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Old 12-05-2011 | 04:47 PM
  #1921  
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Originally Posted by whatthefuggy
thanks all! re11 or re10 pipe? with the r21
RE 12
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Old 12-05-2011 | 05:09 PM
  #1922  
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Originally Posted by houston
Used to get rust on bearings and crank before I STOPPED running the fuel/oil out of the engine

Routine now is to dump excess fuel out of tank and let engine cool naturally, no aro !

Using byrons gen 2 fuels , pro driver or race 3000 have PLENTY of oil left in the crankcase and NO RUST

If you do prefer to run fuel out and use aro I recommend rbmods aro and plenty of it
+1 Just dump fuel outta tank.
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Old 12-05-2011 | 06:10 PM
  #1923  
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Originally Posted by savannahmick
I have one with 5 gallons on it and love it! I have a Ninja and it is dusty because my R21 is smoother/longer runtime 13 min./ holds a tune/ and has decent power with RE10 and alum. flywheel. It is a pretty good beginner engine but care needs to be taken during break-in I used the heat cycle method for two quarts but metal pinch didn't go away until 1 1/2 gallon and just got better over time. Yes 30% and running in buggy is fine but I would use something with a little castor oil during break-in like Bryons 11% and the Losi RE10 works great with Nitrotec with 7mm venturi but any of the Losi pipes work well. If you break it in right it will last forever! Good Luck!
yes siree

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Old 12-05-2011 | 07:18 PM
  #1924  
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Originally Posted by Muggydude
I'm curious what you guys think is the better engine now-

Plus 21-4c Team

Plus 21 4btta Steel bearing Engine

Now that both are almost identical in price.

I already have my plus 4c, and I'm happy with that, just curious
More surface area in the exhaust of the plus 4btt , only real design difference

Some like the feel of the btt some dont

I will let someone else go into details
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Old 12-05-2011 | 10:03 PM
  #1925  
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Originally Posted by houston
Used to get rust on bearings and crank before I STOPPED running the fuel/oil out of the engine

Routine now is to dump excess fuel out of tank and let engine cool naturally, no aro !

Using byrons gen 2 fuels , pro driver or race 3000 have PLENTY of oil left in the crankcase and NO RUST

If you do prefer to run fuel out and use aro I recommend rbmods aro and plenty of it
????

Amazing. Here in Denmark every engine that runs Byron fuel will rust very quick - with or without running the engine dry. Those drivers who ran SideWinder in 2009 and 2010 didn't have that problem but I don't know if the new purple stuff has the same AFO effect.
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Old 12-05-2011 | 11:12 PM
  #1926  
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Originally Posted by Lille-bror
????

Amazing. Here in Denmark every engine that runs Byron fuel will rust very quick - with or without running the engine dry. Those drivers who ran SideWinder in 2009 and 2010 didn't have that problem but I don't know if the new purple stuff has the same AFO effect.
Wut I have found to work well is to: dump excess fuel out of the tank, and plug the exhaust when it is at stoage temps.
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Old 12-06-2011 | 03:55 PM
  #1927  
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Any inside info on Novarossi releasing new engines for the 2012 season.
We are having a change next year and are in two minds of wait and see or get one now.
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Old 12-06-2011 | 04:00 PM
  #1928  
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whats the best break in fuel for the r21? where should i buy it? how much should i buy?
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Old 12-06-2011 | 04:24 PM
  #1929  
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I am curious too. I hope novarossi will come out with new ones.
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Old 12-06-2011 | 04:25 PM
  #1930  
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Originally Posted by savannahmick
I have one with 5 gallons on it and love it! I have a Ninja and it is dusty because my R21 is smoother/longer runtime 13 min./ holds a tune/ and has decent power with RE10 and alum. flywheel. It is a pretty good beginner engine but care needs to be taken during break-in I used the heat cycle method for two quarts but metal pinch didn't go away until 1 1/2 gallon and just got better over time. Yes 30% and running in buggy is fine but I would use something with a little castor oil during break-in like Bryons 11% and the Losi RE10 works great with Nitrotec with 7mm venturi but any of the Losi pipes work well. If you break it in right it will last forever! Good Luck!
here is your answer...local hobby shop or amain.
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Old 12-06-2011 | 04:26 PM
  #1931  
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Originally Posted by whatthefuggy
whats the best break in fuel for the r21? where should i buy it? how much should i buy?
i recommend byrons gen2 race 3000 blend /11% oil (lots of castor)

Neal at clockwerks likes th hpi purple rush RTR blend i believe , lots of oil i believe 18%

both great break in fuels

i would at least run the first gallon with either of these fuels
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Old 12-06-2011 | 10:59 PM
  #1932  
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Anyone using Novarossi's recipe:

14% ungummed castrol oil (first pressure acidity lower than 0.5) or 7% castrol oil
+ 7% synthetic oil + 80% pure methanol + 6% nitro.

http://www.novarossi.it/files/manuals/uk-general.pdf

I use it for the first 3x5 min + 3x10 min. of break-in. After that I use 20% nitro and 14% oil for the next gallon or so. Then race blend - 25% nitro and 12% oil if I'm out of Byron.
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Old 12-07-2011 | 09:43 AM
  #1933  
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thanks guys for all your responses... Will try putting in ARO
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Old 12-14-2011 | 05:59 PM
  #1934  
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I already had a toro nero in mbx6, I wonder if the bonito is superior in every way? I look for a BONITO.21 7XLBS-and-PLUS.21 4BTTS TUNED. my RC truggy is for a 2.0T

thanks ..
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Old 12-14-2011 | 06:10 PM
  #1935  
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So has anyone had a problem with the P5 crank? Is that true the P4 has a stronger crank than the P5?
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