Mugen MBX6
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I run the Ascendency vented clutchbell with werks/ascendency clutch without issues. Just put a small shim between the clutch and bell so the shoes do not hit the clutchbell. Several gallons on mine now and still looks new.
Tech Master
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i am curious on the rear links on the uprights. i am having a hard time understanding where it makes a difference. It seems like if you put it on the inside link, you will just let the turnbuckles out to get it level, if you put it on the outside one, you pull the buckles in, so it seems like the upright is in the same place not matter where you put the link on the upright?
a longer rear link will generally give the rear of the car more traction while a shorter link does the opposite.
moving the link up or down on the tower and/or moving the entire rear hub up or down has a similar effect as well.
Tech Master
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i am curious on the rear links on the uprights. i am having a hard time understanding where it makes a difference. It seems like if you put it on the inside link, you will just let the turnbuckles out to get it level, if you put it on the outside one, you pull the buckles in, so it seems like the upright is in the same place not matter where you put the link on the upright?
The shorter link will free the car up getting into the corner (rotation) and when you get back on the power it will square up faster. But the more camber gain will also take away forward bite. Look at the back of your car on a bench and push it down with your hand, watch the camber change as you move the care through its travel. Now move your links to the shortest position and do it again, with more camber gain(shorter link) the tire surface touching the ground is less when you push the car down.
I hope this explains it well enough.
Scott
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yes explains it very well. thank you.
Tech Master
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Yesterday I ran my buggy on a really grippy track, the car felt really good but coming out of corners onto the larger straights the car would turn really well for maybe half a second on the throttle, then it would just diff out really bad to both the inside tyres. As the grip dropped off near the end of the day it wasn't quite as bad but the car still felt quite unstable down part of the straight away after this.
I'm currently running 7f - 10c - 5r in my diffs, should I be going up in the diffs? was thinking to try 10 15 7 or even 15 15 10. This should make the car accelerate with more confidence shouldn't it?
Can post the rest of my setup if people think it might be a setup problem. Another driver who is a little faster than me was running similar diff oils and having the same trouble so thats why i'm thinking diffs.
Cheers
Stricko
I'm currently running 7f - 10c - 5r in my diffs, should I be going up in the diffs? was thinking to try 10 15 7 or even 15 15 10. This should make the car accelerate with more confidence shouldn't it?
Can post the rest of my setup if people think it might be a setup problem. Another driver who is a little faster than me was running similar diff oils and having the same trouble so thats why i'm thinking diffs.
Cheers
Stricko
I run the heaviest springs front and rear when the traction is that high.
Scott
Last edited by shinnbad12; 06-12-2011 at 05:07 PM.
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What droop front & rear is everyone running?
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Don't be afraid to try heavier springs if you have all that traction, it will help support the car in the corners and not allow it to drop its butt comming off the corner, giving it alot more steering on exit.My 2 cents.
I run the heaviest springs front and rear when the traction is that high.
Scott
I run the heaviest springs front and rear when the traction is that high.
Scott
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Almost full. IMO shocks wouldn't has full length on fallen arms. Otherwise it may end up pulling out shock shafts from damper ends.
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heres a vid of our track from last summer, the surface hasn't got any better any suggestions for a good set up for the bumps, parts are very dusty other sections are grippy grass, raced last week and got it a bit wrong with set up and car was like a pogo stick just couldnt push like i wanted to.
brief set up
7/7/5 diffs
450/400 5 hole pistons, started on 9.5/10.75 changed to 9.25/10.25 qualified second with the stiffer springs.
2.3 2.7 swaybars
will try to post up a full set up later
sorry vid is on facebook
http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/v...69791&comments
brief set up
7/7/5 diffs
450/400 5 hole pistons, started on 9.5/10.75 changed to 9.25/10.25 qualified second with the stiffer springs.
2.3 2.7 swaybars
will try to post up a full set up later
sorry vid is on facebook
http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/v...69791&comments
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Trying to get some advice, i been having tuning issues with my MBX6 from day one, here is whats going on, my engine runs very inconsistant, some laps its good, some it seems rich, some it leans out going off jumps, I am running a Dynamite XP V2 with a nova rossi carb, I do notice air bubbles in my fuel line at times at idle, i checked the tank by blowing in one tube and blocking the other whie submerged in water, noticed no bubbles, replaced all the fuel line etc. The only thing I can think is it is a pipe issue, the cone does not seem loose though. My concern is the air bubbles in the line. Hopefully I can get some advise to see if im on the right track.
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I had some weird issues a long time ago with an old mbx6 i had that i honestly never quite figured out. I bought another one recently and have not had any issue since. The major differences are that i do not run my fuel line per the manual, i ream out a hole in the splash guard to keep the line away from the motor. I also make sure that my pipe has plenty of clearance from the tank.
I don't recall having issues while the car was upright though, i had issues with the fuel being drawn back into the tank after it flipped over and it would stall even if i was flipped back over quickly. I was able to confirm with mine though it was not an engine issue, because when i put it on a losi it ran perfect. I could only trace it being an issue with the tank, pipe setup or how i routed my fuel line.
I don't recall having issues while the car was upright though, i had issues with the fuel being drawn back into the tank after it flipped over and it would stall even if i was flipped back over quickly. I was able to confirm with mine though it was not an engine issue, because when i put it on a losi it ran perfect. I could only trace it being an issue with the tank, pipe setup or how i routed my fuel line.
Tech Apprentice
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Trying to get some advice, i been having tuning issues with my MBX6 from day one, here is whats going on, my engine runs very inconsistant, some laps its good, some it seems rich, some it leans out going off jumps, I am running a Dynamite XP V2 with a nova rossi carb, I do notice air bubbles in my fuel line at times at idle, i checked the tank by blowing in one tube and blocking the other whie submerged in water, noticed no bubbles, replaced all the fuel line etc. The only thing I can think is it is a pipe issue, the cone does not seem loose though. My concern is the air bubbles in the line. Hopefully I can get some advise to see if im on the right track.
I had some issues with the fuel filter in my mbx6, air leaks where you can take apart the filter.
/Peter
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One thing to check is your tank isn't screwed in too tight on the rubber grommets, the tank should have a bit of movement so your fuel is getting too shaken up.
I do the hole in the splash guard to but for the pressure line,I run my fuel line around the front body post...it keeps it away from the pipe better than just curving around from the filter.
I do the hole in the splash guard to but for the pressure line,I run my fuel line around the front body post...it keeps it away from the pipe better than just curving around from the filter.
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
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Trying to get some advice, i been having tuning issues with my MBX6 from day one, here is whats going on, my engine runs very inconsistant, some laps its good, some it seems rich, some it leans out going off jumps, I am running a Dynamite XP V2 with a nova rossi carb, I do notice air bubbles in my fuel line at times at idle, i checked the tank by blowing in one tube and blocking the other whie submerged in water, noticed no bubbles, replaced all the fuel line etc. The only thing I can think is it is a pipe issue, the cone does not seem loose though. My concern is the air bubbles in the line. Hopefully I can get some advise to see if im on the right track.
Scott
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ejf it sounds like a pressure issue. its in the line,tank or with the motor. if the motor is low on compression it will not make enough pressure to keep up with the fuel demand. you wouldnt think it would be possible, but ive seen this b4 and after the sleeve was pinched the issue was gone. hope scott's right in its just the tank.