Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree352Likes

NOVAROSSI Engine thread....

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-28-2011 | 06:44 AM
  #1951  
scrapsz's Avatar
Tech Master
iTrader: (105)
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,845
From: Irwin, PA
Default

Originally Posted by savannahmick
I opened up my R21 Nitrotec and JX.21 to clean and inspect them. When opened up the Nova I noticed alot of rust/carbon on the end of crank and I am curious what causes this because my Ninja was clean as a whistle? I ALWAYS run all of fuel out of my motors and after run oil everytime but I do use Odonnel for the Ninja and Bryons for the R21. I couldn't get the sleeve out of the Nova without risking damage is there a easy way to remove sleeve with limited tools? Anyway I cleaned it out the best I could without removing internals with motor cleaner and put a bunch of after run oil in it. I am afraid the carbon/rust is going to kill my bearings the motor is only 4-5 gallons old. It still runs great! Thanks for info/help!
Many racers have different opinions, some leave fuel in their engines as the oil content coats the internals arguably protecting from rust. Personally I run the fuel out of my engines, however I use the GMK Supply after life oil and inject it through the fuel nipple on the carb to coat entire engine internals.

Nonetheless, you should disassemble and try to clean off the rust from the crank. Steel wool by hand or dremel with polishing tip works pretty well just stay clear of crank pin. If the crank is silicone filled, do not use any chemicals to clean. Also, at 4-5 gals I'd inspect/change the bearings if the engine still has strong compression. Normally if the crank has rust, the bearing races will likely be corroded too.

To remove sleeve...Install your collet, flywheel, & clutchnut. Then take a med size zip tie (size used for fuel tank pull), bend in half (crimp with pliers to flatten) and push into exhaust port. Grab the flywheel with protective pliers or flywheel wrench & gently rotate. This will push the sleeve up just enough top remove the zip tie and get under the flange to pull upward or gently pry. Obviously you don't want to use anything metal to force the sleeve up from inside the engine.

Hope this helps.
scrapsz is offline  
Old 12-28-2011 | 06:45 AM
  #1952  
scrapsz's Avatar
Tech Master
iTrader: (105)
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,845
From: Irwin, PA
Default

Originally Posted by koreanassasom
I have a bonito and I am switching from odonnell 30% to Byrons Gen 4000 pro driver 25 percent should I take out a shim? are engines still ave factory shims installed thanks
No...the factory shims are fine for 25 or 30%.
scrapsz is offline  
Old 12-28-2011 | 07:34 AM
  #1953  
bigjayjay1's Avatar
Tech Champion
iTrader: (87)
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,614
Default

Originally Posted by houston
they say it is supposed to be similar in performance to 9901 pipe but i have seen it run , its a lil different , similar yes , exact copy no


hope this helps

i would personally stick with novarossi pipes/headers
Thanks for the reply will try just to see will me mated with a bonito man that motor is sweet
bigjayjay1 is offline  
Old 12-28-2011 | 11:28 AM
  #1954  
Lille-bror's Avatar
Tech Master
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,792
From: Frederikshavn, Denmark
Default

Originally Posted by scrapsz
No...the factory shims are fine for 25 or 30%.
Normally you can run 25% nitro with the stock shims (0,8mm), when the engine are new (a few gallons or so). After that Novarossi suggests 0,7 mm when running 25% nitro.
Lille-bror is offline  
Old 12-28-2011 | 01:57 PM
  #1955  
bigjayjay1's Avatar
Tech Champion
iTrader: (87)
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,614
Default

I just received my two clocked bonitos OMG quality is up there super surprised and excited these mills LOOK AWESOME very impressed. the craftsmanship and quality is HIGH first NOVA motor figured go big on the first time out
bigjayjay1 is offline  
Old 12-28-2011 | 02:01 PM
  #1956  
Tech Initiate
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 41
Default

Hi,

I don't want to make a new thread just for that one question

Which NOVAROSSI engine would You recomend for a Losi 8ight 2.0.

I know that You've probably answered for that 1000 times but I have to say that the "search" option on this forum is a little inaccurate

I was thinking of the new BONITO.21-7XLBS.

What do You think about that with 9901 pipe and 021 mainfold?

best regards,


Greg
czapu is offline  
Old 12-28-2011 | 02:37 PM
  #1957  
houston's Avatar
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (96)
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 15,844
From: Sherwood,OR
Default

Originally Posted by czapu
Hi,

I don't want to make a new thread just for that one question

Which NOVAROSSI engine would You recomend for a Losi 8ight 2.0.

I know that You've probably answered for that 1000 times but I have to say that the "search" option on this forum is a little inaccurate

I was thinking of the new BONITO.21-7XLBS.

What do You think about that with 9901 pipe and 021 mainfold?

best regards,


Greg
Ummm more like any version of the plus 4 with 9901ss/41021
houston is offline  
Old 12-28-2011 | 03:34 PM
  #1958  
Tech Initiate
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 41
Default

Originally Posted by houston
Ummm more like any version of the plus 4 with 9901ss/41021
Hi,

Thank You for Your answer!

Why the plus 4? Is it any better the the Bonito or the Bonito is too powerfull for Buggy?

What version of plus 4 should I choose?

I'm more into petrol 1/5 scale (Baja ) but nitro took my soul too

Greg
czapu is offline  
Old 12-28-2011 | 04:00 PM
  #1959  
hookem34's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (17)
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,797
From: Texas.....Y'all!
Default

Originally Posted by houston
Ummm more like any version of the plus 4 with 9901ss/41021
Monty I though you liked the 2096 pipe over the 9901
hookem34 is offline  
Old 12-28-2011 | 04:12 PM
  #1960  
savannahmick's Avatar
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 631
From: Savannah Georgia
Default

Originally Posted by scrapsz
Many racers have different opinions, some leave fuel in their engines as the oil content coats the internals arguably protecting from rust. Personally I run the fuel out of my engines, however I use the GMK Supply after life oil and inject it through the fuel nipple on the carb to coat entire engine internals.

Nonetheless, you should disassemble and try to clean off the rust from the crank. Steel wool by hand or dremel with polishing tip works pretty well just stay clear of crank pin. If the crank is silicone filled, do not use any chemicals to clean. Also, at 4-5 gals I'd inspect/change the bearings if the engine still has strong compression. Normally if the crank has rust, the bearing races will likely be corroded too.

To remove sleeve...Install your collet, flywheel, & clutchnut. Then take a med size zip tie (size used for fuel tank pull), bend in half (crimp with pliers to flatten) and push into exhaust port. Grab the flywheel with protective pliers or flywheel wrench & gently rotate. This will push the sleeve up just enough top remove the zip tie and get under the flange to pull upward or gently pry. Obviously you don't want to use anything metal to force the sleeve up from inside the engine.

Hope this helps.
Thanks for the good info! I thought I was taking good care of my motor because I always run fuel out of motor and oil it but I guess I need to clean it out more often. At the Fall Brawl the temps dropped and everything got wet with condensation at night thats probably when I got the moisture in the motor because I didn't run my Ninja that race weekend and it's clean and even has more fuel thru it. I reassembled the motor without removing crank and now after your advice I am considering trying the zip tie trick and cleaning up the internals correctly. Thanks again!
savannahmick is offline  
Old 12-28-2011 | 05:11 PM
  #1961  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (162)
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,255
Default

Originally Posted by czapu
Hi,

Thank You for Your answer!

Why the plus 4? Is it any better the the Bonito or the Bonito is too powerfull for Buggy?

What version of plus 4 should I choose?

I'm more into petrol 1/5 scale (Baja ) but nitro took my soul too

Greg
bonito could work for buggy but is just not necessary as it has crazy amounts of torque. if you are looking for a buggy motor, look at the plus 4c team edition, or any of the new btt, btta, btts line (difference in those 3 is just the bearings it comes with). any of those 4 motors paired up with the 9901/021 is a killer combination for buggy
skoalisbad4me is offline  
Old 12-28-2011 | 06:10 PM
  #1962  
houston's Avatar
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (96)
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 15,844
From: Sherwood,OR
Default

Originally Posted by czapu
Hi,

Thank You for Your answer!

Why the plus 4? Is it any better the the Bonito or the Bonito is too powerfull for Buggy?

What version of plus 4 should I choose?

I'm more into petrol 1/5 scale (Baja ) but nitro took my soul too

Greg
lets just say the bonito is a bit much for the buggy but if you are into stupid amounts of power , then you just might like the bonito in buggy

Originally Posted by hookem34
Monty I though you liked the 2096 pipe over the 9901
oh i do , different engines like different pipes Dan
houston is offline  
Old 12-28-2011 | 10:47 PM
  #1963  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 423
Default

im confused these are two products description from amain hobbies. in the first it says use 41021 for bottom end delivery and then in the second it says the 41021 is for top end performance. I have two bonitos one for buggy one for truggy and my current setup is buggy 41020 and 9901 and truggy 2084 and 41021 thanks guys

This is the Novarossi "Super Strong" EFRA 2084 One Piece Tuned Pipe. This pipe is essentially an EFRA Legal 3-Chamber version of the Novarossi 9853 pipe. This is an excellent pipe for 1/8 truck, as it produces power similar to the 9853, while offering the smooth power delivery, exceptional top end and efficiency of the 9901. The 41005 header is recommended for smooth power delivery, while the 41021 is the header of choice for bottom end power delivery.


This is the Novarossi 41021 short, smooth flow, off-road racing manifold. This is the one piece variety manifold, which attaches to the tuned pipe using three small springs (small springs not included). This manifold is the smooth flow design from Novarossi, and is the short version of manifold for improved top end performance. Included is the manifold, manifold spring and one manifold gasket.
koreanassasom is offline  
Old 12-29-2011 | 01:25 AM
  #1964  
Lille-bror's Avatar
Tech Master
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,792
From: Frederikshavn, Denmark
Default

Originally Posted by savannahmick
Thanks for the good info! I thought I was taking good care of my motor because I always run fuel out of motor and oil it but I guess I need to clean it out more often. At the Fall Brawl the temps dropped and everything got wet with condensation at night thats probably when I got the moisture in the motor because I didn't run my Ninja that race weekend and it's clean and even has more fuel thru it. I reassembled the motor without removing crank and now after your advice I am considering trying the zip tie trick and cleaning up the internals correctly. Thanks again!
As JQ suggested some moth ago: Put a piece of cloth in top of the piston and press it down to BDC. When you turn the flywheel the liniar comes up.
Lille-bror is offline  
Old 12-29-2011 | 02:29 AM
  #1965  
Tech Initiate
 
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 41
Default

hi,

Thanks again.

But which of the plus 4 is the best one? With best bearings etc. etc.

I have to buy it from U.S. so it will take a bit time for it to come to Poland.

I wanted to place an order today

best regards,

Greg
czapu is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.