I'm thinking of giving Viper RC another go. I had the VTX10R when it first came out and never got it out to the track because the esc failed on me twice after setup and I ended up selling my second replacement esc. I like the super compact size of the VTX10R BE and want to one for my new Serpent Spyder SRX-2 MM. Hopefully I'll have better luck this time.

I'm out of the loop regarding Viper RC products and was wondering if my old Pro Gauge is compatible with this esc? What's the difference between the Pro Gauge and EZ Link?

Can you recommend a good esc setup with a 7.5t motor using a 78t spur?

Thanks.

Yes the pro gauge from your vtx10r can be used with a vtx10rbe. Pro gauge allows you to make adjustments at the track where a EZ link is for your computer that also allows you to do adjustments but mainly for software update/downloads.

Well, I am now down to:

35% punch
9600 throttle pwm
Air holes AND internal flaps to guide the air to the motor
Fan alongside the motor
2 teeth lower than original pinion (still looking for the final drive ratio on the space, sworkz 4wd buggy)
Brake strength about 80
5000 brake pwm
Race blinky mode
20 degree (minimum) motor timing

And I am still finishing at 6mins at 175 on case and 190 internal! That's in a building at 60 degree ambient temperature.

Drivetrain is free (not the best but not binding), mesh is fine.

It is also still a rocket on acceleration (top end is only so so with the smaller pinion), but I daren't drop even more punch because it is pretty dead at very low revs now (huge power in the middle).

Don't get me wrong guys, I don't think the "problem" is the esc at all, it's just the esc is the thing with lots of settings to try and help haha!

So unless I am missing something I am pretty much out of things to try to cool it. So dumb question but should a 7.5 run cooler or hotter!? I can live with the lower power output if I can keep top end!? Does any brand motor have a good rep for running cool?

Having said all above, I did win our club race tonight so that's something!

EZ links don't connect to your computer. You're thinking of the PC Link

Did you ever try a different motor of the same brand? Or another motor altogether?

I did some research and it seems 6.5T with the sWorks buggy should be 21 tooth pinion for a start. What are you at now?

I would turn that punch up to 100% and turn the PWM as high as you can (16k on a55 software). set timing at 30 deg on the motor, blinky mode on the ESC.

Also heatsink fans work much better than just fans. I learned that last year in E Buggy.

Something like this may help you a ton. The 8th scale version dropped our temps by over 30 deg!

https://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?...685&p_catid=28

Hi Bob,

Started at 22 pinion as the guys in Europe said they were using 21 but on very tight tracks and only getting 130 degrees. I went to 21 to reduce heat and it made no difference, so I then lowered punch and forward power, still no temp reduction. So now I have gone 20 pinion and lower punch again as well as reducing motor timing and adding a fan! I had been at 12000 Pwm until the last run but reduced it in case it was somehow too high.

I will go back to 21 and Max out Pwm just because ignoring temps that felt like the right gearing in track, I'll probably add the heat sink fan too...but something somewhere is off, the motor isn't smoked as it retains power and has never smelt burnt! Given it's giving more power than I need should a 7.5 run cooler with slightly lower power?

.

Dave - Its a little strange that you did a bunch of steps and the temperature didn't go down much at all. Verify a couple of things.

- Your in Race Blinky Mode (Misc menu, Run Mode)
- Don't go over 16k for throttle Freq.
- If everything was still fast (you won the race) with 35 punch - lower the physical timing on the motor by 10 degrees.

I would also try the 7.5 just to verify that its not just the motor that gets hot.

Finally, do you feel you are at full throttle all the time? Like you are constantly at 100% on the trigger? If you are, you might be undergeared, and that will also cause heat because motor runs at maximum all the time. Tracks are different, its hard to say because someone uses a certain gear in Europe, its the same on my track (unless its the same track).

Don't know the Serpent internal ration - but on the esc I would just start with the Modified no boost profile. Throttle Freq 12k-16k, set Punch to help control wheelspin, set Brakes how you like the feel. Have fun!!!

I have looked all over trying to find what the ratio is on an Sworks to kinda compare it to other cars gearing. They do not make it easy to find.

Yes the lack of response to change is odd, I think I am going to dump in my spare Reedy 6.5 on more normal settings (per Bobs note) and see what that gives temps wise!

Appreciate all the help everyone!

Dave, im running the same esc as you and as you know the same car, but im running a 5.5t and my esc and motor run fairly cool. I have to believe there is something going on with the motor.....

Have you pulled your motor apart and checked it? I wonder if maybe there is a small rub somewhere on the rotor from it dragging.

The diff ratio is 17/42