clint_scte, I'm assuming you have your radio on at that time? And I'm assuming you are NOT running the A64 firmware. Sounds like you might be running into a situation where your radio trim is off. With the older version of firmware, it wouldn't shut the vehicle down if the radio signal wasn't at neutral. I'm not sure if the Copperhead system got the A64 firmware or not. If it did (check the website) try uploading the new firmware. Otherwise, try trimming your radio to neutral or shut the radio off before doing anything with the ESC.

I tried turning esc on with the radio on and off. I did run into the issue before with having to recalibrate the esc, but at that time it would respond to me pressing the power button. Im planning to call viper sometime this morning and see what they have to say. Thanks for the help and ideas.

Clint - nice talking to you this morning - hope we got it all set up. Please let me know.

Schlamil - no, not at this time. Up to this point we have only ever done a very few software updates, so the need to have a portable way to upload software is not really needed.

As for making adjustments - the ProGauge/EZLink cards are still the simplest, fastest way to make adjustments to any speed control. You can literally pull your call off the track, make an adjustment and put it right back down in less than a minute (ok maybe a little longer until you get practice). You don't have to go back to the pits, or turn off your car, or unplug your receiver(or sensor) or boot up an app. Just plug it in, touch a button, make your change, save your change, unplug, touch the button again -- enjoy.

buzzard - glad the Punch setting helped to give you control

Vtx10be recommended for an sc10 2wd? I've got one in my b5, just checking to make sure that another model wouldn't be better suited. Thanks!

VTX10BE works awesome in an SC10 or any other 2wd SCT!

Awesome, very happy with it in my b5. Thanks Bob!

Nikos2002 - thanks for your answer. Totally makes sense.

I have a 1 1/2 year old VTX10 esc with a Viper 8.5 in a Durango DEX410.

Often (once a race or so) when I crash and end up on my lid, I get marshalled, and once on my wheels there is a 2-3 second period where I get no throttle (but the steering works).

Been happening for a few months, but never before that. Temps seem normal.

Any ideas?

usually means its losing power and rebooting. when mine did that it was a bad deans connector. check your connectors and solder joints.

+1^^^^^ Once my connectors started getting a bit old I started experiencing that too. If I trusted myself to plug the suckers in correctly every time I would eliminate the plug and go straight to the battery.

I'll try that, thanks!

Also check the wires on the esc real close i had one that was about 1 /12 years old also and after time of the wires going back and forth up and down one of my wires was worn in half , i replaced all the wires about 3 months ago and have had no trouble esc still going strong, you may want to just go ahead and just replace all the wires your self or have someone you trust do it for you.

I bought a used VTX10 Orange and didn't know it was bad. Needless to say I finally narrowed it down to the ESC after the thing ran three different motors around 200 degrees in a five minute heat and my VTX10 Black ran them 140 in the same amount of time. Two questions:

1. If I send this esc in, do I pay the $95 and get the same esc or can I get the Black in its place?

2. Did I damage these motors? All three have a burnt smell to them but didn't seem to exhibit loss of power when ran with the VTX10 Black. Any way to effectively test if they are damaged?

Thanks!


P.S. I learned my lesson and should have just bought new...oh well. At least my Black was new and it runs awesome!

I will let Nick confirm the trade in details. As far as the motors, once they get that smell, they usually are never the same. That's because that smell tends to come from heat and heat kills magnets. They may run for another year or two with no issues but I would replace them as you can and then just designate them as practice motors.

Over the years, I've kept motors that I thought were suspect and given them to kids, new guys, or people in a jam that smoked a motor at the track. You just have to make sure you tell them that the motor is in your junk pile for a reason, but it should get them a few solid runs until they can replace it.

pumpkin- when you do the trade in program you can get what ever item you would like, it does not have to be the same. Just note what you want on the form when you send it in with the old product. We will contact you for the final payment arrangements.

As for the motor smell - its the epoxy the covers the wires on the wire stacks. If they get too hot they can literally start to melt. They do create a smell. I have had motors that I ran up to 190 and 200. Yes they smelled a little bit, but they ran find afterwards, as ling as I didnt' do it again. One smelled for 2 race days, but the third, could not tell which one it was any more.