Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Scott - of course!!!! Makes perfect sense. remove some crushing! I always thought it took forever to tighten the caps with way too much elasticity!

Thanks for the killer tip

Paul

dreaux

iTrader: (5)

I don't understand what you mean by "sticking". I thought the shocks were pretty smooth

Tigergutt

How much fuel does the buggy tank hold with and without the reducer??

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/9151967-post12277.html



Paul

Tigergutt

Thanks :-)

Sprinkler

iTrader: (28)

Why? There is nothing wrong with the stock one. Use the correct length presure line and tune the engine correctly and that will solve the problem. The tanks are fine the way they are.

johnny t

iTrader: (10)

Your welcome...

the stock orings are pretty good, like you lonestar I tried a bunch of different orings until I learned what the real cause was. also, I would not bother with any petroleum based lubes, the stockers are at their best with just silicone oil. and I will just lube the seals with shock oil.

one other tip if I may to keep your shock always stiction free. before a shock oil change I will unscrew the seal cap and push the shaft a little to purge out the the seals with some oil. this allows you to remove any dirt wedged and re-wet the seals with oil. screw back on and change oil in the usual manner. I guess this wont work though if you run no rebound in the shocks.

I will also fine tune rebound by venting excess oil via the seal cap. Its how the touring car guys do it I believe. It allows the bladder to stay relaxed and makes quick work of getting an exact setting. you can even add rebound easily by pouring oil down the seal well.

Över

Where can i find Robert Batlles Euros WarmUp setup?

Regards
Peter

johnny t

iTrader: (10)

batlles? you want reckwards setup...his was the most impressive car in the vids.

shinnbad12

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=johnny t;9190701]Your welcome...

THANK YOU ! I was just passing along the good idea


Johnny was the founder of the shim solution

Scott

johnny t

iTrader: (10)

awe shinn, just giving you crap. everyone gives me a hard time so I got to pass the favor. good run (TQ) in that truggy class saturday, I only wish we could of duked it out in the buggy main.

shinnbad12

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man, the truck was dialed and tons of fun to through around I'm sure we will meet again in the A and have the chance to trade some paint I ran the new 5 mm BCE chasis for the first time this weekend and was changing setups all day. I really wanted to run the main, i believe we had a winning ride for the show Good run to you as well

Scott

hobdog

iTrader: (19)

So you are just adding a washer, and not removing any other parts? If so how does this help to make the shaft feel more free, it would seem that adding a washer would make the orings squish more and tighten on the shaft. I'm just curious, but this sounds interesting enough for me to try.

johnny t

iTrader: (10)

the washer goes in over the threads of the shock body for the seal cap. the cap then cant close in on the seals as much. you can find out how this works by just loosening the cap, most likely you will find all this extra rebound after you back off the cap. that was seal stiction at play from excessive preload on the seals.

hobdog

iTrader: (19)

ok, now I see. thx for the explanation