what are you looking for?

You can send Savagesam a PM (post #6471) he has run the motor.

I am just looking on feedback of this engine i heard the fuel consumption is high

So I Love the Plus 21-4 BTTWC/A engine. Break it in, swap the rear bearing for ceramic and run the piss out of it. I've got one with almost 70 liters on it now and it still has decent compression. With a werks 2058 pipe on it the power is so buttery smooth it's straight crazy. I've been looking at the 2018 Plus 21-4 BTT Limited Edition engines that are popping up on websites that are priced cheaper than the BTTWC/A. Has anybody seen/held/ran one of these yet? The specs read exactly the same as the BTTWC/A, but from the pictures I've seen it has the new carb on it. Just checking to see if anybody has any feedback on it before I drop the coin on a replacement for my current BTT.

could just be a btt, could be lacking the "tuned" crank but you would need to see an exploded diagram to cross reference part numbers

Since mantra is not offset carb ,the opening "window" on the crank is on different area than tye mephisto crank has it.

The Mephisto doesn't have an offset carb either. Carb and crankshaft is the only difference.
http://www.novarossi.it/2012/images/...ova/MANTRA.pdf
http://www.novarossi.it/2012/images/...FF_general.pdf

Ups..
My bad..
​​​​​​i tthough that it is offset like the other engines in Mephisto series.

Beside the offset carb Novarossi also ditched the weird expensive main bearing with the onroad Mesphito

Who has feedback in regards to a Rolling in buggy? I am considering getting one for when I just want more power. A friend of mine is running one in his tekno buggy paired with the novarossi 2135 pipe and he really likes the combination .

I'm replacing my clutch bell but when I go to tighten the retaining screw and washer, the clutch bell binds. I have 4 washers behind the rear clutch be bearing.

You can use small 3x5mm shims to "extend" the crankshaft or you couod get one of theese:

https://www.google.no/search?q=ofna+...71O0yfM:&vet=1

Or, you could try and rempve a coupple of shims. As long as the clutchbell do not touch the flywheel you should be ok.

I always start without any shims between front bearing and flywheel. Ive never needed to shim the flywheel. Now between flywheel and clutchbell - different story. This almost always needs shimming to have the proper backlash needed.

Each collet might be different from manufacturer to manufacturer, weather it be the cone pitch or length. Pick the one or shim it to where the flywheel is as close as possible to the case without rubbing. Then add the bell with bearing and add one shim at a time till you can spin the bell with out it rubbing on the flywheel. Then finally shim the play with shims on the front of the bell. .94mm of play is what Monty recommends .

.94mm is equal to .0037”. That seems like a lot. I usually shoot for .001-.002”. You need a little endplay, but as minimal as possible.

Sorry meant .04