That's to much typing Cain. Its on the profile for 4wd sc on 2s. I have changed the brake and throttle settings but everything else is right for what I am running.

So everything else is stock to that profile?

Not saying it something in your settings, could be something crapped out, just curious as it may be something in there.

Yea I don't think its in the settings. I'm up to date on the settings for Viper ESC's and I've had a team driver look at it also. Its only 6 months old so I'm going to fill out a RMA and see if they will help me out on it. My truck was stolen at the AMS race this year and Drake helped me out on a new one but it seems its one thing after another with this one.

That's motor temp cutoff. Try raising it. External temp is about 40-60 degrees cooler than what the sensor gets internally.

yeah, curious about that.

My issue I am having is definitely more "fun" if you can call it that lol.

Oh, someone send nikos some chicken soup!

The servo will work with higher voltage - the question is more that if the electronics can handle it. It depends on what the voltage limit on the internal parts would be. Contact the servo mfg to get more details. Also remember that 2-3 years ago, the idea of raising servo voltage was not around fully, so some mfg might handle it better than others.

The F and R light alternating means the system is detecting a spike from something. Check the solder joints on your battery connector, if not the who connector or bullets. If they are loose or worm it could cause an arc -- which the esc would detect has a spike.

If they are flashing together - its a temperature cut off. Adjust the cut off information accordingly. Depending on the set up and gearing you have to run for your track, you may just need to disable it and monitor with a temp gun -- that is truly the best way.

nikos, I've noticed the other day my VTX8 wouldn't power up all the way. best I can describe it is the power up sequence it does never completed and it never made the beeps. it's done this about 3 times to me. I had to unplug the battery to get it to shut off to power it back up and it completed the cycle this time. but I think it's only done this to me with my older battery but i will have to test this as I forget.
also I had trouble getting it to connect with the programmer.
any thoughts on this?

Did it basically go to the one red powerlight and nothing else, and you had to pull the battery connection to get it to turn off?

Have you changed anything in your setup at all, new receiver, servo etc.?

I forget the light. but I think it was just a single red.
I haven't changed anything but try to use a old set of 7.4 batteries with a series (castle creations) wire set. they're not technically old though. I've never used them in anything because they're slightly too long to fit my cars. so i used them in my starter box. but they've never been ran down or used in a car.
but I notice they are really weak compared to a 4s. but I was in a hurry and am not 100% sure if it was these batteries in it when it did this or not.

just thought it was odd and wondered if it's some kind of system fault or designed to do this on purpose.

So basically running some older 2S lipos in series?

From what I have seen and someone more knowledgeable can correct me if I am wrong, but at least for initial power up I haven't had issues related to using a lower voltage battery versus one that is higher voltage. I tried a few different batteries from a 6V one to a 14.8V one and still would get the same issue you are having. Though, the reason as to why for my issue, I got a strong indication as to what is causing it as I was able to replicate the failure to a point (I didn't want to brick another VTX8) just like I was getting with my now bricked VTX8.

mtpocketsracing - when you power up the system - it does the first set of tones and stops -- means the esc can not find the neutral signal from the radio. So it does not arm. Might want to try re-bind radio and receiver. If its an older battery it may have trouble with power to receiver. Typically if its an issue with the esc, it would just not work. A random issue normally comes from an outside source or setting.

[QUOTE=nikos2002;13721300]The F and R light alternating means the system is detecting a spike from something. Check the solder joints on your battery connector, if not the who connector or bullets. If they are loose or worm it could cause an arc -- which the esc would detect has a spike.

I had the F and R light alternating this weekend during Friday practice before the N.I.S. race it would stop during a run and be flashing, i checked all connections they were all good i ended up tracking my battery's it ended up only happening on just one of my three batteries for my 4x4 short course, after scraping that one my VTX 8 ran prefect all weekend so must be a loose connection in that battery, just passing on what happened to me on the problem and how it was corrected.

One other thing any word on the new 540 motors I'm ready for a new 17.5...

now that you mention it I could have had my radio (airtronics m11x) set on another vehicle.
I will be keeping an eye on this hopefully it was from those batteries. this was the first time I tried them in my buggy.

Viper has a blowout sale going got my order in....