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Old 06-01-2011, 06:47 PM
  #12391  
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thanks for the reply guys.
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Old 06-01-2011, 06:56 PM
  #12392  
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Originally Posted by nick64merc
I run Avid brakes on my truggy and buggy they work really nice. You need to remove the pad material from the brake pad so it is just metal. The Avid brake rotors are made out of fiberglass/compisite material.
+1 this does work good ! For best results get the X Ray hardened brake pads and you will have Max braking power. ( that dont fade over a 45 min main)

Scott
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Old 06-01-2011, 07:43 PM
  #12393  
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Originally Posted by Nick411
When i got my M2C rear suspension holders it came with instructions telling me what was stock and it is engraved on the peaces themselves.
I got my front and rear ones yesterday and they are great pieces.

But they are the worst instructions I have ever read in my life. An engineer designed the pieces but he must have had a day off when the instructions needed to be written.....

Im still trying to figure out how you can get the front pivot (rear) to be a "1"
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Old 06-01-2011, 07:46 PM
  #12394  
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I run Avid brakes on my truggy and buggy they work really nice. You need to remove the pad material from the brake pad so it is just metal. The Avid brake rotors are made out of fiberglass/compisite material.
Where I can buy the Avid brakes?

Thanks. Best Regards.
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Old 06-01-2011, 08:31 PM
  #12395  
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Originally Posted by wfo
The Losi 2.0 black fiber one work the best ....


By far some of the best discs on the market.
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Old 06-01-2011, 08:48 PM
  #12396  
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Originally Posted by Guillermito
Where I can buy the Avid brakes?

Thanks. Best Regards.
http://www.avidrc.com/product/4/brakes/
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Old 06-01-2011, 11:43 PM
  #12397  
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Originally Posted by ben73
I got my front and rear ones yesterday and they are great pieces.

But they are the worst instructions I have ever read in my life. An engineer designed the pieces but he must have had a day off when the instructions needed to be written.....

Im still trying to figure out how you can get the front pivot (rear) to be a "1"
Do you mean the front B block ? You cant. Its 0 only. There is no way to make a 1 out of it.
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Old 06-02-2011, 07:40 AM
  #12398  
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Originally Posted by shinnbad12
Thank you very much!

Best Regards.
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Old 06-02-2011, 01:24 PM
  #12399  
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Anyone know if Mugen USA going to get a new version which includes the new chassis +5 mm? Europe and Japan already have it....

Best Regards.
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Old 06-02-2011, 03:54 PM
  #12400  
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Hello fellow Mugen guys. Im lookin for the best place for aluminum upgrade parts. I have most but the rear hubs and toe plate for rear. Im looking to buy the toe plate and hubs but amain seems to always be out of stock or over priced. Can anyone help me find upgrades cheaper. I prefer mugen aluminum but i dont really care about brand as long as its king headz, fioironi, mugen.
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Old 06-02-2011, 04:05 PM
  #12401  
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I just got some aluminum hubs by mugen and the wheel bearings spin inside one of the hubs. Mugen won't answer any of my emails I have sent them.
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Old 06-02-2011, 05:08 PM
  #12402  
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You know I just got some from amain as well and I can see what you are talking about I haven't ran them yet I can tell it's going to be a problem
Has anybody had this issue and if so is there anything we could do to fix it

Thanks
John
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Old 06-02-2011, 05:33 PM
  #12403  
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Originally Posted by JHN1
You know I just got some from amain as well and I can see what you are talking about I haven't ran them yet I can tell it's going to be a problem
Has anybody had this issue and if so is there anything we could do to fix it

Thanks
John
Return them and order the Fioroni version from a-main

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ear-Knuckles-2
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Old 06-02-2011, 05:59 PM
  #12404  
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Originally Posted by JHN1
You know I just got some from amain as well and I can see what you are talking about I haven't ran them yet I can tell it's going to be a problem
Has anybody had this issue and if so is there anything we could do to fix it

Thanks
John
sounds like a batch that is slightly off in tolerances. they may need to replace some of their tooling bits.

my last set of cvds had not been cut correctly due to a dull bit.

my al hubs are a bitch to get the bearings out of. i need to heat the up to get the bearing to come out.
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Old 06-02-2011, 07:18 PM
  #12405  
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Originally Posted by dreaux
I just got some aluminum hubs by mugen and the wheel bearings spin inside one of the hubs. Mugen won't answer any of my emails I have sent them.

As a machinist, it's a lot easier than most think to have something get slightly over a tolerance and slip by QC. Unless people are getting paid huge salaries in the quality control department (normally not the case) then most would not even catch something this small, or even understand the consequences of it being out of tolerance X etc.


Email is a pretty unreliable form of communication, you should try calling them. I am sure Mugen gets a ton of emails daily and it's very easy for yours to be overlooked or just filtered as spam!
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