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Old 08-26-2009, 07:16 AM
  #4876  
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Originally Posted by jmoneym
so how much in US dollars?
Right now, about $152. Currency changes all the time though.
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Old 08-26-2009, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ezveedub
Paul, when installing the Velcro, clean the area well, apply good Velcro, then apply a thin bead of CA glue with a small tube on edges of the Velcro to the mudguards. It will put for long time.

Also on the o-rings, on the Mugen, it aligns the pipe snuggly into the mudguard and it doesn't move. It also keeps the pipe from touching the fuel tank and lines if you run them along the sides of the tank or down on the mudguards with the loop.

Very useful as usual - thanks

Paul

PS: Regarding your new chassis, do you think you'll shave 3s off your lap times with it, like with a BCE chassis????
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Old 08-26-2009, 07:59 AM
  #4878  
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lonestar so true
(On Internet forums, I like to answer technical questions that I have no clue about - It makes me, and the others, feel like I'm worth something... Seems like I'm far from being the only one doing it, actually)
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Old 08-26-2009, 08:03 AM
  #4879  
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Originally Posted by ezveedub
Right now, about $152. Currency changes all the time though.
wow $152 it better take me to the Amain. wait i'm already in the Amain
because of practice. The best hop up practice.
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Old 08-26-2009, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by jmoneym
nice chassis but i dont like the fact you cant adjust the gear mess.
as for the BCE chassis. i will say this its a nice chassis as for as guys saying it made them faster guys are full of it. i mean i brought 2 BCE.one was for the kyosho STR which did made the truck better only because it increase wheelbase and one for the MBX5T which did the samething. Unless the BCE is Lighter then stock or somewho center things . nothing but eye candy.
+1.

I think a lot of times the a new chassis makes the car handle "better" because the old one was messed up. I switched to the BCE, and I like the chassis. But do I like it more than a brand new OEM chassis? I wouldn't know. In fact, I'm going back to OEM just because it's cheaper to replace....
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Old 08-26-2009, 11:38 AM
  #4881  
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hey guys, I am working on offering some of the kits we have in stock in a "prebuilt form", for example check out the "Speed Shop" thread. I have the Losi 2.0b listed up at this point.

What I want to do is build the kit and offer three different levels of a "build".

For instance offer the kit built to our specs, plus hop ups 1-8 for level #3. This would be pretty much every legit hop up for it.

Level # 2 would be something like the kit build, kit, and hop ups 1-5

Level #1 would be the kit build and maybe a couple of the most needed items.

So far we have been able to save guys a great deal of money on other brands even when adding in our services. Trying to get things figured out for the mugen.

just looking to see what you guys have been using and what are the main hopups?

Thanks again!
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Old 08-26-2009, 12:17 PM
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i would suggest, in order to put on the car:

DE racing skid plates front and rear - the stock chassis wears quickly without them!!!!!!!

lunsford turnbuckles - more so cause they allow you to use the losi wrench instead of some old school allen wrench

king headz two piece engine mount - this is a no brainer!!

king headz front tower - its cheaper than the mugen tower and looks bad ass cause its black. and aluminum.

mugen aluminum joint cups for front and rear center drive shafts - they are sweet and shave alot of weight off the drive train.

titanium upper screw kit - again saves weight off the TOP of the car

M2C rear block system - its not cheap, but is much more durable than the stock pieces, i only got it cause i broke a plastic rear toe plate, this has much more adjustment, the only downfall are the plastic bushings are from the RC8 they wear out constantly.

i cant see really doing anything more, the titanium lower kit, eh, not worth it cause the screws will wear out and strip easily.
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Old 08-26-2009, 12:21 PM
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only thing really needed is a DE Skid plate.
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Old 08-26-2009, 02:11 PM
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http://www.buggy-sport.info/index.ph...spec-mbx6.html I wonder what they will charge for this.
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Old 08-26-2009, 05:27 PM
  #4885  
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Default fuel tube

Hi, i am building my new MBX6 and i am having problem with that part of fuel tube that goes from the fuel filter under the air filter and to the tank or carb. My brake linkage touch the fuel tube and of course moving also the tank.I tried to move the top brake linkage backward but is not enough.Everyone got the fuel tube in that way so means that i am doing something wrong, but i don t know what. Thank you.
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Old 08-26-2009, 07:58 PM
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Factory built MBX6 (MBX6T coming soon)

Precut and mounted body with custom Upgrade RC wrap :mrgreen:
Even the tires are pre-mounts!

Notice the diff and shock setup:

5-7-3
Front: 450wt with 10.0T Springs (XXS)
Rear: 400wt with 11.0T Springs (XXS)

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Old 08-26-2009, 08:01 PM
  #4887  
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Originally Posted by ezveedub
And as Tony stated, the o-rings are to protect the pipe from getting beat up on the chassis and side guards. LOL, since Tony got those o-rings in stock and online in like two days, after he saw them on my car a few months back on the Grid.
LOL I actually seen the o-rings on another car two years ago but totally forgot about getting them in stock. But then I was reminded about the o-rings after I saw your picture on the grid.
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Old 08-26-2009, 08:03 PM
  #4888  
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Originally Posted by marco cianfrone
Hi, i am building my new MBX6 and i am having problem with that part of fuel tube that goes from the fuel filter under the air filter and to the tank or carb. My brake linkage touch the fuel tube and of course moving also the tank.I tried to move the top brake linkage backward but is not enough.Everyone got the fuel tube in that way so means that i am doing something wrong, but i don t know what. Thank you.
here is mine but I use dynamite setup



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Old 08-26-2009, 08:03 PM
  #4889  
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Originally Posted by Lonestar
Excellent idea on the o-rings, as most pipes touch the mud guard, and this creates abrasion in the long-run on both parts. Plus this should also create some thermal isolation, as I keep losing the piece of velcro taped on the pipe side, due to heat I assume

Tony, I had a quick look at your products - what is the correct dimension to order?

Thanks,
Paul
Hi Paul,

If you are running the OS 2050, 2060 or Ninja 2042 pipe you can use the 1-5/16" or 1-3/8" o-rings.
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Old 08-26-2009, 10:12 PM
  #4890  
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Default Dynamite set up

Thanks Mugenjoe, but where i can have look for that and where i can buy it. Thank you.
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