NOVAROSSI Engine thread....
#1951
I opened up my R21 Nitrotec and JX.21 to clean and inspect them. When opened up the Nova I noticed alot of rust/carbon on the end of crank and I am curious what causes this because my Ninja was clean as a whistle? I ALWAYS run all of fuel out of my motors and after run oil everytime but I do use Odonnel for the Ninja and Bryons for the R21. I couldn't get the sleeve out of the Nova without risking damage is there a easy way to remove sleeve with limited tools? Anyway I cleaned it out the best I could without removing internals with motor cleaner and put a bunch of after run oil in it. I am afraid the carbon/rust is going to kill my bearings the motor is only 4-5 gallons old. It still runs great! Thanks for info/help!
Nonetheless, you should disassemble and try to clean off the rust from the crank. Steel wool by hand or dremel with polishing tip works pretty well just stay clear of crank pin. If the crank is silicone filled, do not use any chemicals to clean. Also, at 4-5 gals I'd inspect/change the bearings if the engine still has strong compression. Normally if the crank has rust, the bearing races will likely be corroded too.
To remove sleeve...Install your collet, flywheel, & clutchnut. Then take a med size zip tie (size used for fuel tank pull), bend in half (crimp with pliers to flatten) and push into exhaust port. Grab the flywheel with protective pliers or flywheel wrench & gently rotate. This will push the sleeve up just enough top remove the zip tie and get under the flange to pull upward or gently pry. Obviously you don't want to use anything metal to force the sleeve up from inside the engine.
Hope this helps.
#1952
#1953
#1954
#1955
I just received my two clocked bonitos OMG quality is up there super surprised and excited these mills LOOK AWESOME very impressed. the craftsmanship and quality is HIGH first NOVA motor figured go big on the first time out
#1956
Tech Initiate
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 41
Hi,
I don't want to make a new thread just for that one question
Which NOVAROSSI engine would You recomend for a Losi 8ight 2.0.
I know that You've probably answered for that 1000 times but I have to say that the "search" option on this forum is a little inaccurate
I was thinking of the new BONITO.21-7XLBS.
What do You think about that with 9901 pipe and 021 mainfold?
best regards,
Greg
I don't want to make a new thread just for that one question

Which NOVAROSSI engine would You recomend for a Losi 8ight 2.0.
I know that You've probably answered for that 1000 times but I have to say that the "search" option on this forum is a little inaccurate

I was thinking of the new BONITO.21-7XLBS.
What do You think about that with 9901 pipe and 021 mainfold?
best regards,
Greg
#1957
Hi,
I don't want to make a new thread just for that one question
Which NOVAROSSI engine would You recomend for a Losi 8ight 2.0.
I know that You've probably answered for that 1000 times but I have to say that the "search" option on this forum is a little inaccurate
I was thinking of the new BONITO.21-7XLBS.
What do You think about that with 9901 pipe and 021 mainfold?
best regards,
Greg
I don't want to make a new thread just for that one question

Which NOVAROSSI engine would You recomend for a Losi 8ight 2.0.
I know that You've probably answered for that 1000 times but I have to say that the "search" option on this forum is a little inaccurate

I was thinking of the new BONITO.21-7XLBS.
What do You think about that with 9901 pipe and 021 mainfold?
best regards,
Greg
#1958
Tech Initiate
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 41
Hi,
Thank You for Your answer!
Why the plus 4? Is it any better the the Bonito or the Bonito is too powerfull for Buggy?
What version of plus 4 should I choose?
I'm more into petrol 1/5 scale (Baja
) but nitro took my soul too 
Greg
Thank You for Your answer!
Why the plus 4? Is it any better the the Bonito or the Bonito is too powerfull for Buggy?
What version of plus 4 should I choose?
I'm more into petrol 1/5 scale (Baja
) but nitro took my soul too 
Greg
#1960
Many racers have different opinions, some leave fuel in their engines as the oil content coats the internals arguably protecting from rust. Personally I run the fuel out of my engines, however I use the GMK Supply after life oil and inject it through the fuel nipple on the carb to coat entire engine internals.
Nonetheless, you should disassemble and try to clean off the rust from the crank. Steel wool by hand or dremel with polishing tip works pretty well just stay clear of crank pin. If the crank is silicone filled, do not use any chemicals to clean. Also, at 4-5 gals I'd inspect/change the bearings if the engine still has strong compression. Normally if the crank has rust, the bearing races will likely be corroded too.
To remove sleeve...Install your collet, flywheel, & clutchnut. Then take a med size zip tie (size used for fuel tank pull), bend in half (crimp with pliers to flatten) and push into exhaust port. Grab the flywheel with protective pliers or flywheel wrench & gently rotate. This will push the sleeve up just enough top remove the zip tie and get under the flange to pull upward or gently pry. Obviously you don't want to use anything metal to force the sleeve up from inside the engine.
Hope this helps.
Nonetheless, you should disassemble and try to clean off the rust from the crank. Steel wool by hand or dremel with polishing tip works pretty well just stay clear of crank pin. If the crank is silicone filled, do not use any chemicals to clean. Also, at 4-5 gals I'd inspect/change the bearings if the engine still has strong compression. Normally if the crank has rust, the bearing races will likely be corroded too.
To remove sleeve...Install your collet, flywheel, & clutchnut. Then take a med size zip tie (size used for fuel tank pull), bend in half (crimp with pliers to flatten) and push into exhaust port. Grab the flywheel with protective pliers or flywheel wrench & gently rotate. This will push the sleeve up just enough top remove the zip tie and get under the flange to pull upward or gently pry. Obviously you don't want to use anything metal to force the sleeve up from inside the engine.
Hope this helps.
#1961
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,255
bonito could work for buggy but is just not necessary as it has crazy amounts of torque. if you are looking for a buggy motor, look at the plus 4c team edition, or any of the new btt, btta, btts line (difference in those 3 is just the bearings it comes with). any of those 4 motors paired up with the 9901/021 is a killer combination for buggy
#1962

oh i do , different engines like different pipes Dan
#1963
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 423
im confused these are two products description from amain hobbies. in the first it says use 41021 for bottom end delivery and then in the second it says the 41021 is for top end performance. I have two bonitos one for buggy one for truggy and my current setup is buggy 41020 and 9901 and truggy 2084 and 41021 thanks guys
This is the Novarossi "Super Strong" EFRA 2084 One Piece Tuned Pipe. This pipe is essentially an EFRA Legal 3-Chamber version of the Novarossi 9853 pipe. This is an excellent pipe for 1/8 truck, as it produces power similar to the 9853, while offering the smooth power delivery, exceptional top end and efficiency of the 9901. The 41005 header is recommended for smooth power delivery, while the 41021 is the header of choice for bottom end power delivery.
This is the Novarossi 41021 short, smooth flow, off-road racing manifold. This is the one piece variety manifold, which attaches to the tuned pipe using three small springs (small springs not included). This manifold is the smooth flow design from Novarossi, and is the short version of manifold for improved top end performance. Included is the manifold, manifold spring and one manifold gasket.
This is the Novarossi "Super Strong" EFRA 2084 One Piece Tuned Pipe. This pipe is essentially an EFRA Legal 3-Chamber version of the Novarossi 9853 pipe. This is an excellent pipe for 1/8 truck, as it produces power similar to the 9853, while offering the smooth power delivery, exceptional top end and efficiency of the 9901. The 41005 header is recommended for smooth power delivery, while the 41021 is the header of choice for bottom end power delivery.
This is the Novarossi 41021 short, smooth flow, off-road racing manifold. This is the one piece variety manifold, which attaches to the tuned pipe using three small springs (small springs not included). This manifold is the smooth flow design from Novarossi, and is the short version of manifold for improved top end performance. Included is the manifold, manifold spring and one manifold gasket.
#1964
Thanks for the good info! I thought I was taking good care of my motor because I always run fuel out of motor and oil it but I guess I need to clean it out more often. At the Fall Brawl the temps dropped and everything got wet with condensation at night thats probably when I got the moisture in the motor because I didn't run my Ninja that race weekend and it's clean and even has more fuel thru it. I reassembled the motor without removing crank and now after your advice I am considering trying the zip tie trick and cleaning up the internals correctly. Thanks again!



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