In short, no.

We are always testing and developing new software and products. When it's ready for the public, we release all the details.

Jim, forgot to ask. what's a good green area to be in for motor temps, 120-140?

I have tried a range of different throttle frequencies. Haven't noticed a difference in temps from 6000 all the way to 12000. I think my esc's are all running the older software too cause I don't have control over the temp cut off. I've only had it shut down on my twice for temps.

Wow, I don't remember a firmware rev that didn't have control over the temp shut offs. Do you have anyone local with a Viper PC Link that you could have update your firmware with?

make sure that when you are changing settings you go and save the change, otherwise the changes you made don't go into affect.

hook up your progage and link it to the esc. It will tell you what firmware you are running. You should be on a55.

If you purchased your Viper VTX10 series esc (VTX1, 10, 10R or BE's) after July 2012, they have a55 in them. At the time we even recalled speed controls from A Main and distributors, just to put the latest software in them.

Common ProGauge/EZ Link mistakes
- not going back to the start screen and choosing the Save option after changes.
- after changes are made, hitting ESC, instead of OK, to go back -- this will actually not register the change you made
- having the plug from the VPort to the card plugged in backwards, getting failed error on card when trying to connect.

Hope that helps everyone little more....

Is it safe to assume that the VTX8 is not able to be bolted into a chassis even though it comes with a template for the bolt pattern? Reason I ask is that I have my new chassis drilled for the bolt in application, but there is nothing but silicone inside so I am getting no grab from the screws.

when will these be back in stock
Viper R/C VF8 1900kV

Yes, that would be the safe range. Keeping your motors around those temps will make them last a long time.

Gary - I know there are some cars out there designed for it (which is why we did the template). But it my understand the screws you use are important - they need to grab on the metal bottom plate. Even them I would still use double sided tape or a silicone (like shoe goo) to help hold it. I put a square of double sided tape in the middle and then shoe goo around the outer edge and have not had an issue with it coming out in 1/8 or 4wd SC.

Motorman -- soon!!! We were expecting delivery this week, looks like it didn't clear customs, so look for next week.

Hi all,

Looking for ways to reduce motor temps using my vtx10be-r...I am hitting somewhere up at 200 on 5 minute winter runs, and that's with good gearing (super high grip track though).

So what will work:

1. Freq (at 12000)?
2. Punch?
3. Just dropping power below 100?

Anything else?

And yes have checked the obvious stuff like drivetrain being free etc...

is the motor temping at 200 with a temp gun on it? or is the ESC shutting it down?
the temp cutoff for the motor should be set round 220 to 240, since it is internal reading.

I know this has been addressed before but I've got a Hakko 888 soldering station with a 5.2mm tip and I'm trying to unsolder the stock power wires so I can lay them down a bit more.

I'm not even really putting a dent in the stock solder at 675deg for 10sec with a freshly tinned clean tip.

I'm kind of worried I'm gonna do some dmg if I put much more heat into it. Is there some black magic to get them unsoldered or do I just blast it with heat and pray for the best?

The motor I use has an led to warn you of barious internal temperatures..I don't trust cut off though.

I am just looking for ways to ease motor tempts using the esc settings!?