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Old 09-18-2014 | 10:17 AM
  #10891  
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thanks. Other than that it looks good. initial throttle pulls feel good.

Do you have a recommended timing setting to use by default to start with, this would be a very small track, very loose conditions.
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Old 09-18-2014 | 10:23 AM
  #10892  
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Originally Posted by Neverstop
What can be done to help the pro gauge connection over time it keeps getting looser and coming unplugged while programing.
Check to make sure there isn't anything in the port - some dirt or anything that would block the connection. I haven't had one so loose that it would not stay in. Only if I didn't push it all the way in.

Looking some here at the office, including a warranty unit from a customer - the only one that you don't feel a "click" as the plug locks in - is one that looks like it has a bit of dirt inside. Doesn't effect the connection, it works, but doesn't have that "click" the other did.

Hope that helps answer your question.
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Old 09-18-2014 | 10:59 AM
  #10893  
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Sorry, haven't been around much. Amain has two fan units listed for Viper, one for the 10 and the 10R. So I would use the one for the 10R? My set up gets so hot that it's shut down a couple of times. I've tried all kinds of different gear ratios and adjusting the brake and drive frequency with no luck in bringing the temps down. I know part of my issue was I was racing on carpet which has stupid traction and causes higher temps, but it still gets pretty hot on dirt too.

Amended after reading about the stator and rotor stuff, this happens with two different motors I run, and one I know was brand new so I'm not quite sure where to go with it.
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Old 09-18-2014 | 03:19 PM
  #10894  
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Variables, variables, variables. There are a quite a few. When you talk about heat, and how hot something gets look at this:
- Are you running a similar gear ratio to others you race with? If Yes, make sure your not running too long -- more than race distance will cause more heat.
- Is your motor running right? If its been hot too many times - rotor could be have lost some of it power, which would make it run inefficient, and that means more heat.
- Boost/Timing = yes, its faster, also can create more heat. Don't use it unless you have to. Be willing to experiment to find right set up and be open to that means setting it up wrong if you do.
- Airflow - some cars need air flow through the body - 4wd buggies are one, air flow can help. Fans are popular now to put on all types of vehicles to reduce motor temperatures. Our VTX speedos generally don't need fans unless you running a really low mod (like 4.5 in a touring car). Or one of the issues from above is effecting the process.

Just some thoughts to try and help...
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Old 09-19-2014 | 04:53 PM
  #10895  
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OK I have had enough 2 new vtx8 esc burn up within a few months of new come on this is a joke. these are the worst esc I have ever used I dought ill ever buy another and im sure everyone of my friends and racers that know me wont ever get one either after what they have seen. you guys ever hear of e fuses to protect things from blowing come on
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Old 09-19-2014 | 05:12 PM
  #10896  
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Originally Posted by reddeath360
OK I have had enough 2 new vtx8 esc burn up within a few months of new come on this is a joke. these are the worst esc I have ever used I dought ill ever buy another and im sure everyone of my friends and racers that know me wont ever get one either after what they have seen. you guys ever hear of e fuses to protect things from blowing come on
I bought my vtx8 used and have been running it for a year and a half. Are you sure there isn't an issue with the motor causing them to go out?
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Old 09-19-2014 | 06:58 PM
  #10897  
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still running 3 VTX8s here. Was looking at another for a "fun car" project since its waterproof.

Anyway, can you elaborate on what you are using for gear like motor, radio, lipo as well as settings you are using on the ESC?

Also any pics of the setup pre damage and after damage?
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Old 09-19-2014 | 07:15 PM
  #10898  
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lol I guess same setup for both times tekin eb48 viper vtx with a 2050 kv tekin motor gear was 16/45 radio don't matter but it is a m11x lipo is a smc 70c 6500 settings are stock but punch witch was 80% taken out I don't abuse my stuff and I have been racing for years. aperently my offroad racing it cant handle both lasted the same amount of time. and all my tekins and mambas and novak esc are all still fine and have years on them not weeks
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Old 09-20-2014 | 12:38 PM
  #10899  
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With 1:8, most common issue leading to failure is motor. 4 pole motors can start to short out but keep running with all that internal wire. The short had to go somewhere - so the speedo takes the 'pain'. Along with checking motor temp after runs grab the motor lead wires. If one is hotter than the others it's a sign of a bad pole in the motor. Motor sensors can also be effected by the abuse we all put these cars through (8lbs vehicle going 20 mph hitting the ground). They can short as well.

Another note. If you ever see 'smoke' coming off the speedo.. That is from an outside cause. If the speedo fails internally. The power is cut off and it stops. To get to a point where smoke is involved. The electrical short has to go on for a while, like crossed wires or overheated connection.
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Old 09-20-2014 | 08:09 PM
  #10900  
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Originally Posted by nikos2002
With 1:8, most common issue leading to failure is motor. 4 pole motors can start to short out but keep running with all that internal wire. The short had to go somewhere - so the speedo takes the 'pain'. Along with checking motor temp after runs grab the motor lead wires. If one is hotter than the others it's a sign of a bad pole in the motor. Motor sensors can also be effected by the abuse we all put these cars through (8lbs vehicle going 20 mph hitting the ground). They can short as well.

Another note. If you ever see 'smoke' coming off the speedo.. That is from an outside cause. If the speedo fails internally. The power is cut off and it stops. To get to a point where smoke is involved. The electrical short has to go on for a while, like crossed wires or overheated connection.
i know all this what you fail to understand is your esc is the only ones that fail and fail fast my track has 50 foot jumps and they dont hold up its not the motor as it does just fine with my tekin rx8. you esc just cant handle the shock like they should
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Old 09-20-2014 | 08:11 PM
  #10901  
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sad part is i just sent this one in and it lasted about the same time and because you guys dont renew your product from the date it was referbished im out my money
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Old 09-22-2014 | 12:37 AM
  #10902  
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When calibrating the VTX8 and VTX10R do I go to 100% F 100% B of the full parameter of the radio?


Example,
My Airtronics MT4 settings will go to 150% F and 150% B, that's the max.

Do I set it at 100 or 150?


Also does viper sell spare carbon fiber fan mounts from the VTX8?
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Old 09-22-2014 | 04:40 AM
  #10903  
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I've been setting mine at 100% forward and reverse. I didn't really notice a difference between my Airtronics 120% and 100%. It just lets me use a more intuitive/meaningful set point if I want to change it.

reddeath360, your feedback is I'm sure appreciated. Attacks are not.
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Old 09-23-2014 | 05:31 PM
  #10904  
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Originally Posted by reddeath360
i know all this what you fail to understand is your esc is the only ones that fail and fail fast my track has 50 foot jumps and they dont hold up its not the motor as it does just fine with my tekin rx8. you esc just cant handle the shock like they should
Sorry to hear that you are having any issues. We seem to have our units survive at tracks with large jumps around the country. Generally our epoxy sealed units survive better in that type of situation, we hear stories of other units that have to be opened and modified to handle those landings. Also might want to check the sensor in your motor. Our system is sensored only, so it if fails (its an electronics device) it could cause an issue with our system. Others that run sensorless, it wont effect it. But you don't gain the sensor advantages.

If you have any questions about our warranty policy you can PM me directly, would be glad to answer them. As with most electronics companies our warranty is from date of purchase. If a warranty exchange is made during the designated period, it does not reset the entire warranty. If it were to happen towards the end, we would supply a grace period. But if you had been using the unit the majority of the warranty period, not much chance of a manufacturing defect. That would typically occur the first use or two at most.
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Old 09-23-2014 | 05:36 PM
  #10905  
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do they make programing for a vtx10 to run a tekin pro2 motor? It is a 4 pole made for 2wd sc.
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