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Old 02-02-2014 | 09:05 PM
  #9826  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
high speed mode on ch2. turn it off.
Ill give that a try, what is that doing to cause these issues? That setting can be found through the program box correct?

Thanks!
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Old 02-02-2014 | 09:15 PM
  #9827  
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No, that's on your radio TX.
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Old 02-02-2014 | 09:57 PM
  #9828  
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This is for channel two on your radio, not in the ESC.
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Old 02-02-2014 | 10:08 PM
  #9829  
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high speed mode on the radio is intended for servos. Channel 2 would be for a throttle servo. Since you are using channel 2 for the ESC, you don't need it on high speed mode.

In the past, I have found that many radios when in high speed mode cause issues. They MAY mimic a bad sensor wire. It's a simple way to check. Just turn it off without changing anything else and see if it goes away
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Old 02-03-2014 | 11:41 AM
  #9830  
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I have a Futaba Super R, I will give that a try tonight
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Old 02-03-2014 | 03:53 PM
  #9831  
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Guys, shoul reducing punch reduce motor temps? Or reducing forward power, brakes etc?
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Old 02-03-2014 | 04:00 PM
  #9832  
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Originally Posted by nikos2002
Barge - get the spot you are trying to solder hot with the tip first, then feed in some solder to get it all flowing.
I did this and the new solder flows great but the stock solder still seems to have a firm grip on the wire... doesn't even get loose.

I'm worried I'm going to burn the thing up. I love my Viper stuff but I need to figure this out or each ESC I have is gonna be stuck with 1 vehicle.
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Old 02-03-2014 | 04:38 PM
  #9833  
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Originally Posted by Barge
I did this and the new solder flows great but the stock solder still seems to have a firm grip on the wire... doesn't even get loose.

I'm worried I'm going to burn the thing up. I love my Viper stuff but I need to figure this out or each ESC I have is gonna be stuck with 1 vehicle.
I use a Trakpower 950 and to desolder the factory wires I turn it up to 800. I use liquid flux and help it with some more solder. The factory does a great job making sure that the wires are soldered on.

You do not want to hold the soldering iron on the ESC for too long. You will transfer too much heat and damage it.

I will do a video to show how it is done when I can.
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Old 02-03-2014 | 04:44 PM
  #9834  
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Originally Posted by Jim Hustins
I use a Trakpower 950 and to desolder the factory wires I turn it up to 800. I use liquid flux and help it with some more solder. The factory does a great job making sure that the wires are soldered on.

You do not want to hold the soldering iron on the ESC for too long. You will transfer too much heat and damage it.

I will do a video to show how it is done when I can.
Holy cow that's hot. I normally solder at like 650.

I tried a bit hotter but it didn't make a difference. I really don't think I'm doing anything wrong from a technique standpoint. My bullet connectors, motors, etc all go fine.

Nikos, do you know what kind of solder is used in the factory? Is it a lead free or something with a higher melting point?
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Old 02-03-2014 | 05:07 PM
  #9835  
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Originally Posted by Barge
Holy cow that's hot. I normally solder at like 650.

I tried a bit hotter but it didn't make a difference. I really don't think I'm doing anything wrong from a technique standpoint. My bullet connectors, motors, etc all go fine.

Nikos, do you know what kind of solder is used in the factory? Is it a lead free or something with a higher melting point?
I only go that high when doing the ESC wires. I tried at a lower temp and it did not work.
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Old 02-03-2014 | 05:15 PM
  #9836  
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Seems like you can get the top surface to melt at lower temps but in order to get all the way down to the solder lug it needs to be a bit hotter. Whoever they have doing their soldering is a stud muffin.
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Old 02-03-2014 | 05:17 PM
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Well that's good to know that people have been doing it and haven't destroyed the thing.

I got it to work pretty well with the stock wires now but I've got one I need to rewire at home.
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Old 02-03-2014 | 05:25 PM
  #9838  
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So I ran my Vtx10/7.5 for the first time in my B44.2 this weekend. It worked great, but it seemed to be lacking some punch. For example, I couldn't make the double/ triple rythm section at my Track. I could hit the double, but going into the triple I was casing the top of the last jump cuz the rip I needed wasn't There. The speed on the straight was impressive and the brakes worked Great, I just need a little more Punch. Any suggestions? P.s. running profile#2 and haven't touched the Ez link
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Old 02-03-2014 | 05:30 PM
  #9839  
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Originally Posted by timaay!!
So I ran my Vtx10/7.5 for the first time in my B44.2 this weekend. It worked great, but it seemed to be lacking some punch. For example, I couldn't make the double/ triple rythm section at my Track. I could hit the double, but going into the triple I was casing the top of the last jump cuz the rip I needed wasn't There. The speed on the straight was impressive and the brakes worked Great, I just need a little more Punch. Any suggestions? P.s. running profile#2 and haven't touched the Ez link
Work on turning up the punch control and turning down Throttle PWM Frequency on the ESC. Stock for Profile #2 is 60 with Throttle PWM at 1600. I had the same issue with my Schumacher CAT K1 this weekend with a VTX10R and VST 8.5 (first outing with the car) but was able to correct it by going up to 80 on Punch Control and turning the Throttle PWM Frequency down to 9600, though 8000 would probably be even better.
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Old 02-03-2014 | 07:46 PM
  #9840  
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Originally Posted by bdyche
Work on turning up the punch control and turning down Throttle PWM Frequency on the ESC. Stock for Profile #2 is 60 with Throttle PWM at 1600. I had the same issue with my Schumacher CAT K1 this weekend with a VTX10R and VST 8.5 (first outing with the car) but was able to correct it by going up to 80 on Punch Control and turning the Throttle PWM Frequency down to 9600, though 8000 would probably be even better.
Great thanks, I'll try it out this weekend!
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