Mugen MBX6
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
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okay capito! but (i m new to the mbx6, just switched from Kyosho) i noticed that on the MBX, the shock are layed down all the time on all the setup sheet.
Using the truggy tower on the rear have the same effect as using the outside hole on the buggy tower right ?
Right now, my buggy is f**king twitchy to drive in acceleration, the rear try to came on the front all the time! and i m using 10k-10k-5k... i m trying to figure out a good setup to push hard.
Oh and jp, i m still using ur Cyano... still the best one i used since loooooooong time!
Using the truggy tower on the rear have the same effect as using the outside hole on the buggy tower right ?
Right now, my buggy is f**king twitchy to drive in acceleration, the rear try to came on the front all the time! and i m using 10k-10k-5k... i m trying to figure out a good setup to push hard.
Oh and jp, i m still using ur Cyano... still the best one i used since loooooooong time!
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
okay capito! but (i m new to the mbx6, just switched from Kyosho) i noticed that on the MBX, the shock are layed down all the time on all the setup sheet.
Using the truggy tower on the rear have the same effect as using the outside hole on the buggy tower right ?
Right now, my buggy is f**king twitchy to drive in acceleration, the rear try to came on the front all the time! and i m using 10k-10k-5k... i m trying to figure out a good setup to push hard.
Oh and jp, i m still using ur Cyano... still the best one i used since loooooooong time!
Using the truggy tower on the rear have the same effect as using the outside hole on the buggy tower right ?
Right now, my buggy is f**king twitchy to drive in acceleration, the rear try to came on the front all the time! and i m using 10k-10k-5k... i m trying to figure out a good setup to push hard.
Oh and jp, i m still using ur Cyano... still the best one i used since loooooooong time!
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
okay capito! but (i m new to the mbx6, just switched from Kyosho) i noticed that on the MBX, the shock are layed down all the time on all the setup sheet.
Using the truggy tower on the rear have the same effect as using the outside hole on the buggy tower right ?
Right now, my buggy is f**king twitchy to drive in acceleration, the rear try to came on the front all the time! and i m using 10k-10k-5k... i m trying to figure out a good setup to push hard.
Oh and jp, i m still using ur Cyano... still the best one i used since loooooooong time!
Using the truggy tower on the rear have the same effect as using the outside hole on the buggy tower right ?
Right now, my buggy is f**king twitchy to drive in acceleration, the rear try to came on the front all the time! and i m using 10k-10k-5k... i m trying to figure out a good setup to push hard.
Oh and jp, i m still using ur Cyano... still the best one i used since loooooooong time!
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
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5-7-3 is exactly what i had at the begining, went to 7-7-3 was not too bad but the rear was to twittchy and finally move to 10-10-5 and had to run totally carefully! untly using the half of my trigger..
Oh and i run the long wheelbase
Oh and i run the long wheelbase
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Run the shortest (or a shorter) wheelbase, it will make the rear more stable.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
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but what's about the rear camber link location ? down he give me more on power traction and lose rear off power... upper less traction on power right ?
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Basically, the outer holes on the rear tower (Making shocks less inclined/layed down) assist in overall rear traction, and to my belief you gain more initial turn in, and also gain exit traction, so it squares up better.
With your roll centres, to eliminate an unsteady rear end you will want to run a LOW roll centre. This means running on the upper holes on the rear tower, and/or having a medium/long rear camber link. So either using the centre or outer holes on the hub.
Hope this helps, and enjoy your Mugen![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
//Zachattak
With your roll centres, to eliminate an unsteady rear end you will want to run a LOW roll centre. This means running on the upper holes on the rear tower, and/or having a medium/long rear camber link. So either using the centre or outer holes on the hub.
Hope this helps, and enjoy your Mugen
![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
//Zachattak
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Basically, the outer holes on the rear tower (Making shocks less inclined/layed down) assist in overall rear traction, and to my belief you gain more initial turn in, and also gain exit traction, so it squares up better.
With your roll centres, to eliminate an unsteady rear end you will want to run a LOW roll centre. This means running on the upper holes on the rear tower, and/or having a medium/long rear camber link. So either using the centre or outer holes on the hub.
Hope this helps, and enjoy your Mugen![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
//Zachattak
With your roll centres, to eliminate an unsteady rear end you will want to run a LOW roll centre. This means running on the upper holes on the rear tower, and/or having a medium/long rear camber link. So either using the centre or outer holes on the hub.
Hope this helps, and enjoy your Mugen
![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
//Zachattak
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you want more on power traction to the rear you want to run your arm low on the tower a Higher roll center will transfer weight to the rear on power.
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
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Scott
Tech Master
iTrader: (30)
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+1, i have to agree the +5mm chassis i find the bug too assy/twitchy. dont like it. now i need to get the bce x3. scott, can you confirm that the BCE x3 part# is PMBX3PRO and for truggy X chassis is MBXT "X" PRO? there's a couple in their site and just making extra sure. thanks!
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
+1, i have to agree the +5mm chassis i find the bug too assy/twitchy. dont like it. now i need to get the bce x3. scott, can you confirm that the BCE x3 part# is PMBX3PRO and for truggy X chassis is MBXT "X" PRO? there's a couple in their site and just making extra sure. thanks!
![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
Scott