MATT1970 - i was having this issue recently and possible the same. Look at the lights on the programming switch when it happens - are they alternating red/orange (F/R)

could be short. I found my negative battery connection (2 month old buggy, but the cheap bullet connectors) was slightly wobbly. replaced with good bullets (castle - solid style, not the spring type) and problem resolved.
had me going crazy..

I put new deans connector on ESC when it was new and it's been doing it since esc was new. I don't see anything obvious but may change it out just to make sure. I know it's not battery connector because I have tried many batteries including new batteries and they all have done it. I use the same batteries on my other cars with no problems.

have you by any chance tried a new RX? I am wondering if it is browning out and causing the esc to try and re connect?

Are you using plugs between the ESC and motor? I believe those can supply a spike back to the ESC as well. Check those. I wire directly to the motor for this very reason.

Can you try the following based on what has been suggested and what I am thinking too:

- Run with battery cut-off set to off for the time amount you usually see the issue (Now, be careful with this, don't just start wailing out 20 minutes runs )

- Set cutoff to 6.0V and then run again if the previous step worked.

- put a voltage glitch capacitor on the receiver and then give it a run as a seperate new process than what is described above if it doesn't work, could even do this first.

OK. I'll look into these. The receiver was a new Futaba, but I can switch with another one I have and see if it effects that if needed. And, no there is no connector between esc and motor. It is wired direct. Thanks.

Hi All. Just got to run my new vtx10r with a vst 8.5 motor in my X60cf. it replaced a castle sidewinder with a 4 pole 3800kv. first impressions, way smoother power delivery from a stand still to about 2/3 speed, from there on to seems to labor at hi speed where the castle seemed to love to rev with good power. I started out with a 20t pinion and 78 spur, after 5 laps (SRS Phoenix) I pulled in to check temps, the esc was at 106 the motor was at 168. Surprised to say the least, wasn't expecting to see temps that hi. I set the esc to #2 profile when I installed the system. It was reving out on the main straight so I bumped the pinion to 22, better on the straight but not enough so went to 24, speed was good but the castle still had top end on it, still getting hot after 5 laps or so and still seems to be laboring at hi rpms. I could run the castle until the low voltage shut it down with temps around 150 on the motor. It was much easier to drive as throttle control was excellent as was the braking, just need to get a handle on the heat, any ideas?

The biggest issue is that you are comparing a 4 pole motor to a 2 pole motor. A 2 pole motor will have less torque. You will have to go with a lower wind 2 pole motor to equal that 4 pole.

I believe he's saying the castle had more top end.

The 4 pole motor will push the larger pinion easier resulting in more top end speed with lower heat.

The torque is good from stand still 2/3, just seems a little flat on the top end and getting hot. I don't want to mess with the setting for the top end until I understand why its getting hot so fast.

because the 4 pole motor has more power and is able to still push it at top speed with out overheating.

Alright guys I am having my first real problem with my Vipers.

So I am all excited I finally got my fun truck together, a Kyosho Mad Force with some upgrades to try and make it look like a lifted truck.

Went to test the electronics and now the fun begins.

To give some background here is the electronics I am using:

- Futaba 4PL, receiver is a R2104 S-FHSS
- 4S single lipo pack, SMC 5000mah
- Tekin 2000Kv Gen 2 Truggy motor
- Viper VTX8
- Xpert WR7701 Waterproof Servo

Now, I mentioned on the xpert thread an issue I noticed with the servo that it seemed louder going one direction than the other, haven't heard anything back about that though.

Anyway, so I go to try the vehicle, esc powers up, lots of power from a few quick pulls. I put it down and start to adjust things with the servo and then suddenly I notice I have no throttle.

The switch is light up 2 lights with one in the middle not lit up, then the neutral position light is lit up in the neutral position. The fan that started fine also just shut off.

The lights lit up would be:
P
S
N

I unplug the battery as I can't get it to shut off, plug it back in, all chimes like it should no prob. Try to get going again and as soon as I move the steering all does the same thing again.

I think maybe setting on my BEC is too aggressive, I drop it down to 6.0V from the 8.0V I had. Try it again, same thing.

This time I try it one more time, unplug then plug in again, and now I just got 1 red light the P light shining very brightly and there appears to be a very low light on the S light, almost like the light from the P light is spilling over into the S light. Nothing else. Will not go from that setting, tried it a few times, nothing

ESC wont' respond.

Anyone have any ideas of things I need to check and any way to get it out of this mode?

More ticked as finally got the gear to run my vehicle, and now this

And to build on this, for the past hour I have tried a few other things, mainly plugging in, out, letting it sit, then trying again Even tried connecting it to my VLink, no go

Matt1970 - if the settings are where you listed, the car looses power but not steering, no error lights on the speed control - the receiver is loosing its connection to the speed control. Worked with a team driver a few month back that had similar issue, that was related to receiver loosing connection or power - updated receiver and it worked for him. That being said - all the things the guys were saying about connectors and batteries are true as well. Also double check solder joints on connectors (like the one of the speed control). When the esc stops - it will give you an error code -- or cut off completely. Low voltage cut off will take motor away motor power and keep steering. If the problem one occurs late in the run, it could be hitting low voltage cut off. If it happens anytime - would try and look and see if light on receiver is on when it happens, or if its blinking. PM me if you have more questions.

afm237 - like Jim said it hard to direct compare 2 pole vs. 4 pole. SRS is probably one of the few places there is enough traction to get a 4pole to run on a 2wd truck. Plus if you go by kv ratings (hard from one mfg to another) the 4 pole motor at 3800kv is a lot more power than a 2 pole 4000kv. Some drivers run 6.5 motors in their SC. That being said ---- with my x60cf - I found the 81 gear is better for mod motors, but you have to be aware, it will slightly hit on the outdrive. With the 78 gear it was hard to get all the bottom end acceleration. Also things to check on the 10R - look at Punch setting - again at SRS with the traction you can probably turn that up from the default. Those might help as well.