At the track now and still having an issue with my esc acting like full drag brake even thought it is turned off. This was all after a a64 flash. I have tried different dead bands differents speeds on my radio different brake bands. What else can I try its hard not knowing if im going to be at full brake when I lift for a corner or not.

I just installed my first viper system today on my 22sct and it was a breeze. I bought the VTX10 BE with the 17.5 motor combo. Can't wait to trough it down at the track. I tried looking for some setup sheets on vipers website but no luck. What is a good starting point for a 22sct 17.5 on a large indoor clay track?

Have not ran my Viper powered cars in a while I have the 550 Copperhead
in my SC10 4wd. And in my oval bomber car I have the 540 copperhead.

I know the bomber car was fast the last time I ran it. Dont really know
which one I like better but the 550 combo was more expensive so it's
probably better.

Every 17.5 motor is different, even 2 of the exact same ones. Here is how I was taught to tune 17.5 motors

-start with profile 1 on the ESC
-Pick a safe starting point for gearing, or one that you have been told is right for the track. I usually start with 26/78 for the 22SCT.
DO NOT CHANGE GEARING YET!!!!!!
-run for 5 minutes and temp the motor. You ideally want it to be about 130 deg after 5 min. If you are not there, bump the timing up slightly. (I normally end up between 45 and 50 deg timing but every motor is different)

I typically go up in 5 deg increments until I get close. Once you get your motor coming off in that 130 range after 5 minutes, then adjust your gearing for the layout. Ideally you should only have to go up or down 1 tooth if you started in the right spot.

And I go for 130 deg after 5 minutes because we typically run 6 min quals and 10 min mains. I find that if I am under 130 after 5 minutes, I usually am under 150 after 10 min.

Remember, your mileage may vary and you learn from trying.

Thanks Bob, I will do that. Just to be clear, you are talking about timing in the ESC not the motor can?

no. I'm talking Mechanical Timing, which is on the endbell of the motor. In blinky you can't touch Electronic Timing, which is in the ESC. The manufacturers had to offer a 'locked down' mode where you couldn't adjust timing and then make it easily identifiable by having something on the ESC blink. That's where the name comes from.

So keep in mind, 90% of the time when people give you 17.5 setups, they are talking about blinky setups with no ESC timing.

OK, thanks for helping this new be out.

Ok I think i have it figured out. Reflashed the a64 onto it again.The only thing i can think of is that the dynamic brake strength may have been set to 100%... would this give me the issue i was having

I'm sure others have done this already, as several at my local race track have done, but you never know who's out there buying new TLR 22's and Viper ESC's.

I just got three new 'shorty' 4600 liPo packs from China and did the modification to my TLR 22, moving the VTX10R down and under the rear shock tower. It's a perfect fit, except for the factory attached capacitors on top. I'll be upgrading to the Black Edition capacitor bank, which should fit right at the bottom of the rear shock tower as well. Plenty of room for all wiring, including the motor sensor wire.

The battery ends up centered in the chassis with appropriate foam blocks and the VTX10R has plenty of air space for cooling from the sides and tops. Other drivers at my track say that they've never had any overheating, especially since we're all racing in the 17.5 class.

First practice with this new setup tomorrow!

Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska

Robert I had my esc in the same place on my 22 but I rotated it 90 deg so that the battery wouldn't push up against the terminals in any kind of impact.

I've got a standard foam block, trimmed to width, and stuck to a piece of rigid clear plastic, between the battery and the ESC.

That ought to spread the force of any impact around and distribute it across the width of the ESC. I generally find that my impacts are much more likely to be forward, as in nose dive type crashes, which would slam the battery forward.

Or I could crash less. LOL!

I have seen where people set dynamic brake strength to 100% by accident, thinking it was brake strength. And yes, the reflash would have set everything back to default.

I got the VTX10 BE and 17.5 installed in my RT6. It ran really good. When I bought this I bought the combo because it was cheap and I didnt expect the viper motor to touch my trinity d3.5. I was wrong. Geared 72/28 with 50 on endbell. Came off at 137 after 10 minutes. I didn't change any of the settings just used profile #1 with A64 firmware. It was smooth and fast.

I don't have brakes. Did I miss something?

Brake Default is 80 -- so you can go turn it up to find the feel you want. Also slightly lower Brake Freq will help it catch a little harder as well.

Problems went away with the new HD 4300 installed. 3 rounds of racing and a couple of practice packs and no issues running 15t. Coming off 160ish (6 minute quals, fastest trucks are in the 38 sec/lap range). Might take 1 step up on the pinion. Fast on the straight but just barely fast enough.