Viper RC -
#9676
For the EPA 100 or 150 question -- 100 will give you the linear feel the software is designed to work within. 150 (you set it to 150 and then calibrate your esc) will make it feel softer throughout the throttle throw, because you are traveling a longer distance with the trigger to full throttle. Maybe with a low turn mod, it might make it different to drive, but under most circumstances I would stick with the 100, as designed.
#9677
Tech Rookie
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 4
Rheal,
180 degree turns on a medium size indoor track. You will be fine running a 15 tooth. That is safe. Always check temps a few minutes into a run to ensure all is good. Also, remember to practice no longer than your main event. If you run a 7 minute main, then practice for 7 minutes at a time. Ensure you never run a battery pack all the way down to low voltage cutoff as that is not good for your battery and the additional run time may allow your motor and esc to continue to generate too much heat, causing a premature end of life of your electronics...
Have fun!
180 degree turns on a medium size indoor track. You will be fine running a 15 tooth. That is safe. Always check temps a few minutes into a run to ensure all is good. Also, remember to practice no longer than your main event. If you run a 7 minute main, then practice for 7 minutes at a time. Ensure you never run a battery pack all the way down to low voltage cutoff as that is not good for your battery and the additional run time may allow your motor and esc to continue to generate too much heat, causing a premature end of life of your electronics...
Have fun!
Thank you for all the advise. I will follow it and do my best to track temps and not run until I hit the cutoff.
Rheal
#9678
Tech Regular
iTrader: (36)
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 273
From: Littleton
If a capacitor fails on a VTX series speed control, what happens to the speed control?
I ask because I just recently has to speed controls shut down mid race in my 22sct and not restart. When the 1st one died I soldered in my spare, I reused the capacitor (http://www.shopviperrc.com/ProductDe...ode=6VSPCAP005). I'm going to try to solder in the old capacitor but I'm doubtful. The 1st speed control ran the capacitor for 3 months.
Any other things to brainstorm as to why the speed control might just die mid race? I'm going to toss the motor, just-in-case. The motor is almost a year old, no overheats though.
Edit: Makes me wish I purchased more then one VTX10r from the Black Friday deal.
I ask because I just recently has to speed controls shut down mid race in my 22sct and not restart. When the 1st one died I soldered in my spare, I reused the capacitor (http://www.shopviperrc.com/ProductDe...ode=6VSPCAP005). I'm going to try to solder in the old capacitor but I'm doubtful. The 1st speed control ran the capacitor for 3 months.
Any other things to brainstorm as to why the speed control might just die mid race? I'm going to toss the motor, just-in-case. The motor is almost a year old, no overheats though.
Edit: Makes me wish I purchased more then one VTX10r from the Black Friday deal.
#9679
Yes, the trigger only travels so far -- but if you increase the end point adjustment it changes how the esc will react to the every little application of the throttle. If the EPA is too high, it might make you feel like you have the pull the trigger more, to get a reaction from the motor. Conversely, if you lower it, it will feel like a "hairpin" trigger.
#9681
Good Luck to everyone running Viper products this weekend at CRCRC Mid West Champs in OH. I spoke with a couple guys already getting set up and everything last night and this morning. Look around - JP Richards, Paul Sinclair, Bob Barry, Mark Samuelson and more!!!!
#9682
If a capacitor fails on a VTX series speed control, what happens to the speed control?
I ask because I just recently has to speed controls shut down mid race in my 22sct and not restart. When the 1st one died I soldered in my spare, I reused the capacitor (http://www.shopviperrc.com/ProductDe...ode=6VSPCAP005). I'm going to try to solder in the old capacitor but I'm doubtful. The 1st speed control ran the capacitor for 3 months.
Any other things to brainstorm as to why the speed control might just die mid race? I'm going to toss the motor, just-in-case. The motor is almost a year old, no overheats though.
Edit: Makes me wish I purchased more then one VTX10r from the Black Friday deal.
I ask because I just recently has to speed controls shut down mid race in my 22sct and not restart. When the 1st one died I soldered in my spare, I reused the capacitor (http://www.shopviperrc.com/ProductDe...ode=6VSPCAP005). I'm going to try to solder in the old capacitor but I'm doubtful. The 1st speed control ran the capacitor for 3 months.
Any other things to brainstorm as to why the speed control might just die mid race? I'm going to toss the motor, just-in-case. The motor is almost a year old, no overheats though.
Edit: Makes me wish I purchased more then one VTX10r from the Black Friday deal.

#9683
Need some help with gearing with my Vtx10/17.5 setup. I am running a RC10 T4.2 with a FDR of 5.48 mid timing on end bell and blinky mode on esc. It had no pop. It felt flat and I really had to concentrate and keep momentum up. Track is a small indoor carpet with the fast guys running 17/18 second laps in their buggies.Motor was temping between 150 and 160.
#9684
Yes, the trigger only travels so far -- but if you increase the end point adjustment it changes how the esc will react to the every little application of the throttle. If the EPA is too high, it might make you feel like you have the pull the trigger more, to get a reaction from the motor. Conversely, if you lower it, it will feel like a "hairpin" trigger.
How many bits does the ESC sample the throttle signal at? And during calibration is full throttle on the tx (at whatever pwm full throttle on the tx is) mapped to the highest number of bits? ie, if it's 8 bit, is whatever is calibrated as full throttle equals 2^8?
#9685
Need some help with gearing with my Vtx10/17.5 setup. I am running a RC10 T4.2 with a FDR of 5.48 mid timing on end bell and blinky mode on esc. It had no pop. It felt flat and I really had to concentrate and keep momentum up. Track is a small indoor carpet with the fast guys running 17/18 second laps in their buggies.Motor was temping between 150 and 160.
Even more "pop" turn off your deadband and adjust your throttle pwm down to around 4000.
At this point you are over geared so the motor can't spool up to its optimal RPM which is why you have less low end and high temps.
#9686
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,412
Building an SC10 4x4 right now. Will be running the Exotek chassis. The chassis weighs about 140g more then stock. Trying to decide on a motor and esc. I had a 4000kv Tekin Pro4 in my SCTE and hated it. It was too much torque and hard to control. I want something smoother. Race on a medium indoor track about 15 second laps. Trying to decide between:
VTX10R or VTX8
and
VST 4.5 XL or VST 5.0 L
I run a 7.5 wheeler and 8.5 in 2wd buggy. Just not interested in 4 pole. Thanks.
VTX10R or VTX8
and
VST 4.5 XL or VST 5.0 L
I run a 7.5 wheeler and 8.5 in 2wd buggy. Just not interested in 4 pole. Thanks.
Last edited by chevmaro; 01-11-2014 at 11:28 PM.
#9688
Hi guys,
I'm thinking of trying a VXT1 in my 1/12 scale.
Any feedback about the results you guys have been getting.
Question? I see the specs say up to 5.5v on the bec.
Is this true? Can it go higher?
My current speedy's spec says 6v.
Looks like a very nice speedy
Steve h
I'm thinking of trying a VXT1 in my 1/12 scale.
Any feedback about the results you guys have been getting.
Question? I see the specs say up to 5.5v on the bec.
Is this true? Can it go higher?
My current speedy's spec says 6v.
Looks like a very nice speedy
Steve h
#9689
Steve,
VTX1 is 2 time and current defending ROAR National 1/12 17.5 class winner -- to mention performance possibilities.
Yes the SBEC is rated at 5.5v, would mean you might use slightly different dual rate or expo, wouldn't be a huge difference overall. I have used it in my 1/10 buggy and didn't notice difference between 5.5v and 6.0v from my VTX10.
chevmaro - I agree with Cain - VTX8 for anything 4wd SC. will run the VST XL motors easily. Using a VXT10R would be making it work at the maximum of its performance range, it could do it, but the VTX8 would be safer overall.
VTX1 is 2 time and current defending ROAR National 1/12 17.5 class winner -- to mention performance possibilities.
Yes the SBEC is rated at 5.5v, would mean you might use slightly different dual rate or expo, wouldn't be a huge difference overall. I have used it in my 1/10 buggy and didn't notice difference between 5.5v and 6.0v from my VTX10.
chevmaro - I agree with Cain - VTX8 for anything 4wd SC. will run the VST XL motors easily. Using a VXT10R would be making it work at the maximum of its performance range, it could do it, but the VTX8 would be safer overall.
#9690
Tech Addict
iTrader: (32)
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 526
From: GA
Building an SC10 4x4 right now. Will be running the Exotek chassis. The chassis weighs about 140g more then stock. Trying to decide on a motor and esc. I had a 4000kv Tekin Pro4 in my SCTE and hated it. It was too much torque and hard to control. I want something smoother. Race on a medium indoor track about 15 second laps. Trying to decide between:
VTX10R or VTX8
and
VST 4.5 XL or VST 5.0 L
I run a 7.5 wheeler and 8.5 in 2wd buggy. Just not interested in 4 pole. Thanks.
VTX10R or VTX8
and
VST 4.5 XL or VST 5.0 L
I run a 7.5 wheeler and 8.5 in 2wd buggy. Just not interested in 4 pole. Thanks.



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