Viper RC -
so in the past, I never needed to tune my vtx10. It was really good right out of the box. Now I am running on a new track and I wonder if I could better gain from the viper PWM features. I am currently working on the brakes. With a broken progauge, this is a little more tedious. But, our current layout has like 6-7 180's and a few short run up jumps. So I need more bottom end. My understanding is that if i lower the pwm on the throttle I can gain some kick at the bottom. I could play with gear and such, but I wanna see to what extent I can tweak the esc to my liking. I tried Bob's seting and it was like driving a tekin for me. on/off switch. so that was a bit much. Something in between probably. What is really nice about the vipers, is that you can make it feel binary like a tekin or super smooth. Wide tuning range. The oval guys here like high PWM for a few extra RPM, and they dont need the low kick that we need in 17.5 buggy off road. My current tack has wheelie popping traction and can be very technical and you need instant power. If anyone has a good viper setup for 17.5 for this type of track, shoot me a PM.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
so in the past, I never needed to tune my vtx10. It was really good right out of the box. Now I am running on a new track and I wonder if I could better gain from the viper PWM features. I am currently working on the brakes. With a broken progauge, this is a little more tedious. But, our current layout has like 6-7 180's and a few short run up jumps. So I need more bottom end. My understanding is that if i lower the pwm on the throttle I can gain some kick at the bottom. I could play with gear and such, but I wanna see to what extent I can tweak the esc to my liking. I tried Bob's seting and it was like driving a tekin for me. on/off switch. so that was a bit much. Something in between probably. What is really nice about the vipers, is that you can make it feel binary like a tekin or super smooth. Wide tuning range. The oval guys here like high PWM for a few extra RPM, and they dont need the low kick that we need in 17.5 buggy off road. My current tack has wheelie popping traction and can be very technical and you need instant power. If anyone has a good viper setup for 17.5 for this type of track, shoot me a PM.
I haven't messed with baby car in a while. I bought my B5's and only ran the mid motor car 2 weekends... then went to 8th scale. I did toss it out on the track last Saturday at a big race and only ran the main. Finished 3rd with it

Oh and that was the B5M outside on an 8th scale track with the std OCRC indoor setup on it LOL. 9.5 was ripping wheelies
My settings were a64, profile 2. out of the box. no changes.I'm starting to really get somewhere with the power in our 8th scale line too... it was always fast, but now I'm working on making it ridiculously fast (and effecient!). When I am comfortable with the setup, I'll share it here.
Tech Rookie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 8
Hello,
I am having some issues with my vxt10 black edition 6.5t combo with ez-link.
Some how I always screw up radio calibration. When I finally got it working with my new Futaba 3PL. Neutral wad full throttle and brake was full reverse.
While this was going on, the function was hit or miss. I would have to go from full trigger to full reverse very fast in order for it to kick in.
Well since that calibration was incorrect, I tried to do it again. With holding down the button to get it to chime again.
Now the only light that comes on after I push the button to turn it on, is the red LED, indicating power. No other lights are on.
I am having some issues with my vxt10 black edition 6.5t combo with ez-link.
Some how I always screw up radio calibration. When I finally got it working with my new Futaba 3PL. Neutral wad full throttle and brake was full reverse.
While this was going on, the function was hit or miss. I would have to go from full trigger to full reverse very fast in order for it to kick in.
Well since that calibration was incorrect, I tried to do it again. With holding down the button to get it to chime again.
Now the only light that comes on after I push the button to turn it on, is the red LED, indicating power. No other lights are on.
Tech Rookie
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 8
Here is what I have done in order to try and get it working again.
I have used another receiver to try and get it to recognize it needs a new calibration. Did not work. Red LED on only.
Used multiple batteries. To see if voltage had something to do with it. Still only red LED on.
Tried the 3PL again didn't work. Still only red LED on only.
Also the whole time this is happening. I cannot turn it off. I have to physically unplug the battery and I always have had servo control.
I really want to get to the bottom of this.
Please help.
I have used another receiver to try and get it to recognize it needs a new calibration. Did not work. Red LED on only.
Used multiple batteries. To see if voltage had something to do with it. Still only red LED on.
Tried the 3PL again didn't work. Still only red LED on only.
Also the whole time this is happening. I cannot turn it off. I have to physically unplug the battery and I always have had servo control.
I really want to get to the bottom of this.
Please help.
It seems like it is not seeing your radio. You have a friend with an airtronics to try and calibrate? Do you have a pc link? When in doubt I like to reflash the esc. But a single red led implies to me that it does not see your radio. I assume you have no steering. That only confirms for me that it is not seeing your radio. Make sure you esc is correctly plugged into the receiver. I have done it backwards and had the red led issue
It wont power off if does not find neutral. At least it was that way with a55. I had my trims off once and it would not power off. Once I fixed the trims it was good



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