Ohh what a great night I had.

I got to the track just before 3:00pm. I get setup and put the RC10.2 on the corner. Not many people there yet. My brother and I start crashing, err racing, yeah racing. I had made a few changes to the truck and it was hooked up and screaming. I am blasting around the track. Went through a 5000mah battery. We take a quick break. Have a sandwich, get a drink, check the truck, sauce the tires. head back out.

Place is filling up fast. Found out they are having a big race and tons of people are showing up.

I got tangled in a mass wreck on the straight. Well I got hit by an 1/8 scale buggy going light speed. A marshal gets use all apart and I head out. I get 3 lap and the truck just stops. No forward, no reverse. I figure my battery was dead and I hit LVC. As I walk up I smell it. Motor was smokin hot. From the old nitro days I spit on my finger and the motor is sizzling!!!

I get back to the pits, pull the motor, lay it between two 1/2 frozen sports drinks and pray. About 15 minutes later it is just on the warm side. I spin the motor with my fingers and it seems smooth. I reassemble it, set the mesh, plug in the battery and turn it all on. Hit the gas and all is well, motor spins and sounds as quiet as ever. I run 2 more batteries before the track closes for practice.

Only thing I can think of is when I was hit, it jammed the motor and made the gear mesh way to tight?

Glad my smokin hot Viper did not die a horrible painful death.

Some how or another I lost 1/2 of my Rx antenna too. It looks like it was cut with wire cutters. smooth and clean cut.


Buzz.

No we weren't at the races, my son and I had basketball. It looks like you are definitely correct, esc appears to be fried also....bummer! I guess I will try the trade in program. It must have shorted out somehow. Before yesterday it never heated up over 120* after a run. Thanks for the info.

Curious why the temp cutoff wouldn't have kicked in, isn't that a fail safe to avoid this type of situation? I guess temps don't have much to do with shorts.

The esc has a 1 year warranty if you bought it new. A hot motor wont directly kill and ESC. More than likely something in the sensor board shorted on either the motor or the esc.

having a problem with my VT X 10. the S and R lights are blinking and It wont respond to any commands, but seems to be working OK. I hold the program button down and it does absolutely nothing, doesn't respond to the ez link and won't shut off unless I unplug the Battery.Help Please, I'm Stumped!!

sorry figured it out, somehow set my brake on my radio way too high

Nikos i have a vtx10 BE i need a new switch put on how would i go about doing that it's not in WARRANTY.

After doing some reading on here i went ahead and filled out a RMA to get the esc sent in I should of done that first....

Hey Nick, I'm gonna be running a Durango DESC210R 2wd corr truck. It's set up MM4 (mid motor 4 gear tranny) with the stock 87 tooth spur, Viper VTX10R BE esc with a 8.5 (Novak Ballistic, sorry ). I'll be running on a medium sized, medium grip indoor clay track. Got a suggestion for a rough starting point for a pinion? Never had a Durango before. Thanks as always!

20-22

Gonna try running boosted 17.5 using the a64 profile on my vtx10be. Directions say to not let the total timing go above 60 deg, so if boost timing is 35 and top end is 15...... 10 deg on the can would be max? I was thinking of setting the can to 0 and seeing where the temps end up before I add any more timing. Anybody have any tips that would help?

there's no 'right' way to do it. It all comes down to feel. As long as you monitor temps and adjust accordingly, you will be fine. Pick one path you want to go and work with it.

I wish we had a UK supplier . Have not got to mess around sending it in. Far from impressed, only used it to race twice running 6 s 1400 Kv. And yes my settings was fine.

I am pretty sure Travis had a 21 on his 2wd SC at Cactus, sounds like a place to start.

Here is the best way to develop a boosted set up -- find a good starting point in blinky mode. Good gear ratio, lap times decent, something you would race blinky with. Reduce pinion size (depends how much on road or off road). Put a starting boost program on with 5 degrees acceleration boost, 5* top end boost. Select starting and end points (little dependent on motor) - this case with 17.5 say 5000 start and 12000 finish. slew rate 4.

Run car, check the temps, if you need little more bottom end, increase accel boost slightly, or lower start rpm slightly. When you have the acceleration off the corner you want (can use), move to top speed timing. Does your car acceleration all the way down the longest straight, no, add small amount of timing, go up one gear - keep watching temps.

I find the boost works best if Physical timing on motor, Accel timing and Top speed timing together are under 60. Its all a little testing puzzle to put together. Its not good to try and run 45* acceleration boost, with a really low gear ratio, etc. If your motor sounds like its revving too high, it probably is. That can cause issues. Take one change at time, run some laps, measure heat, look at lap time, try the next change. And keep in mind, it might be slightly different next time you are at the track, so you might have to adjust it again.