Check out post 10590 and see if you aren't having a problem like that. If not, kill the power to the ESC, set both throttle and brake trims to 0 and both end points to 100%. Then rebind to your receiver. After a successful rebind, recalibrate to the ESC. Make sure you follow the instructions for the calibration and you should have success. Let us know if it works!

I have tried that, rebound the rx to the tx. And turned out off and back on. And still nothing.

I also bound the rx to another working ESC. And it works fine. The only thing I haven't done is take my 3prka and it's receiver, over to see if that will bind to the viper.

I'll let you know if that works

No - it is not. Its stated in the instructions as well. Too much power and RPM for 3s. Anytime you want to run more voltage from the battery, you need lower RPM/power from the motor, because of the voltage.

1) in the video, I didn't think you were holding the button down long enough to start the calibration process. I know the manual has 3 seconds, reality is that is probably like 10 seconds - ball park.

If the esc doesn't get a signal, it doesn't know what to do - so yes, turning it off could be an issue, its confused on the what input is happening.

Steps to try based on what you posted.

1) Use different model in your radio, if radio has multiple models - each model sends signal different
2) EPA set at 100 for throttle, 100 for brake
3) Verify all connections - ie plugs in receiver are proper, if reversed in the receiver - system will power on, but not accepts signal
4) Try calibration - if not successful, unplug battery, move throttle trim 4-5 clicks (forward or reverse) to reset radio neutral point. Try calibration again.

if you hold the button down to start the calibration process and can read this message with out it going into calibration mode - either there is an issue with the esc or with the radio signal. We would always be willing to look at a system to verify its working under the warranty rules and guidelines. We want you running on the track, street or yard - as much as you do.

I will defiantly try the different model suggestion. The Futaba 3pl has a 10 model memory.

I will also try the other suggestions as well.

If worse comes to worse and I need to send it in. Will I need to de-solder the motor from the ESC? I bought the vxt10 black edition 6.5t combo.

I own 5 Viper VTX10 Black Edition ESC. I need to buy another one and have been looking at the original VTX10 red edition. They have the same specs, in fact the red is lighter and waterproof. They do heave different capacitors. What I'm I missing? Why not buy the red version? It is cheaper.

nevermind found it.

Interesting, with it not being waterproof does that mean its easier to service and get repaired as I recall that is an issue why the VTX8s appear to be replace if something happens?

Buy the red. That is what I use and as far as I know you will see know difference unless you get the R version.

Brian

spec in the manual looks basically the same or better to the original version, so i am assuming that there is something more to it. hopefully nikos an chime in.

The new orange esc's have the same caps as the blacks.

I have a gearing question. I am running the 9.5T, 10x setup in my SC10.2FT. I have the punch set for 1. It is still pretty snappy in the corners. It was suggested by one of the guys at the track to change the gearing from the 84 spur 20 pinion to a 75 spur, 20 pinion. he said that will help smooth the torque out on the bottom end. It would give more top end, but less low end grunt.

I am worried about heat with the gearing change. Would this generate a lot more heat, a little more heat, or nothing to worry about? I am not getting high temps as it is. The on board telemetry says I am in the 120 to 130 degree range.

Buzz.

BEC is stronger, I think the FETs were different too. I forget the exact differences. I have one of each and they are both rock solid.

First I don't even know if you can fit 20-75. Second, by dropping 9 teeth in spur, you are essentially going up 3 teeth in pinion (so 23-84).

As far as I know, you ALWAYS want to run 84/87 range spurs with the SC10 platform unless you are running a spec motor (13.5, 17.5, etc).

If you need to smooth the power out, try profile 2, punch 50%, 16,000mhz pwm, and maybe do a -1 for expo (try that last). Make sure your slipper isn't too tight. It should slip for about the first 8-12 inches when you get on the throttle.

any ideas Bob why they went away from waterproofing the black edition escs?

Pure speculation but did they actually change a construction technique or did they simply stop claiming it is waterproof?

My guess...and this is pure speculation...is that they were getting too many warranty claims of units that got wet. By simply changing the verbiage from waterproof to water resistant you can not warranty as many units even if they are actually the same in terms of water proofness. In actuality both the VTX10 and the VTX10 BE are competition ESCs not really intended for someone to run through puddles or in their swimming pool in their slash to prove their truck is waterproof.