4LikesViper RC -
03-08-2014 | 06:04 PM
If your only gonna run 2s, I would look at the vtx10be. I just dropped one in my T4.2 and it's really working out good. Highly adjustable and easy to set up and make changes to the profile using the ez-link. As for the 17.5.... I don't have much time on it, but I can tell you it's got great torque and runs strong. For the few races I've been running it i'm impressed with the combo.
03-09-2014 | 11:57 AM
Tech Initiate
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 39
From: Omaha
A64 Upgrade + Dynamic Braking
Attached are the settings for the VTX10R with the new A64 firmware we've been testing.
Virtually none of the settings I've seen online take advantage of the Viper Dynamic Brake system, which I've found to be very valuable. Using the Dynamic Brake in the infield portions of any track will greatly improve your corner entry stability. Instead of the traditional 'push brake' of your transmitter, the Dynamic Brake settings allow a different driving style: accelerate, let go of the trigger, let the first stage of dynamic brake "hit" with medium strength, which then tapers to the traditional drag brake before making the turn.
To prevent 'nose diving' during jumps, you have to keep the trigger RPM pretty high (at least 5000 rpm) to prevent the rear wheels from braking/locking in the air.
Letting the VTX10 do most of the infield braking through the 2 stages of Dynamic Braking makes the buggy very stable and smooth. It takes a bit of patience to let the ESC do the job instead of constantly stabbing at the brakes with the receiver trigger, but it definitely cuts down on the constant chassis changes of nose-diving and squatting under traditional braking and accelerating.
You can always stab at the brakes when you need to, of course. Just an additional layer of predictably smooth braking which, again, no one really seems to take advantage of.
Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
Virtually none of the settings I've seen online take advantage of the Viper Dynamic Brake system, which I've found to be very valuable. Using the Dynamic Brake in the infield portions of any track will greatly improve your corner entry stability. Instead of the traditional 'push brake' of your transmitter, the Dynamic Brake settings allow a different driving style: accelerate, let go of the trigger, let the first stage of dynamic brake "hit" with medium strength, which then tapers to the traditional drag brake before making the turn.
To prevent 'nose diving' during jumps, you have to keep the trigger RPM pretty high (at least 5000 rpm) to prevent the rear wheels from braking/locking in the air.
Letting the VTX10 do most of the infield braking through the 2 stages of Dynamic Braking makes the buggy very stable and smooth. It takes a bit of patience to let the ESC do the job instead of constantly stabbing at the brakes with the receiver trigger, but it definitely cuts down on the constant chassis changes of nose-diving and squatting under traditional braking and accelerating.
You can always stab at the brakes when you need to, of course. Just an additional layer of predictably smooth braking which, again, no one really seems to take advantage of.
Robert Conner
Omaha, Nebraska
03-09-2014 | 07:01 PM
The dynamic brake settings are used more in on road. Some have found that it helps with certain driving styles. That is the great thing about all the options we present. You can fine tune it to your style and needs.
03-10-2014 | 10:49 AM
Is the VF4 going to be near, mid or long term at this point? I can already tell its going to be too hot this summer to run my VTX8 with the Red 4600. Already geared down to 13 to keep from temping out running SCT410 in blinky mode. Lost too much top end on the straight. 60% punch on a sticking track. Truck rolls nice and free.
03-11-2014 | 09:17 AM
Is the VF4 going to be near, mid or long term at this point? I can already tell its going to be too hot this summer to run my VTX8 with the Red 4600. Already geared down to 13 to keep from temping out running SCT410 in blinky mode. Lost too much top end on the straight. 60% punch on a sticking track. Truck rolls nice and free.
PM me with your esc settings, we can take a look at where you are with them as well to be sure.
03-13-2014 | 01:04 AM
Viper vst 10.5
So as Wildcat1971 knows I am a newbie. Anyway I am running a viper vtx10r and vst10.5 in my short course truck. I managed to smoke my motor today and am curious to know if it is possible to rebuild it, if so where would I look for the parts. I have no idea what happened as I have been running this set up from day 1 and when I installed it I was diligent in making sure my gear ratio was correct and checked my temps often.
03-13-2014 | 06:40 AM
If you check out www.viper-rc.com/tradein.php, there are options to replace with a new unit.
Only way a motor should ever 'burn up' (or smoke) is from gearing, running too long, or incorrect boost settings. While all have a possible heat factor to them, over revving (too high rpm) can also cause an issue.
Only way a motor should ever 'burn up' (or smoke) is from gearing, running too long, or incorrect boost settings. While all have a possible heat factor to them, over revving (too high rpm) can also cause an issue.
03-13-2014 | 06:53 AM
So as Wildcat1971 knows I am a newbie. Anyway I am running a viper vtx10r and vst10.5 in my short course truck. I managed to smoke my motor today and am curious to know if it is possible to rebuild it, if so where would I look for the parts. I have no idea what happened as I have been running this set up from day 1 and when I installed it I was diligent in making sure my gear ratio was correct and checked my temps often.