Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree3Likes

Mugen MBX6

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-12-2011, 07:20 AM
  #12526  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 120
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I run the Ascendency vented clutchbell with werks/ascendency clutch without issues. Just put a small shim between the clutch and bell so the shoes do not hit the clutchbell. Several gallons on mine now and still looks new.
RCMD is offline  
Old 06-12-2011, 07:35 AM
  #12527  
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: michigan
Posts: 1,678
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dreaux
i am curious on the rear links on the uprights. i am having a hard time understanding where it makes a difference. It seems like if you put it on the inside link, you will just let the turnbuckles out to get it level, if you put it on the outside one, you pull the buckles in, so it seems like the upright is in the same place not matter where you put the link on the upright?
moving the turnbuckle on the rear hub changes roll center.

a longer rear link will generally give the rear of the car more traction while a shorter link does the opposite.

moving the link up or down on the tower and/or moving the entire rear hub up or down has a similar effect as well.
o.s. power is offline  
Old 06-12-2011, 08:10 AM
  #12528  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
shinnbad12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: eureka IL.
Posts: 1,143
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dreaux
i am curious on the rear links on the uprights. i am having a hard time understanding where it makes a difference. It seems like if you put it on the inside link, you will just let the turnbuckles out to get it level, if you put it on the outside one, you pull the buckles in, so it seems like the upright is in the same place not matter where you put the link on the upright?
When you shorten the camber links on the hub you do NOT change roll center it changes camber gain. When you raise and lower the link on the tower it changes roll center.

The shorter link will free the car up getting into the corner (rotation) and when you get back on the power it will square up faster. But the more camber gain will also take away forward bite. Look at the back of your car on a bench and push it down with your hand, watch the camber change as you move the care through its travel. Now move your links to the shortest position and do it again, with more camber gain(shorter link) the tire surface touching the ground is less when you push the car down.
I hope this explains it well enough.

Scott
shinnbad12 is offline  
Old 06-12-2011, 10:20 AM
  #12529  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,660
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

yes explains it very well. thank you.
dreaux is offline  
Old 06-12-2011, 04:01 PM
  #12530  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
shinnbad12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: eureka IL.
Posts: 1,143
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by stricko
Yesterday I ran my buggy on a really grippy track, the car felt really good but coming out of corners onto the larger straights the car would turn really well for maybe half a second on the throttle, then it would just diff out really bad to both the inside tyres. As the grip dropped off near the end of the day it wasn't quite as bad but the car still felt quite unstable down part of the straight away after this.

I'm currently running 7f - 10c - 5r in my diffs, should I be going up in the diffs? was thinking to try 10 15 7 or even 15 15 10. This should make the car accelerate with more confidence shouldn't it?

Can post the rest of my setup if people think it might be a setup problem. Another driver who is a little faster than me was running similar diff oils and having the same trouble so thats why i'm thinking diffs.

Cheers
Stricko
Don't be afraid to try heavier springs if you have all that traction, it will help support the car in the corners and not allow it to drop its butt comming off the corner, giving it alot more steering on exit.My 2 cents.
I run the heaviest springs front and rear when the traction is that high.

Scott

Last edited by shinnbad12; 06-12-2011 at 05:07 PM.
shinnbad12 is offline  
Old 06-12-2011, 06:48 PM
  #12531  
Tech Master
iTrader: (54)
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,592
Trader Rating: 54 (100%+)
Default

What droop front & rear is everyone running?
jsmax is offline  
Old 06-13-2011, 02:55 AM
  #12532  
Tech Adept
 
Paulus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 235
Default

Originally Posted by shinnbad12
Don't be afraid to try heavier springs if you have all that traction, it will help support the car in the corners and not allow it to drop its butt comming off the corner, giving it alot more steering on exit.My 2 cents.
I run the heaviest springs front and rear when the traction is that high.

Scott
+1 for all your posts on setups, you are allways wright on the money with your advice
Paulus is offline  
Old 06-13-2011, 03:08 AM
  #12533  
Tech Adept
 
Busterlbn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Poland
Posts: 122
Default

Almost full. IMO shocks wouldn't has full length on fallen arms. Otherwise it may end up pulling out shock shafts from damper ends.
Busterlbn is offline  
Old 06-13-2011, 04:00 PM
  #12534  
Tech Addict
 
slow coach's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: guernsey C.I.
Posts: 626
Default

heres a vid of our track from last summer, the surface hasn't got any better any suggestions for a good set up for the bumps, parts are very dusty other sections are grippy grass, raced last week and got it a bit wrong with set up and car was like a pogo stick just couldnt push like i wanted to.

brief set up

7/7/5 diffs

450/400 5 hole pistons, started on 9.5/10.75 changed to 9.25/10.25 qualified second with the stiffer springs.

2.3 2.7 swaybars

will try to post up a full set up later

sorry vid is on facebook

http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/v...69791&comments
slow coach is offline  
Old 06-13-2011, 05:52 PM
  #12535  
EJF
Tech Elite
iTrader: (41)
 
EJF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 2,777
Trader Rating: 41 (98%+)
Default

Trying to get some advice, i been having tuning issues with my MBX6 from day one, here is whats going on, my engine runs very inconsistant, some laps its good, some it seems rich, some it leans out going off jumps, I am running a Dynamite XP V2 with a nova rossi carb, I do notice air bubbles in my fuel line at times at idle, i checked the tank by blowing in one tube and blocking the other whie submerged in water, noticed no bubbles, replaced all the fuel line etc. The only thing I can think is it is a pipe issue, the cone does not seem loose though. My concern is the air bubbles in the line. Hopefully I can get some advise to see if im on the right track.
EJF is offline  
Old 06-13-2011, 07:19 PM
  #12536  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (17)
 
pl_unc86's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 554
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

I had some weird issues a long time ago with an old mbx6 i had that i honestly never quite figured out. I bought another one recently and have not had any issue since. The major differences are that i do not run my fuel line per the manual, i ream out a hole in the splash guard to keep the line away from the motor. I also make sure that my pipe has plenty of clearance from the tank.

I don't recall having issues while the car was upright though, i had issues with the fuel being drawn back into the tank after it flipped over and it would stall even if i was flipped back over quickly. I was able to confirm with mine though it was not an engine issue, because when i put it on a losi it ran perfect. I could only trace it being an issue with the tank, pipe setup or how i routed my fuel line.
pl_unc86 is offline  
Old 06-13-2011, 09:21 PM
  #12537  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Piteå, Sweden
Posts: 69
Default

Originally Posted by EJF
Trying to get some advice, i been having tuning issues with my MBX6 from day one, here is whats going on, my engine runs very inconsistant, some laps its good, some it seems rich, some it leans out going off jumps, I am running a Dynamite XP V2 with a nova rossi carb, I do notice air bubbles in my fuel line at times at idle, i checked the tank by blowing in one tube and blocking the other whie submerged in water, noticed no bubbles, replaced all the fuel line etc. The only thing I can think is it is a pipe issue, the cone does not seem loose though. My concern is the air bubbles in the line. Hopefully I can get some advise to see if im on the right track.
Hi
I had some issues with the fuel filter in my mbx6, air leaks where you can take apart the filter.
/Peter
Över is offline  
Old 06-14-2011, 04:10 AM
  #12538  
Tech Addict
 
curacing2's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: New Zealand Auckland
Posts: 594
Default

One thing to check is your tank isn't screwed in too tight on the rubber grommets, the tank should have a bit of movement so your fuel is getting too shaken up.
I do the hole in the splash guard to but for the pressure line,I run my fuel line around the front body post...it keeps it away from the pipe better than just curving around from the filter.
curacing2 is offline  
Old 06-14-2011, 05:18 AM
  #12539  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
shinnbad12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: eureka IL.
Posts: 1,143
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by EJF
Trying to get some advice, i been having tuning issues with my MBX6 from day one, here is whats going on, my engine runs very inconsistant, some laps its good, some it seems rich, some it leans out going off jumps, I am running a Dynamite XP V2 with a nova rossi carb, I do notice air bubbles in my fuel line at times at idle, i checked the tank by blowing in one tube and blocking the other whie submerged in water, noticed no bubbles, replaced all the fuel line etc. The only thing I can think is it is a pipe issue, the cone does not seem loose though. My concern is the air bubbles in the line. Hopefully I can get some advise to see if im on the right track.
If you are POSITIVE that the tune is not the issue, I would replace the tank and your problem will probably be gone. I have had a tank act this way,causing you to chase a tune all over thinking the motor has an air leak. It could very well be a tank leaking. I couldn't find a problem with the tank by bench testing in any meathod but replaced it and WALLA tune came in and stayed good.

Scott
shinnbad12 is offline  
Old 06-14-2011, 08:27 AM
  #12540  
Tech Elite
 
allan42r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: OSWEGO IL.
Posts: 2,602
Default

ejf it sounds like a pressure issue. its in the line,tank or with the motor. if the motor is low on compression it will not make enough pressure to keep up with the fuel demand. you wouldnt think it would be possible, but ive seen this b4 and after the sleeve was pinched the issue was gone. hope scott's right in its just the tank.
allan42r is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.