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Old 05-30-2011, 02:12 PM
  #12346  
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enyone using the eco spur in the gaser,to lightn up the drive train, any problems??
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Old 05-30-2011, 08:12 PM
  #12347  
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Originally Posted by 1bigshane
enyone using the eco spur in the gaser,to lightn up the drive train, any problems??
the plastic one? dont do that
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Old 05-30-2011, 09:43 PM
  #12348  
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin
the plastic one? dont do that
why not? Does an electric motor come with a plastic pinion?
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Old 05-30-2011, 10:02 PM
  #12349  
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Originally Posted by dreaux
why not? Does an electric motor come with a plastic pinion?
No pinions are same as a clutch bell. There are some who run the plastic on nitro but im not sure how long they last. The main reason they done this is to cut the annoying noise and also loose a little weight. I dont see why it couldn't be used on nitro other then heat because eltrics only get max around 150 degrees and thats HOT. Nitro runs around 220 and others 260. Thats alot more heat and plastic doesn't like heat. You also can get fuel and other things on the gear which can cause it to get weak fast. With dirt getting in im sure the plastics don't last anywhere as long as the aluminum. Yeah its a weight factor but is a few grams worth a DNF in the main? Not saying its unrelyable but its a risky thought for a little less weight that won't change the driveability.
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Old 05-30-2011, 11:03 PM
  #12350  
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Originally Posted by davet323
Putting a rb with a 01353-192p manifold and 2045 pipe in a new mspec buggy but pipe is touching side guard is there a different manifoid i should be using
One of our Mugen driver also having the same problem, just got his BTTS and 9910 tuned pipe and the 41021 manifold. After fixing up found that the angle for the manifold is too wide. After some checking there is another manifold 41029 is specially cater for Mugen.
Just a info should anyone is getting this combo.
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Old 05-30-2011, 11:23 PM
  #12351  
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a friend of mine turned up with the eco spur on his nitro buggy, it stripped in the 2nd or 3rd heat.

I run the 2072 GO pipe in my X6, man is that a tight fit!
It keeps comming off the wire holder so i have the shape of the pipe melted into my tank got more room now
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Old 05-30-2011, 11:54 PM
  #12352  
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I use this header on mine, no issues at all.

http://www.tonysscrews.com/product.s...&categoryId=74
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Old 05-30-2011, 11:59 PM
  #12353  
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I think you'll have more luck with an extended motormount and more play than usually on the mesh if you want to try a plastic spur.
Because a nitro car flexes a lot, I think you can strip easily a gear on a huge jump. A loser mesh and an extended motormount help against this.
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Old 05-31-2011, 12:09 AM
  #12354  
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Originally Posted by davet323
Putting a rb with a 01353-192p manifold and 2045 pipe in a new mspec buggy but pipe is touching side guard is there a different manifoid i should be using
You got the Jap Spec?

Welcome to the fastlane Dave!!!
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Old 05-31-2011, 03:38 AM
  #12355  
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i'd be careful not to run a too late or slipping clutch, the heat from the bell when you stop after a run can soften or melt a plastic spur gear, i've seen this in onroad.
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Old 05-31-2011, 03:52 AM
  #12356  
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nova 41030 - same as 41021 (ie long), but narrower, and designed for the mbx6. that's a 3-spring header, not sure how many the werks exhaust have, so beware. 41021 rubs the side guard with many exhausts such as 9901.

Paul
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Old 05-31-2011, 03:58 AM
  #12357  
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Default Shock cartdridges o-ring - alternatives?

Guys

which non-mugen shock o-rings (P3.5) are you using? I tried some hotbodies lightning ones I had in my pile-o-parts but they're slightly bigger than the stock ones and they bind the shaft movement like crazy. Any el-cheapo (and easily available, by bulk if possible) replacements that work like the originals?



thanks

Paul



PS: On a side note... why don't our 8th scale shocks feel as smooth as our 10th scale ones? I can build AE B4.1 shocks that don't have the slightest stick, they will rebound super finely to their starting position... whereas my mbx6 shocks stick like if there was no tomorrow, even when new, even when green slimed, you get the idea...
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Old 05-31-2011, 05:06 AM
  #12358  
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Originally Posted by Lonestar
Guys

which non-mugen shock o-rings (P3.5) are you using? I tried some hotbodies lightning ones I had in my pile-o-parts but they're slightly bigger than the stock ones and they bind the shaft movement like crazy. Any el-cheapo (and easily available, by bulk if possible) replacements that work like the originals?



thanks

Paul



PS: On a side note... why don't our 8th scale shocks feel as smooth as our 10th scale ones? I can build AE B4.1 shocks that don't have the slightest stick, they will rebound super finely to their starting position... whereas my mbx6 shocks stick like if there was no tomorrow, even when new, even when green slimed, you get the idea...
I just use the stock mugen replacement o-rings in the shocks, but as far as the sticking, i polish the shock shafts in a drill with some metal polish and a rag until they shine like chrome. Then ill attach the piston to the shaft and smooth the edge of the piston with some emery cloth until it slides smooth in the shock body, But be carefull sanding the piston, to much and you will make junk.
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Old 05-31-2011, 05:11 AM
  #12359  
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Originally Posted by Lonestar
Guys

which non-mugen shock o-rings (P3.5) are you using? I tried some hotbodies lightning ones I had in my pile-o-parts but they're slightly bigger than the stock ones and they bind the shaft movement like crazy. Any el-cheapo (and easily available, by bulk if possible) replacements that work like the originals?



thanks

Paul



PS: On a side note... why don't our 8th scale shocks feel as smooth as our 10th scale ones? I can build AE B4.1 shocks that don't have the slightest stick, they will rebound super finely to their starting position... whereas my mbx6 shocks stick like if there was no tomorrow, even when new, even when green slimed, you get the idea...
The solution is this 10X12X0.3 shim, place this shim between the shock body and the cartridge that holds the o ring stack. the shock will be smooth as your B4 Here is the part# 10414 by OFNA a pack of 10 is $1.49, Dont stray away from the stock O rings by mugen,they are some of the best out there.

There is alot of people on here useing these.
Scott
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Old 05-31-2011, 05:31 AM
  #12360  
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Originally Posted by plus2ss
I just use the stock mugen replacement o-rings in the shocks, but as far as the sticking, i polish the shock shafts in a drill with some metal polish and a rag until they shine like chrome. Then ill attach the piston to the shaft and smooth the edge of the piston with some emery cloth until it slides smooth in the shock body, But be carefull sanding the piston, to much and you will make junk.
yes sir I polish the shafts too and pistons are used, hence zero flashing (plus they were correctly prepped when new too!)... the sticking/binding really happens at the o-ring level... I mean, compared to buttery-smooth 10th scale v2 AE shocks of course. Maybe this level of friction is the norm in 8th scale, I dunno, still a beginner (starting my third season)...

thanks... anyone using non mugen P3.5's?

Paul
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