Viper RC -
I plug in the ESC to the Lipo, open the Tx, and then hold down the red button waiting for the two beeps. Yes this is being done while it is off.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7Z_...ist=WL&index=3
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 228
From: Really Southern Ca.
That is just about what mine was doing. No matter what I could not turn it off or get it into program mode.
I was able to get it to program with the PC link after about 45 minutes of very adult words. After updating to the new firmware, I was able to program it, but it has other issues now. I am not able to turn off the drag break, the LVC kicks in at around 7.1 volts even though I have it set for 2.0 volts.
I should have it in the mail on Tuesday. Should I send the motor and ESC or just the ESC?
Buzz.
I was able to get it to program with the PC link after about 45 minutes of very adult words. After updating to the new firmware, I was able to program it, but it has other issues now. I am not able to turn off the drag break, the LVC kicks in at around 7.1 volts even though I have it set for 2.0 volts.
I should have it in the mail on Tuesday. Should I send the motor and ESC or just the ESC?
Buzz.
Deven - Jim sent me your video -- some things to check and try.
- on your radio - make your your EPA is set at 100 for throttle and brake no EXP
- when you hold the bottom down for the programming (in the video) thought it would be just a few more second before the calibration starts. BTW, if the unit doesn't calibrate it doesn't know its in neutral, so it wont turn off by the VPort, need to be in neutral.
- ---If holding it down longer doesn't make any effect. Check these steps:
- Make sure plug is in receiver in the correct direction - positive, negative, signal wire -- for your receiver
- make sure its in the correct slot for a speed control (typically Channel 2 or it will say THR or THL)
- If your radio has multiple models - try a different model
- On your transmitter - move your throttle trim forward about 3-4 clicks - then start calibration process (do not move the trim back), this moves neutral point in signal, so its clearer.
Another thing I like to do if anything is happening strange, is go back to basics. Take out the electronics and clean out the car, then put all the pieces back in - electronics are funny, sometimes they just want a little TLC.
PM me if you have any more questions.
- on your radio - make your your EPA is set at 100 for throttle and brake no EXP
- when you hold the bottom down for the programming (in the video) thought it would be just a few more second before the calibration starts. BTW, if the unit doesn't calibrate it doesn't know its in neutral, so it wont turn off by the VPort, need to be in neutral.
- ---If holding it down longer doesn't make any effect. Check these steps:
- Make sure plug is in receiver in the correct direction - positive, negative, signal wire -- for your receiver
- make sure its in the correct slot for a speed control (typically Channel 2 or it will say THR or THL)
- If your radio has multiple models - try a different model
- On your transmitter - move your throttle trim forward about 3-4 clicks - then start calibration process (do not move the trim back), this moves neutral point in signal, so its clearer.
Another thing I like to do if anything is happening strange, is go back to basics. Take out the electronics and clean out the car, then put all the pieces back in - electronics are funny, sometimes they just want a little TLC.
PM me if you have any more questions.
Buzzard - before you send it in - check the settings you are running with.
- If the system has too much drag brake either the drag brake or Smart Brake settings are too high. If you have changed them - check to verify you saved the settings after the change. Other than esc also check that motor and transmission are spinning freely, because that can lock up the rear as well and feel like drag brake.
-- How exactly is the system cutting off? Because our LVC cut off software version a64 is not a cut off. You loose throttle control but keep steering. If using older version software - the unit will shut off and reset itself (a hard reset - play the tune, lights flash, whole start up cycle). PM me with which issue you are having.
- If the system has too much drag brake either the drag brake or Smart Brake settings are too high. If you have changed them - check to verify you saved the settings after the change. Other than esc also check that motor and transmission are spinning freely, because that can lock up the rear as well and feel like drag brake.
-- How exactly is the system cutting off? Because our LVC cut off software version a64 is not a cut off. You loose throttle control but keep steering. If using older version software - the unit will shut off and reset itself (a hard reset - play the tune, lights flash, whole start up cycle). PM me with which issue you are having.
Deven - Jim sent me your video -- some things to check and try.
- on your radio - make your your EPA is set at 100 for throttle and brake no EXP
- when you hold the bottom down for the programming (in the video) thought it would be just a few more second before the calibration starts. BTW, if the unit doesn't calibrate it doesn't know its in neutral, so it wont turn off by the VPort, need to be in neutral.
- ---If holding it down longer doesn't make any effect. Check these steps:
- Make sure plug is in receiver in the correct direction - positive, negative, signal wire -- for your receiver
- make sure its in the correct slot for a speed control (typically Channel 2 or it will say THR or THL)
- If your radio has multiple models - try a different model
- On your transmitter - move your throttle trim forward about 3-4 clicks - then start calibration process (do not move the trim back), this moves neutral point in signal, so its clearer.
Another thing I like to do if anything is happening strange, is go back to basics. Take out the electronics and clean out the car, then put all the pieces back in - electronics are funny, sometimes they just want a little TLC.
PM me if you have any more questions.
- on your radio - make your your EPA is set at 100 for throttle and brake no EXP
- when you hold the bottom down for the programming (in the video) thought it would be just a few more second before the calibration starts. BTW, if the unit doesn't calibrate it doesn't know its in neutral, so it wont turn off by the VPort, need to be in neutral.
- ---If holding it down longer doesn't make any effect. Check these steps:
- Make sure plug is in receiver in the correct direction - positive, negative, signal wire -- for your receiver
- make sure its in the correct slot for a speed control (typically Channel 2 or it will say THR or THL)
- If your radio has multiple models - try a different model
- On your transmitter - move your throttle trim forward about 3-4 clicks - then start calibration process (do not move the trim back), this moves neutral point in signal, so its clearer.
Another thing I like to do if anything is happening strange, is go back to basics. Take out the electronics and clean out the car, then put all the pieces back in - electronics are funny, sometimes they just want a little TLC.
PM me if you have any more questions.
It's late now, I'll try all this in the morning. I understand how to do all these fixes work except the receiver wiring double check. Which colours on the ESC represent the positive, negative and signal wire?
(Also isnt the red one in the middle, figured that would be positive?)
I definitely held the button long enough in previous attempts before I took the video. And I have tried an uninstall/re-install of the electronics.
It's late now, I'll try all this in the morning. I understand how to do all these fixes work except the receiver wiring double check. Which colours on the ESC represent the positive, negative and signal wire?
(Also isnt the red one in the middle, figured that would be positive?)
It's late now, I'll try all this in the morning. I understand how to do all these fixes work except the receiver wiring double check. Which colours on the ESC represent the positive, negative and signal wire?
(Also isnt the red one in the middle, figured that would be positive?)
Hey guys, I got my Viper 10.5 and 17.5 motors. I plan next weekend to have these run in a 'mod' class, so boosting features, etc can be used.
Is there a recommended setting on the motors themselves for timing when doing this? these will be used in 1/10 2wd buggies.
Also, the 17.5 will be run sometimes in a blinky 17.5 class, any recommended starting points for timing there on the can?
Is there a recommended setting on the motors themselves for timing when doing this? these will be used in 1/10 2wd buggies.
Also, the 17.5 will be run sometimes in a blinky 17.5 class, any recommended starting points for timing there on the can?
Hey guys, I got my Viper 10.5 and 17.5 motors. I plan next weekend to have these run in a 'mod' class, so boosting features, etc can be used.
Is there a recommended setting on the motors themselves for timing when doing this? these will be used in 1/10 2wd buggies.
Also, the 17.5 will be run sometimes in a blinky 17.5 class, any recommended starting points for timing there on the can?
Is there a recommended setting on the motors themselves for timing when doing this? these will be used in 1/10 2wd buggies.
Also, the 17.5 will be run sometimes in a blinky 17.5 class, any recommended starting points for timing there on the can?
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 228
From: Really Southern Ca.
I have full steering, it starts to stutter, then stutters more until it will not go forward. I check the battery and it is fine. I put the battery in my Slash and ran for another 30 minutes or so.
When I changed the settings with the program card it said COMPLETED! Then I held the button down, it turned off then I turned it back on.
The gear train on the truck is fine. Runs well is smooth. I have a budget power setup in it now and it works without a problem.
Buzz.
When I changed the settings with the program card it said COMPLETED! Then I held the button down, it turned off then I turned it back on.
The gear train on the truck is fine. Runs well is smooth. I have a budget power setup in it now and it works without a problem.
Buzz.



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