Guillermito

Robert Batlle is an excellent pilot, and is having very good results from this with Mugen. Won the Dash$ and came second in the Neo, and now won the WarmUp.

Över

No, i want Batlles setup.
/Peter

adrictan

iTrader: (10)

I'm a dummy. Need pics.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

alrights, thanks to both Johnny and Scott then

you guys should really try AE's green slime if you haven't yet. This is the ideal finishing touch on o-rings, it made a world of difference and became instant legend stuff when The BuggyMeister (Cliff Lett) brought it to RC from MX in the mid-80's... believe an old-school 2wd electric driver

Ordered some shims

Cheers,
Paul

JoeyTheRocket

iTrader: (11)

Here are some pics for ya. You can see the shim goes in between the shock body and oil cap.

shinnbad12

iTrader: (1)

Ok here is a very simple explination,
1) remove the shock end from the shock shaft
2) turn shock upside down and remove the alluminum cartridge (the part that holds the o rings) from the shock body.
3) place 1 shim on the shock body (it will fit over the threads of the shock body)
4) reinstall the cartridge and tighten down
5) reinstall shock end

The cartridge will tighten down onto the new shim wich will stop the cartridge from travling as far up the threads, as a result not crushing the o rings as much. This allows the shaft to move more freely but still with no leaks. It is still a good idea to always make sure the pistons are smooth with some very light sand paper.
I hope this helps make it clear, i dont know how to post pics

Scott

NitroXray80809

iTrader: (24)

That little added shim makes the shocks twice as better? I think im ganna order me some.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Well, I haven't put them on mine yet as I've just ordered some but just a quick word of warning - these little shims won't compensate for washed-out shock oil, too-used o-rings, poor rebound symmetry, collapsed springs, binding hinge pins and balljoints, excessive slop in plastic, (even slightly) bent shock shafts, and so on so forth... you get the idea, this is the extra fraction of % stuff that anal people like me are always after ...

if you've never thought that your shocks were sticking, then don't bother. Plus I also believe that it WILL provide not as good a seal as the "stickier" setup... there's a reason why Koji and the boys designed it like this I'd say. That's fine with me really as I keep changing oil in the shocks for the heck of it

BTW you could reach the exact same result by sanding the teflon shims that go in the cartridges to make them slightly thinner... this is what we used to do on AE 10th scale shocks teflon washers till not too long ago, same exact result - less crushing of the o-rings.

I can't wait to try it though

Paul

johnny t

iTrader: (10)

with most "new" orings you will find the cap does not crush on the orings much if at all. the silicone mugen uses does swell, and so this shimming technique is just making more room for this. yes you could just sand down the white bushings to achieve the same objective, the shims we advised is just the lazy way out.

I have not encountered any leaking yet after a year of doing this and I strive that my seal stack has no preload via the cap. I remember when I was testing swell resistant orings (like kyosho ones) but having even worse stiction than the stock mugen which are actually very slippery AFTER they swell! my guess is the mugen material absorbs silicone oil subsequently providing lubrication. whereas my swell free orings did not and I assume clean rubber on chrome is not a great bearing or that just did not react well with silicone oil.

I do remember the green slime from the RCPS days. (oh geez I am an RC troglodyte!) I am sure it will work very well, the mugen orings do seem to react with silicone oil very well (although not in a way we would think) while some other oring materials don't, cause silicone is generally a lousy lubricant to begin with. green slime is a good solution if the orings you have don't play nice with silicone oil. I was having to grease my "alternate" orings to get them to work better. although I was using "slick honey".

and yes this is truly anal 10/10ths stuff. although it was Cliff Lett at the '91 worlds in detroit that taught me shocks were everything after I saw him redoing his after almost every run.

RookieForever

i just received my upgrade parts for front suspension holders. And Im little bit confused about those inserts. How shoul I set then
m so they are like stock ones?

dreaux

iTrader: (5)

The upper aluminum arm mount? Mugen one?

Nick411

When i got my M2C rear suspension holders it came with instructions telling me what was stock and it is engraved on the peaces themselves.

dakilo

iTrader: (53)

Hi all, whats are some better brake pads/discs to use on the mbx6 other than the stock ones? Thanks

nick64merc

I run Avid brakes on my truggy and buggy they work really nice. You need to remove the pad material from the brake pad so it is just metal. The Avid brake rotors are made out of fiberglass/compisite material.

wfo

iTrader: (6)

The Losi 2.0 black fiber one work the best ....