That is how I'm driving to, saw the VIPER drivers driving punch at 100% look so much to me...

That Punch control is something that the driver can control as well with a "light" trigger finger. If you can manipulate the throttle without getting wheel spin off the corner - it also probably means you don't all use full throttle as well.

Think of it this way. When you drive your car down the street - you don't slam the throttle to the floor every time you accelerate -- it would waste gas. With electronics, you do that, you waste energy, wasted energy becomes heat. Lowering the Punch, control how much energy goes to the motor instantly, thus saving energy -- no wheel spin, no excess heat...

question in general on motors, if you get one that has that *awesome* burnt smell to it, where do you look first to see what actually was damaged.

That's true indeed

My experience has been that the burnt smell is from the epoxy that holds the windings together getting to hot. Once that happens I just retire the motor. That much heat also causes the magnets to weaken.

What can be done to help the pro gauge connection over time it keeps getting looser and coming unplugged while programing.

Hmmm...that's a new one. Anyone else encounter this?

Pertaining to the question about burnt smells coming from motors: In theory, the epoxy should melt and allow windings to short before true damage can be done to the magnets in the rotor. The sintering process alone I believe has more temp than can typically be generated by Jim-Bob and his overgeared Traxxas Slash. I was going to test this with a Thunder Power 8.5 turn that I let the smell out of a while back. I was going to try just replacing the stator and see if the motor ran close to normal again. Just haven't stumbled across the extra disposable income to follow through with the test.

thanks.

So if I open the motor up I am assuming this is something easy to notice?

Got a seller saying it was a motor tossed in a bag with one that burned up and hence the smell transferred. Other than the smell the motor looks good, but still curious.

You won't be able to see the melted epoxy most likely. I wasn't able to anyways. However, the stator will be where the majority of the stink comes from. I also did multiple things to try to determine whether the stator was actually shorted without much success.

Cain, its possible that it got to the edge - started to get the epoxy hot (which would make it smell) but stop. If the rotor still spins freely then the stator is not shorted out. If you have a hard time spinning the rotor, it might be too much. The other side to that that is that if it got really hot, the rotor can lose some of its magnetic power, which could also cause a motor to keep running hot, because its not working efficiently as designed.

Our VST motors, as an example, we use a heavier epoxy, so it can happen and you can start to smell that "burn" smell but the motor can keep running.

If you look inside the motor you will see if its melted or discolored. Check the picture I attached -- little extreme but the left is what happens when it gets too hot, the right is a new stator.

Would have helped if I posted the picture......

big thanks!

will give it a teardown and see. there rating is pretty high so it may be like they said.

alright gave it a look it looks more like the right so I am going to wire it up and see how it goes.

Cain - only other thing I would watch for is that if you still feel its running too hot with the "correct" gear ratio, be mindful that the rotor may have been overheated and lost some power.