Viper RC -
#8641
wow, go away for a day and see what happens.
Rapid -- if your temping at 165-170 after you waited to pick up your truck, it was higher at some point. if your temp cut off was at 230 then your outside temps over 160-170 probably lead to cut off - remember the 230 is read off the rotor inside the motor with is easily 50-70 hotter than what is measured on the can. Does your track run longer mains than qualifiers?
Ruger - did you try a different motor? although I feel their may have already been a amp spike high enough to do damage, from your descriptions. would still try a different motor. Most 1/8 issues start from a spike or short coming from the motor.
Mike - I have been running the 12.3 a lot lately, and if my driving could keep up with my stuff, I would be a lot happier. I scare the leaders because after I have crashed 3-4 times and they lap me, I can follow them really easily - until I crash again......
Aussie - I don't know what "cheat" timing is.. more physical timing on the motor will generate little more power but also make more heat. So its a balancing act.
Rapid -- if your temping at 165-170 after you waited to pick up your truck, it was higher at some point. if your temp cut off was at 230 then your outside temps over 160-170 probably lead to cut off - remember the 230 is read off the rotor inside the motor with is easily 50-70 hotter than what is measured on the can. Does your track run longer mains than qualifiers?
Ruger - did you try a different motor? although I feel their may have already been a amp spike high enough to do damage, from your descriptions. would still try a different motor. Most 1/8 issues start from a spike or short coming from the motor.
Mike - I have been running the 12.3 a lot lately, and if my driving could keep up with my stuff, I would be a lot happier. I scare the leaders because after I have crashed 3-4 times and they lap me, I can follow them really easily - until I crash again......
Aussie - I don't know what "cheat" timing is.. more physical timing on the motor will generate little more power but also make more heat. So its a balancing act.
#8643
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
If you have the VTX8, you want A61.
If you have the VTX10 you want A55.
If any new firmwares are released, we will of course announce them here and on our site.
#8644
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
Bob - I wasn't able to temp it right after it cut out because the race had to finish before I could get my truck back. After the qualifiers when it didn't temp out I saw 165 to 177 degrees outside temp. I ordered the pc link this morning. Is it possible I don't have the latest update in my vtx8 and that's the problem? Will loading the A55 update really make a difference? Thanks for your help!
Try going up to a 14 tooth and see if your temps go up or down. Don't run it 6 min before you check........... Run it 3. Check temp. if it's ok, run it 5, check temp. If it's ok continue on this pattern until you hit 10 min. Make sure you disable the temp cutoff while testing.
#8645
Nikos - Most of the time club races are 5 min qual. and 8 min mains. Series races I've been running have been 8 min qual. and 10 min mains. Yesterday it got to about 6 1/2 minutes before it temped out but it felt like the motor was getting weak at about 5 minutes. Do you think updating the program in my VTX will help?
#8646
Tech Adept
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 129
From: Louisiana
Here we go again! VTX8/VST4.5XL in a SCTE 2.0 still shutting down! I am running profile 4 with no changes, 12 tooth pinion and the motor temp cut off is set at 230. Today it didn't have any problems during three qualifiers but in the eight minute main it shut down, again. This happens every week! I have tried turning down the punch, timing, different pinions and raising the motor temp cutoff. There is no binding in my drive train. I am out of ideas. This is the last shot for this set up. I am now know as the guy that always has problems. Any suggestions?
#8647
#8648
Tech Regular
iTrader: (40)
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 280
wow, go away for a day and see what happens.
Ruger - did you try a different motor? although I feel their may have already been a amp spike high enough to do damage, from your descriptions. would still try a different motor. Most 1/8 issues start from a spike or short coming from the motor.
Ruger - did you try a different motor? although I feel their may have already been a amp spike high enough to do damage, from your descriptions. would still try a different motor. Most 1/8 issues start from a spike or short coming from the motor.
#8649
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,071
I had a chance to run the Viper 4 pole 4500KV sct motor again last weekend. This motor is amazing and I had my punch set down to 72%.. I ran 4 battery packs through it in my Caster Rapture SCT...
www.casterracingparts.com
www.casterracingparts.com
#8652
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
This goes for everyone asking for gearing suggestions. We give you just that. Suggestions. You want to test them in your vehicles in the manner that I described. Please feel free to share your experiences and gearing setups once you get dialed in!
#8653
THR PWM FREG 9600
PUNCH 100
THROTTLE CURVE +EXP3
DEADBANG MIDDLE
#8654
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5
I got a weird situation going on with my vtx10. Right now it won't send any power to the motor, but the lights on the vport still light up like it is sending power to the motor. The forward light kicks on when I pull the trigger, but nothing at the motor. Same goes for reverse.
It all started shortly after a solder tab broke off my Novak motor. I went soldered it up to a fairly new RevTech motor, and it wouldn't get any power to the motor. I am thinking that I got a short circuit when this happened and fried the esc, but not sure.
Other systems electronic systems seem to be working fine. The servo is moving with no problems. The radio has had batteries changed, and rebound to the receiver. Still the problem persists.
I haven't ever updated the software on the viper, as I don't have to pc link cable.
It all started shortly after a solder tab broke off my Novak motor. I went soldered it up to a fairly new RevTech motor, and it wouldn't get any power to the motor. I am thinking that I got a short circuit when this happened and fried the esc, but not sure.
Other systems electronic systems seem to be working fine. The servo is moving with no problems. The radio has had batteries changed, and rebound to the receiver. Still the problem persists.
I haven't ever updated the software on the viper, as I don't have to pc link cable.
#8655
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 376
From: Maryland
I got a weird situation going on with my vtx10. Right now it won't send any power to the motor, but the lights on the vport still light up like it is sending power to the motor. The forward light kicks on when I pull the trigger, but nothing at the motor. Same goes for reverse.
It all started shortly after a solder tab broke off my Novak motor. I went soldered it up to a fairly new RevTech motor, and it wouldn't get any power to the motor. I am thinking that I got a short circuit when this happened and fried the esc, but not sure.
Other systems electronic systems seem to be working fine. The servo is moving with no problems. The radio has had batteries changed, and rebound to the receiver. Still the problem persists.
I haven't ever updated the software on the viper, as I don't have to pc link cable.
It all started shortly after a solder tab broke off my Novak motor. I went soldered it up to a fairly new RevTech motor, and it wouldn't get any power to the motor. I am thinking that I got a short circuit when this happened and fried the esc, but not sure.
Other systems electronic systems seem to be working fine. The servo is moving with no problems. The radio has had batteries changed, and rebound to the receiver. Still the problem persists.
I haven't ever updated the software on the viper, as I don't have to pc link cable.
Sounds like your sensor wire is lose or not plugged in.



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