A little education please!!!

What’s the story with ceramic bearings? Do they have better longevity, less friction; is it a must to have ceramic bearings in the front and rear? How do they compare to the steel bearings?

Thanks for the help!

1) slightly better fit, balls are more consistent/round. Thus smoother/more efficient and more corrosion resistant. However, less tolerant of dirt, but can run hotter and with slightly less oil.

2) About the same longevity except in extreme cases, slightly less friction.

3) Dirt is the enemy, I'm not a personal fan of running them in the front position long-term compared to steel. However, Nova has one of the best seals in the industry right now and generally you can get away with running a ceramic front, but keep it fresh.

is there any performance differences in the btts or btta? or is it just different bearings. i see a purple head in my future.lol

. i see a purple head in my future.lol[/QUOTE]

And is that purple head attached to any thing/one. Hahahaha. A shaft maybe.

sorry mate, don't mean to hang shit on you, just couldn't help that one coming out..................

Is there anybody that still has some knowledge about older Novarossi engines?

A few das ago I was going through my secret stash of engines. What I found was an old BS21SB ( http://rcdocuments.com/Novarossi%20BS21SB.pdf ), which is a 5-port short stroke engine. It still has some metal pinch, the crankshaft is DLC treated (custom made, no mods) but I never really had the time to run it.
What could I expect from this engine? I know that the older Novarossi short stroke engines like the BX21 series (with the green heads) were supposed to have very good bottom end.

Which leads to my second question, I also found a Novarossi EFRA 2006 pipe (for onroad use). Now the German Mini Car Association (I'm German by the way..) has a neat passage in their rule book where a lot of drawings, especially older pipes, are shown:
http://www.dmc-online.com/NeueSeite/...012Anhang4.pdf
9886 at page 3, 2006 at page 6 .

It seems that the 2006 pipe has a very similar construction as the 9886 pipe does, except the 2006 seems to have three chambers. Do you think this might work in an offroad engine like the P5 or maybe the BS21SB? On the Novarossi homepage they state it's "the most progressive" pipe they have, what the heck does that mean?

Any help is much appreciated.

Andi

It mean´s that it´s softer/smoother without any kick in the power band at certain rpm´s.

Might not be the best if you have short run up to a jump in offroad, but can be good if the track i slick. I like the 2015 which is a quite progressive pipe to.
Hope that helps.

Sounds interesting, thanks Nitrovein.

Andi

Guys, how do you clean the inside of the engine and components during a rebuild. I see some burned fuel and dirt. How to get it all off and get it back shiny?

Also there is some color change on the piston top. Is it advisable to polish or clean it?

The oils in the fuels burn and leave residue/color , bad thing? Depends on the oil pkg in the fuel

Unless there is a huge amount of build up i would suggest leaving it alone

To answer your question , denatured alcohol and elbow grease

Thanks Sir. Have heard a lot about you.

Denatured alcohol is hard to get by in India. Will liquid used for cleaning electronics circuit boards work? I guess its close to denatured alcohol. Will it work on bearings? Also heard guys using paint thinner or turpentine. Is it safe?

How to get even more runtime with a Novarossi engine in my XRAY buggy?

Beside a good tune, 5,5 mm venturi, 9901/41029 pipe set, rather cold plug, prober gearing, clutch setup and a needdle on the trigger..., I thought of the diff's. You'll get better acceleration with thicker diff oil. Otherwise you make a lot of wheelspin and waste fuel, right? Of course you will not have a uncontrolable car, if that's what happens with a change in the diff setup.

Any of you guys tried or thought of that?

Receive my Bonito's..will be breaking them in soon..

the bonito's have a total of 0.80 mm shims inside..do i need to add more for running at 30% nitro

which pipe and headers work the best on this engine..

whats the difference for the C6TGC and the C6TGH glow plugs?Can the C6tgh be used on these offroad engines?

I use lacquer thinner to clean the block and bearings because it works the best for cleaning carbon deposits IMO but follow up with denatured alcohol. Laquer thinner is a very harsh chemical so it is only to be used on metal as it will melt some plastics and dry out rubber. If you can't get these chemicals then don't bother cleaning as you may end up with contamination with anything else. Just keep in mind that you are dealing with a micro motor. Even the smallest mistake could destroy your engine.

shimming is PLENTY as it is for 30% , recommend dropping it down after break in

h plugs work just fine , recommend C plugs but it'll be fine , i have ran them and they worked great

the two BEST feeling pipes without having any weird qwerky power delivery or anything of the such are 9901ss/41021 or 9853ss/41021-41005

hope this helps

a lil buildup is a good thing , alot can be harmful like if it plugs oiling holes in rod and such

if you have pretty good mechanical skills then git r dun with denatured alcohol and a lil elbow grease ,

remember that all that buildup seals up all the imperfections between block and sleeve and any other cavities that need filled