Viper RC -
thanks. Other than that it looks good. initial throttle pulls feel good.
Do you have a recommended timing setting to use by default to start with, this would be a very small track, very loose conditions.
Do you have a recommended timing setting to use by default to start with, this would be a very small track, very loose conditions.
Looking some here at the office, including a warranty unit from a customer - the only one that you don't feel a "click" as the plug locks in - is one that looks like it has a bit of dirt inside. Doesn't effect the connection, it works, but doesn't have that "click" the other did.
Hope that helps answer your question.
Sorry, haven't been around much. Amain has two fan units listed for Viper, one for the 10 and the 10R. So I would use the one for the 10R? My set up gets so hot that it's shut down a couple of times. I've tried all kinds of different gear ratios and adjusting the brake and drive frequency with no luck in bringing the temps down. I know part of my issue was I was racing on carpet which has stupid traction and causes higher temps, but it still gets pretty hot on dirt too.
Amended after reading about the stator and rotor stuff, this happens with two different motors I run, and one I know was brand new so I'm not quite sure where to go with it.
Amended after reading about the stator and rotor stuff, this happens with two different motors I run, and one I know was brand new so I'm not quite sure where to go with it.
Variables, variables, variables. There are a quite a few. When you talk about heat, and how hot something gets look at this:
- Are you running a similar gear ratio to others you race with? If Yes, make sure your not running too long -- more than race distance will cause more heat.
- Is your motor running right? If its been hot too many times - rotor could be have lost some of it power, which would make it run inefficient, and that means more heat.
- Boost/Timing = yes, its faster, also can create more heat. Don't use it unless you have to. Be willing to experiment to find right set up and be open to that means setting it up wrong if you do.
- Airflow - some cars need air flow through the body - 4wd buggies are one, air flow can help. Fans are popular now to put on all types of vehicles to reduce motor temperatures. Our VTX speedos generally don't need fans unless you running a really low mod (like 4.5 in a touring car). Or one of the issues from above is effecting the process.
Just some thoughts to try and help...
- Are you running a similar gear ratio to others you race with? If Yes, make sure your not running too long -- more than race distance will cause more heat.
- Is your motor running right? If its been hot too many times - rotor could be have lost some of it power, which would make it run inefficient, and that means more heat.
- Boost/Timing = yes, its faster, also can create more heat. Don't use it unless you have to. Be willing to experiment to find right set up and be open to that means setting it up wrong if you do.
- Airflow - some cars need air flow through the body - 4wd buggies are one, air flow can help. Fans are popular now to put on all types of vehicles to reduce motor temperatures. Our VTX speedos generally don't need fans unless you running a really low mod (like 4.5 in a touring car). Or one of the issues from above is effecting the process.
Just some thoughts to try and help...
Tech Addict
iTrader: (19)
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 593
OK I have had enough 2 new vtx8 esc burn up within a few months of new come on this is a joke. these are the worst esc I have ever used I dought ill ever buy another and im sure everyone of my friends and racers that know me wont ever get one either after what they have seen. you guys ever hear of e fuses to protect things from blowing come on
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,595
From: Covington, La.
OK I have had enough 2 new vtx8 esc burn up within a few months of new come on this is a joke. these are the worst esc I have ever used I dought ill ever buy another and im sure everyone of my friends and racers that know me wont ever get one either after what they have seen. you guys ever hear of e fuses to protect things from blowing come on
still running 3 VTX8s here. Was looking at another for a "fun car" project since its waterproof.
Anyway, can you elaborate on what you are using for gear like motor, radio, lipo as well as settings you are using on the ESC?
Also any pics of the setup pre damage and after damage?
Anyway, can you elaborate on what you are using for gear like motor, radio, lipo as well as settings you are using on the ESC?
Also any pics of the setup pre damage and after damage?
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iTrader: (19)
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 593
lol I guess same setup for both times tekin eb48 viper vtx with a 2050 kv tekin motor gear was 16/45 radio don't matter but it is a m11x lipo is a smc 70c 6500 settings are stock but punch witch was 80% taken out I don't abuse my stuff and I have been racing for years. aperently my offroad racing it cant handle both lasted the same amount of time. and all my tekins and mambas and novak esc are all still fine and have years on them not weeks
With 1:8, most common issue leading to failure is motor. 4 pole motors can start to short out but keep running with all that internal wire. The short had to go somewhere - so the speedo takes the 'pain'. Along with checking motor temp after runs grab the motor lead wires. If one is hotter than the others it's a sign of a bad pole in the motor. Motor sensors can also be effected by the abuse we all put these cars through (8lbs vehicle going 20 mph hitting the ground). They can short as well.
Another note. If you ever see 'smoke' coming off the speedo.. That is from an outside cause. If the speedo fails internally. The power is cut off and it stops. To get to a point where smoke is involved. The electrical short has to go on for a while, like crossed wires or overheated connection.
Another note. If you ever see 'smoke' coming off the speedo.. That is from an outside cause. If the speedo fails internally. The power is cut off and it stops. To get to a point where smoke is involved. The electrical short has to go on for a while, like crossed wires or overheated connection.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (19)
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 593
With 1:8, most common issue leading to failure is motor. 4 pole motors can start to short out but keep running with all that internal wire. The short had to go somewhere - so the speedo takes the 'pain'. Along with checking motor temp after runs grab the motor lead wires. If one is hotter than the others it's a sign of a bad pole in the motor. Motor sensors can also be effected by the abuse we all put these cars through (8lbs vehicle going 20 mph hitting the ground). They can short as well.
Another note. If you ever see 'smoke' coming off the speedo.. That is from an outside cause. If the speedo fails internally. The power is cut off and it stops. To get to a point where smoke is involved. The electrical short has to go on for a while, like crossed wires or overheated connection.
Another note. If you ever see 'smoke' coming off the speedo.. That is from an outside cause. If the speedo fails internally. The power is cut off and it stops. To get to a point where smoke is involved. The electrical short has to go on for a while, like crossed wires or overheated connection.
When calibrating the VTX8 and VTX10R do I go to 100% F 100% B of the full parameter of the radio?
Example,
My Airtronics MT4 settings will go to 150% F and 150% B, that's the max.
Do I set it at 100 or 150?
Also does viper sell spare carbon fiber fan mounts from the VTX8?
Example,
My Airtronics MT4 settings will go to 150% F and 150% B, that's the max.
Do I set it at 100 or 150?
Also does viper sell spare carbon fiber fan mounts from the VTX8?
I've been setting mine at 100% forward and reverse. I didn't really notice a difference between my Airtronics 120% and 100%. It just lets me use a more intuitive/meaningful set point if I want to change it.
reddeath360, your feedback is I'm sure appreciated. Attacks are not.
reddeath360, your feedback is I'm sure appreciated. Attacks are not.
If you have any questions about our warranty policy you can PM me directly, would be glad to answer them. As with most electronics companies our warranty is from date of purchase. If a warranty exchange is made during the designated period, it does not reset the entire warranty. If it were to happen towards the end, we would supply a grace period. But if you had been using the unit the majority of the warranty period, not much chance of a manufacturing defect. That would typically occur the first use or two at most.



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