar to be raised up higher.
I would contact Losi about the spur thing. Mine is very true and the car is silent.
Hope this helps.
08-22-2001, 12:19 PM
#69
Yorkie,
I'd start with a rollout of around 27-28mm on the with the GM3 on a tight track.
My spur was very true as well, you might want to check with Losi or their importer in the U.K. about a replacement if you'rs isn't runing true. You might also take the spur out and double check that everything is exactly as called for in the manual.
Trips
I'd start with a rollout of around 27-28mm on the with the GM3 on a tight track.
My spur was very true as well, you might want to check with Losi or their importer in the U.K. about a replacement if you'rs isn't runing true. You might also take the spur out and double check that everything is exactly as called for in the manual.
Trips
08-22-2001, 06:07 PM
#70
Well I love the XXX-S so far (from a building standpoint, at least) but Losi's packaging department leaves a bit to be desired. The car came without the second male outdrive cup (diff half) and soon after that I realized it only came with 11 of the "heavy duty belleville washers" as opposed to the required 12.
Unfortunately, the only thing that my LHS had that was close to one of those washers was from the Losi regular diff hardware kit (Part #A-3078). The washers in here are the same width, but are just ever-so-slightly thinner than the ones in my kit.
In other words, hopefully putting this sucker in there isn't going to kill anything...
On an unrelated topic (and since I now have enough parts to build a third diff) has anybody experimented with the 41T "option" pulley yet?
Unfortunately, the only thing that my LHS had that was close to one of those washers was from the Losi regular diff hardware kit (Part #A-3078). The washers in here are the same width, but are just ever-so-slightly thinner than the ones in my kit.
In other words, hopefully putting this sucker in there isn't going to kill anything...
On an unrelated topic (and since I now have enough parts to build a third diff) has anybody experimented with the 41T "option" pulley yet?
08-22-2001, 09:41 PM
#72
i have the spare all built...i just have had no reason to try it..mayby this weekend....
08-23-2001, 09:48 AM
#73
Here's another thing about the car...
Has anybody experimented with the front/rear pivot angles? I set mine up per the Lemieux setup from the web, but I am pretty unclear as to what changing the pivot angle will do. I don't think I've seen that feature on any of my cars before.
Looks like the pros are running 0degrees on both front and rear, so, maybe it doesn't really do anything...
Has anybody experimented with the front/rear pivot angles? I set mine up per the Lemieux setup from the web, but I am pretty unclear as to what changing the pivot angle will do. I don't think I've seen that feature on any of my cars before.
Looks like the pros are running 0degrees on both front and rear, so, maybe it doesn't really do anything...
08-23-2001, 10:18 AM
#74
This how David Spashett explained it; "'...with less kick up in the front the car will enter the corner quicker, with more kick up the reaction slows down. When you change castor you change the amount of initial and exit steering but not the overall response. So far on our cars just about all the drivers like to use zero degree kick up with 4 Degree blocks."
08-23-2001, 06:04 PM
#75
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
Hinge pin angles affect weight transfer.
In the rear is called anti-squat. When you apply power, the rear wheels actually move rearward when the suspension is compressed. Since the front of the arms are higher, the hubs/wheels move back in relation to the chassis with susp. movement.
Since the rear tires/wheels are trying to travel forward under power, instead of the wheels moving back, the suspension compression actually pushes the chassis forward, which has mass, and the force of trying to push the chassis forward plants the rear tires.
The same is true with the front. Less kick up/anti-dive will result in more wieght transfer to the front when offpower. Running more anti-dive will apply more pressure to the front tires under braking, much like anti-squat applys pressure to the rears.
For maximum wieght transfer, Odeg on either end; but like with springs and oil, you can go to far, make the car too soft, and it will dump over in the corner and spin out.
Once more, It is ALL about BALANCE.
In the rear is called anti-squat. When you apply power, the rear wheels actually move rearward when the suspension is compressed. Since the front of the arms are higher, the hubs/wheels move back in relation to the chassis with susp. movement.
Since the rear tires/wheels are trying to travel forward under power, instead of the wheels moving back, the suspension compression actually pushes the chassis forward, which has mass, and the force of trying to push the chassis forward plants the rear tires.
The same is true with the front. Less kick up/anti-dive will result in more wieght transfer to the front when offpower. Running more anti-dive will apply more pressure to the front tires under braking, much like anti-squat applys pressure to the rears.
For maximum wieght transfer, Odeg on either end; but like with springs and oil, you can go to far, make the car too soft, and it will dump over in the corner and spin out.
Once more, It is ALL about BALANCE.